I'm about to fix my front brakes, what else should I do?

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Mike6158

Mike6158

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10 Year
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
987
Location
Weimar, TX
Website
wildlightimagingstudio.com
2000 LC about 178k on the clock

I've got to fix my front brakes so I can get my LC inspected this month. Well... that and the fact that the left front pads have failed and it's now metal on metal. I have to replace one rotor so I decided to buy both front rotors and new pads.

Obviously the left front failed first because I brake with my left foot more than my right foot :rimshot:

With that in mind

I have new axles, new seals, new rack and pinion bushings, and a new rack and pinion. I've been putting off the rack and pinion / axle swap because the procedure outlined in the repair manual sucks. The repair manual says

"NOTICE: Remove the steering wheel assembly before the steering gear removal, because, there is a possibility of breaking of the spiral cable."

:cool::steer:I don't want to remove my steering wheel assemble for any reason... ever... You can ask why and the only reason you'll get is that I don't want to. I think it's a s***ty design if you have to remove the steering wheel assembly just to replace the rack and pinion. And I don't believe it's necessary...

If I'm not mistaken I don't have to pull the hubs to install new rotors. But, I need to repack the wheel bearings so I may as well do that while the tires are off.

Since the hubs are going to be off, does it make sense to replace the axles? I already have them. The boots on the CV joints are ripped to shreds and probably have been for a while. So rather than mess with the CV joint replacement thing I just bought the axle assembly.

If I'm going to pull the axles anyway... does it make sense to also tackle the rack and pinion and R&P bushing replacement as well (assuming the manual is full of crap and I don't really have to pull the steering wheel assembly)?

Feel free to opine...
 
I would try and do it all at the same time, I have read somewhere on here that the steering rack was a lot easier with the front diff dropped out, with the cv axles removed then it isn't much more work to drop the diff, just a thought. I have a RHD and the rack looks a lot easier than the LHD version so it's just an idea from what I have read, maybe someone can confirm this to be worth the extra effort.

Just tie the wheel in place if you don't want to remove it so it doesn't spin and snap the cable.

You might want to ignore everything I said about the diff as if you don't want to remove the steering wheel then you probably wouldn't want to remove the front diff.
 
Julian Stead said:
You might want to ignore everything I said about the diff as if you don't want to remove the steering wheel then you probably wouldn't want to remove the front diff.
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Removing the diff isn't a concern. I've swapped engines, tranny's, and rear ends in a '69 Camaro many times in the past, so mechanically speaking pulling the diff is no big deal. Maybe when I get into it removing the steering assembly just to install a rack and pinion will make sense. Right now it doesn't...
 
Sorry, I didn't mean that you wasn't capable, just that you didn't want to do more work than you need to. I do understand why they have to warn you about the rotary switch as I almost snapped mine when I removed the steering column, but as long as you are aware of it and take precautions so that the wheel goes back in the right position and doesn't cause breakage when turned then it isn't an issue. Personally for the sake of 3 bolts I would remove it though.
 
Julian Stead said:
Personally for the sake of 3 bolts I would remove it though.
Click to expand...

?? I don't see how it's only 3 bolts. SR-12 says to remove the pad and airbag and then use a steering wheel puller, that I don't own, to pull the steering wheel. Then it goes on with removing upper and lower covers and a bunch of other stuff, including the spiral cable.
 
I'm going to try to upload a PDF of SR-50 and SR-12 so everyone can see what I'm seeing.
 

Attachments

Two bolts that hold the airbag on and one which holds the steering wheel. You don't need a puller just pull by hand on opposite sides of the wheel and it will pop off. When the wheel is removed the spiral cable is disconnected from the column so if the column spins the cable doesn't. On refit make sure road wheels are straight, the rotary switch(spiral cable)is centred, then fit the steering wheel straight ahead and your good to go.

Mine is a 98 with no steering wheel controls so yours might be different.
 
I uploaded the manual for mine. It's just above your post. It goes a lot farther than just pulling the wheel. Page 1 and 2 are for the rack. PAge 3 and 4 are for what needs to happen for the wheel.
 
