IFS Upgrade
- Thread starter Taildragon
- Start date
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First I'll say that I have run a 4runner with a 22re + stock suspension and no added front weight with: stock bars, 25mm and 26mm bars. On the trail the stock bars rule and are well suited for a daily driver. The 25mm bars improve the street handeling and high speed control without making the daily ride to ruff. However due to the stiff spring rate they will lose about 2" of compression on the trail, especially when the front suspension is unloaded. They will compress close to the stock bars when the suspension is loaded. The 26mm bars are just not pratical on the street or the trail. I would extrapolate that a 3vze truck with an added bumper/winch would best benefit from the 25mm bars. The 26mm bars could be tried, but probably would still be on the stiff/ruff side. If there is a TON of weight on the front of the truck and you do high speed trails, then the 26mm bars are for you but thats the only practical implementation of these bars. I run angled upper arms on my truck and have used stock bars, 25mm and now 23.5mm bars. Even with the extra arch leverage of the arms on the 25mm bars, there was a loss of wheel travel ease.
A huge misconception many people have is that larger torsion bars are some form of "upgrade" for the '86-'95 trucks/4runners. The main issue with larger bars is the HUGE increase in spring rate. 25mm bars have anywhere from 55-65% increased spring rate and the 26mm bars have over an 80% increase. Keep in mind that the diameter of the bar is not the only factor in its' spring rate. The alloy of the metal also effects the spring rate. This is to properly set ride hight with proper spring pre-load, which cannot be done just by bar size. A prime example is the stock bars, which are all 22.8mm but have increased spring rates to account for a 3vze motor, 4runner, 2wd or 4wd and yet they all have the same pre-load and ride hight. Also depending on suspension design, torsion bars don't just twist in a straight line, angled arms will not only twist but arch the bars.
The stock torsion bars are 22.8mm in size, aftermarket bars run 26mm, 25mm, 24mm and 23.5mm. 24mm bars seem to have fallen off the market and only Old Man Emu makes the 23.5mm bars. 25mm is the most common now in brands such as Rancho or Sway-Away. Downey's are only available in 26mm's and I think Rancho has a 26mm bar.
Don't get me wrong, I think going with a larger bar is a good "overall" improvement but it hurts upward wheel travel. If you run stock arms, the 23.5mm OME bars should be the main bars to consider but stay far far away from any 26mm bars.
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i have a 85' as well so i dont need another SFA rig, i have the OME torsions and they work good but still are pretty stiff-
Did you not get what I just said about larger bars or what?? IMO Downey if full of chit anymore, they build fine stuff but tout it like it's the greatest when it is not.
Forged or not you obviously don't understand metal work. Cast steel can be made to be just as STRONG as forged. HOWEVER cast steel becomes more BRITTLE than it's forged counter part. If you can snap a cast torsion bar before you break the splines at the ends you deserve an award!
Downey's head is in there ass with torsion bars for several reasons:
1. Yes forged bars are the "overbuilt" version but the stock arm mount will break in the splines before the bar ever snaps. -- It's a wast.
2. Larger bars are a good choice if you go racing and have more weight up front, but again you'll break other stuff before you'll ever need those larger, stronger bars. -- There is a reason every racer uses coilovers and NOT torsion bars.
3. Most people want a little more spring rate over the stock bars, while retaining full compression and 26mm bars are NOT the way to achieve this.
There just is not a practical application for 26mm torsion bars.
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Next to impossible and you will not find anyone in this small sample of people who have. In a roll, the anchor mount bolt pulled through the bottom of the frame in my truck with no broken bar. Also it's been common for guys to break the splines at the a-arm mount, especially if they haven't been greased or live in the rust belt; high speed bumps don't help either.