In my line of work, the faster you work, the more money in your pocket. Less work = more money. LOL
The racks usually come centered and I hold the steering wheel centered by the seatbelt. Minor adjustments are made with the tie rods.
I'm about to fix my front brakes, what else should I do?
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In my line of work, the faster you work, the more money in your pocket. Less work = more money. LOL
The racks usually come centered and I hold the steering wheel centered by the seatbelt. Minor adjustments are made with the tie rods.
I am sorry but I still don't get it. I used to be a master tech for a European car maker, admittedly I was on a salary not on a bonus so speed wasn't my main concern, also the whole column assembly normally has to be removed due to it being bolted direct to the rack without an intermediate shaft as the cars are smaller, but I still found it easier to put the wheel back on straight after. A bit of fine tuning with the tie rod ends and its job done. Each to there own though, there isn't one correct way. I have a bit of interest in this as I am going to change the complete rack on mine in the next year due to bushings and a slight leak so have been gathering advise, even though mine is RHD.
OK please excuse me as I am learning this all. What exact is this rotary switch or spiral cable for?(airbag)? I assume this cable runs from the steering rack through the intermediate steering shaft to the steering wheel. On my 4runner when I replaced steering rack bushings and tie rods I
wrapped the seat belt around the steering
wheel and moved the seat back. At some
point I am sure I will need to tackle this and
a new intermediate steering shaft as mine
is starting to rust. @Mike6158 How much was the rack and where did you get it?
wrapped the seat belt around the steering
wheel and moved the seat back. At some
point I am sure I will need to tackle this and
a new intermediate steering shaft as mine
is starting to rust. @Mike6158 How much was the rack and where did you get it?
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There's two ways one could make electrical contact for things that turn. Either circular traces (usually for things that continuously rotate, like for a radar dish) or a wire mechanism that allow for the wire to wind up or out depending on the direction of rotation (for things that only turn so far then go back the other way). For the LC/LX the latter is used and it's hooked up to the combination switch mechanism housings that hold the light and wiper stalks. I don't have a pic on hand, but if you look for part Toyota part 84306-60050 some sites will have a photo you can reference.
Although I haven't done rack bushing on a 100, I am an experienced tech.
-the spiral cable (clock spring) is just behind the steering wheel and is the electrical connection from the column to the steering wheel (for horn and airbag).
-if the clock spring is turned past the steering locks it can break. If you remove your steering shaft, you have no steering locks so there's the risk. Normally I would just use a strap or anything that works to stop the steering wheel from turning while you do your work
-if you're replacing tie rods ends you will need a wheel alignment so I wouldn't worry about centering the wheel. Just make sure you mark the steering shaft and the rack so that they go back together the same way. The shaft may have a master spline but just to be safe.
-the spiral cable (clock spring) is just behind the steering wheel and is the electrical connection from the column to the steering wheel (for horn and airbag).
-if the clock spring is turned past the steering locks it can break. If you remove your steering shaft, you have no steering locks so there's the risk. Normally I would just use a strap or anything that works to stop the steering wheel from turning while you do your work
-if you're replacing tie rods ends you will need a wheel alignment so I wouldn't worry about centering the wheel. Just make sure you mark the steering shaft and the rack so that they go back together the same way. The shaft may have a master spline but just to be safe.
Didn't remove the steering wheel when I did mine and cannot see any reason to. Use a ratchet strap as suggested, if you're worried. The brakes and steering rack are not related work-wise. i.e. except for removing the tires, theres's no time saving benefits to doing both at once.
For the rack, I would recommend removing the oil cooler at filter per the FSM. Even jacking the DS motor up 1.5" doesn't lessen the PITA much - with this still in place. For both removal & install.
Recommend a 17mm 12 pt flare nut crowsfoot with a flex head ratchet for one pressure line and the KD puller for TRE's. It's an ugly job solo. If you survive - you will love your 80 more than anything on earth, if you still have it. And just wait for the timing belt, exhaust manifolds and ball joints (doing mine now). You will never appreciate the simplicity of an 80 more until you work on a 100. They suck to wrench on.
Good luck.
For the rack, I would recommend removing the oil cooler at filter per the FSM. Even jacking the DS motor up 1.5" doesn't lessen the PITA much - with this still in place. For both removal & install.
Recommend a 17mm 12 pt flare nut crowsfoot with a flex head ratchet for one pressure line and the KD puller for TRE's. It's an ugly job solo. If you survive - you will love your 80 more than anything on earth, if you still have it. And just wait for the timing belt, exhaust manifolds and ball joints (doing mine now). You will never appreciate the simplicity of an 80 more until you work on a 100. They suck to wrench on.
Good luck.
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