IH8bleeding brakes... (1 Viewer)

Joined
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will the air bubbles ever leave??? huh, will they? :mad:

rr
lr
rf
lf

Is the order of bleeding? correct?

The freakin pedal is Mr. Mush..

and the damn truck is still pulling to the right during braking, so that would leave the rear brakes to either re-place or adjust. argghh, even though i did that about 6,000 miles ago.


one of those days I guess... :rolleyes:
 
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I hear you man. I think you want to do the drivers side rear 1st. The theory is to do the farthest from the master cyl 1st.

What bleeding method are you using? One man or 2?

When I replaced my MC and one rear wheel cylinder last weekend I got it pretty good on my own. Just cracked open the bleeder and put on a hose which goes into a jar 1/2 full of brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal a few times, check the fluid lever, then pump it a few more times. I bled all 4 sides on my own (and also managed to spill a jar of nasty brake fluid on myself...blech..) and have a solid pedal. I'm gonna have someone help me do a final bleed.
 
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I've heard of people doing a gravity bleed. No personal experience but I think you just crack open all 4 bleeders and let gravity take the air bubbles. The guy at Napa told me to just crack them open and come back an hour later.
 
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The longest hose goes to the lr I think and then go to next shortest..I have not tried my vacuum hand pump to bleed the brakes but it was like $30.Suppose to work good.

lr
rr
lf
rf
 
Joined
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I was doing the one man approach.. I had a spungy pedal before hand and now it has not improved with new calipers,pads, and lines, next would be the rear brakes but they were done 6,000 miles ago...

I'll try agian later today...thanks for the info on the brake bleed.

I was doing the hose in the jar of brake fluid method.

I think somthing is up in my system...just have yet to find out whats wrong.
 
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I was quoted by two shops 90 bucks for bleeding them, i never EVER take my truck to any shops to have work done and that was a quick reminder why I dont.
 
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Get a one man bleeder from you local parts store. They are actually called that. I use one and it is the cheapest tool in my box and it works great they run like 7.00 or so.
 
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Instead of just bleeding you may want to flush the system And start with all new fluid. An often overlooked maintenance job. Also how old are your hoses. You could have a great case of capilliary action{when the inside of the hose collapses} going on there.
 
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Jul 13, 2003
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AFAIK the cheapest bleeding method that works everytime requires two people.
One person gets a leg workout, the other gets dirty.

"Tools" required:
2 ft of clear plastic tubing - sized to fit over a brake bleed valve.
1 clear container - plastic water bottle works great.
10mm wrench
An assistant with a strong leg

I do it like this:

Slip tubing over bleed valve.
(End of tube hangs into a jar to collect old brake fluid.)
Loosen bleed valve 1/2 turn.
Tell assnt to depress pedal.
Watch fluid flow into jar.
Tighten bleed valve.
Tell assnt to release pedal.
Repeat until you don't see anymore bubbles.
Repeat another 5 times just to be safe.
Move on to next brake.

Since they are brakes, and fluid is cheap, I do all four brakes (in order posted above) once, then do all four again just to be safe.

Oh, the 60 has no LPSV.
 
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
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What condition is your master cylinder in? Sounds to me like that is first place i would check, and i would go through and check all connections from front to back in case you have a small air leak somewhere along the line. Its amazing what a piece of grit in the wrong place can do.
 
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lowtideride said:
and the damn truck is still pulling to the right during braking, so that would leave the rear brakes to either re-place or adjust. argghh, even though i did that about 6,000 miles ago.


one of those days I guess... :rolleyes:
Maybe your rears do need adjusting(stock drums?)
Sand can wear those out real quick.
They can cause excessive pedal travel to contact.
Also, if you have the bleeder open too far air can enter at the threads and appear like it's coming from the system.
As far as pulling I'd check for a stuck piston somewhere.

HTH
 

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