Oh, so it's just the steering wheel then? I took page one to mean follow the procedure in SR-12... which is for pulling the entire column... and that made no sense. If all that is required is to pull the wheel then yep... that's a no brainer...

I went back and read it again... you're right, it says remove the wheel... not the column... well hell... :) that makes a lot of difference

Thanks for hanging in there...
 
You could use the steering lock to hold the wheel, but the shaft for the steering lock is weak and is easily snapped. Ask me how I know :bang:, this why I ended up removing the column to replace this. So another precaution is when working on the steering make sure the lock is off as it it is a weak point.
 
Oh man... that would be a bummer. So basically, unlock column, pull the wheel, work.

I guess the battery should be disconnected too? Or can I unlock the wheel without turning on the accessory position?
 
Ok good, that makes sense. I don't want the air bag to pop while I'm taking it out. That would not be healthy
 
Why are you messing the the steering wheel again?

And the hub has to come off to remove the rotors which are bolts to them. Yes repack the bearings. Make sure you buy the seal for the back of the hub when you remove it for the inner bearings.
 
ton504 said:
Why are you messing the the steering wheel again?

And the hub has to come off to remove the rotors which are bolts to them. Yes repack the bearings. Make sure you buy the seal for the back of the hub when you remove it for the inner bearings.
Click to expand...

Read post #6. I uploaded the section of the Repair Manual (Toyota) that pertains to replacing the rack and pinion. According to Toyota the steering wheel has to come off...

I have the seal. I haven't got that fa, I was hoping that the rotors unbolted from the wheel side but all things considered, it works out fine since I need to repack bearings, replace the seal, install the new axle assemblies anyway. I've been putting this off but when the brake pad failed it kind of forced the repair
 
Mike6158 said:
Read post #6. I uploaded the section of the Repair Manual (Toyota) that pertains to replacing the rack and pinion. According to Toyota the steering wheel has to come off...

I have the seal. I haven't got that fa, I was hoping that the rotors unbolted from the wheel side but all things considered, it works out fine since I need to repack bearings, replace the seal, install the new axle assemblies anyway. I've been putting this off but when the brake pad failed it kind of forced the repair
Click to expand...

I would skip that part of the manual. Ive done the steering rack bushings with my diff and everything else intact except for the belly pans. And I'm sure most guys on here did it the same way.

A tip on the axle, remove the hub/rotor assy first. Loosen the upper ball joint nut and give it a good smack on the flat part of the carrier. They should separate. Pry the axle from the diff end and let the carrier tilt outwards with a bungee cord. After axle clears the diff, point that end downwards and then pull axle out from carrier when going downwards towards the middle of vehicle. Everyone has their ways but that how I do it.
 
ton504 said:
would skip that part of the manual. Ive done the steering rack bushings with my diff and everything else intact except for the belly pans. And I'm sure most guys on here did it the same way.
Click to expand...

Why would you ignore it, you will probably end up removing the steering wheel to realign it anyway, as he is changing the rack and pinion you would lose your matchmarks. It is easier just to put the steering wheel back on straight after getting the wheels facing forward, or isn't it multi splined at the steering rack.
 
ton504 said:
I would skip that part of the manual. Ive done the steering rack bushings with my diff and everything else intact except for the belly pans. And I'm sure most guys on here did it the same way.

A tip on the axle, remove the hub/rotor assy first. Loosen the upper ball joint nut and give it a good smack on the flat part of the carrier. They should separate. Pry the axle from the diff end and let the carrier tilt outwards with a bungee cord. After axle clears the diff, point that end downwards and then pull axle out from carrier when going downwards towards the middle of vehicle. Everyone has their ways but that how I do it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the axle tip.

I'm replacing the rack and pinion and bushings. Not just bushings. And tie rod ends... I'm pretty sure i have tie rod ends too.
 
Mike6158 said:
Thanks for the axle tip.

I'm replacing the rack and pinion and bushings. Not just bushings. And tie rod ends... I'm pretty sure i have tie rod ends too.
Click to expand...

I still would not remove the wheel. I'll wrap the the seatbelt around the wheel to lock it in so it would not accidentally turn while you're down there. Its been a while since I did one of those but I used to do the RX racks all day until they came our with the overhaul kits.
 
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