Idle Advice

[chud thunderson]

My FJ60 is having a hard time starting lately and idle's at a low RPM unless I have the choke out. During the winter I thought it was just because of the cold start but now with it being Spring and 70 degrees in the morning when I start it I still have the same issues. I usually pump the gas pedal twice then pull the choke out completely and start. The engine (stock 2F with 88k) starts right up then immediately stalls every first start but with a second attempt stays running. I've now started to give it alot of gas before it stalls and it keeps it running. It sits only for about 8 to 10 hours between starts. My commute is limited between 7-10 miles daily.
Should I always have to be using the choke to start?
After work its really warm outside and I have to use the choke then too or it will idle really low and buck in second. After the engine is warm there are no issues. There is some knocking occasionally in third gear on a steep grade, when the RPM seems high enough to shift out of second.
I've also noticed when sitting idling at a traffic light the battery charge gage bouncing up and down a little.
Does anyone know if this is a single issue or several different problems?
I had the cracked exhaust manifold replaced last year and it has been running great since.
Any info will help.

 

[tcb76cruzr]

I am having the exact same problems, it takes up to 3 times to start with choke pulled out. It will start right up and then die. Mine actually stalled yesterday and it was 80 degrees. If I am store hoping and I jump in and start after 10 minutes it runs real poor, I have to drive it with the choke slightly out just to get a idle. Does your carb cooling fan work?

 

[chud thunderson]

Is that the fan that runs after I shut the car off?
The mechanic I've been talking to also mentioned that he thought it could be the carb fan.
He hasn't looked at it yet because I don't know if I want to let him touch it.
I've only owned my cruiser for a year and a half and have done all the little stuff myself.
Just hoping its a small adjustment.

 

[tcb76cruzr]

Yes, that is the fan that turns on when you turn the truck off after driving a while. It should run for 10-15 minutes to cool the carburetor. You need that fan to work, if it is not and you turn it off and run into a store or something and then try to start it shortly after, it does not want to start, and when it does it runs very poorly, very similar to your symptoms that you described. The carb gets to hot and vaporizes the gas. The fan will blow all the hot air away. It also helps the manifolds cool off to avoid cracks. I know this because I had to fix mine and it made a world of difference. But you are having problems at cold start, the fan would not have anything to do with that. I think it is a carb adjustment, and that gets over my head. I do have the same problems as you, same cold start stalling, poor idle at warm start until I get it on a long stretch and it clears out. My carb was rebuilt by Jim Chenoworth a year ago by the previous owner, that makes me think it is just a slight adjustment.

 

[Driving Daisy]

I had a rough idle and spent an hour with a roll of vacume hose. My idle is much better and now I need to retard my timing.
Just a thought, but it made a world of difference for me.
Good luck,
-Martin

 

[bigbertha]

gas cap

you might also check your gas cap to make sure it is venting properly. it can sometimes not allow air into the tank creating a vacuum in the tank witch the fuel pump cannot compensate for. I think that is what happens but am not positive. Either way, the hard starting, dying and bucking can be caused by this vacuum.

You can also check your egr modulator assembly to make sure it is working properly. FSM has procedures for this. You can pull the hose at the egr valve assembly and plug it with a screw. I did this on my way home today and the bucking stopped and my acceleration was spot on.

My rig, which was having lots of sorta similar problems, was helped by addressing the above things among many others.