Icon vs Radflo vs OME vs Bilstein and the service requirements (2 Viewers)

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NMBruce

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I have read a bunch of threads on shocks here and other places. My GX will be driven about 20k miles a year, some years more, some less. It will spend at least 3-4 weeks off road up by Ouray and Silverton and Telluride and maybe other places, in Utah and AZ.

From read threads, I am sure that 2.5 are worth the money over 2.0, not sure if the remote reservoir is or not for the avg GX. I know we are at the weight where the 2.5 are worth it.

Next is long travel, I think it would be worth it to have on my GX, but guessing almost any after market system will add some longer travel???

I have friend who just installed Icons on a new 4runner and he was telling me about the service intervals, so I called Icon. They said for me, from what I told them, that the shocks should be serviced about every 30K miles, for me that means every other year or so. So it means the GX down for a week and $500 +shipping to have them serviced.

Radflo said that their would need service if a problem showed up or about every 50-60K miles. So about twice as long between service as Icon. Cost and downtime about the same.

Looks like OME or Bilstein are 60K warranty shocks and replace as needed.


I have read many post where FJ people are very happy with OME, but its a lighter vehicle.
Obsessmuch said, "The radflo shocks coil overs and springs are a step up from the oldman emu and the ironman stuff."
And a lot like Bilsteins and OME, but most say that Icon or Radflo are a step up and a better ride.




So for you guys that have Icon or Radflo, do you follow the service intervals set by those companies?

Icon or Radflo long travel worth it?

remote reservoir or not?

Is there something I am missing about OME or Bilsteins? Or do I spend the extra and forget about these two?


Lift, springs, shocks and air bags in springs go on in May if the $$$ are there.
 
I just rebuilt my icon 2.5 reservoir shocks and it cost me about 60 bucks in seals and oil, that was just the rears. The regular schrader valves allow you to find anyone with nitrogen to charge them.
 
I just rebuilt my icon 2.5 reservoir shocks and it cost me about 60 bucks in seals and oil, that was just the rears. The regular schrader valves allow you to find anyone with nitrogen to charge them.

at how many miles on them?
 
I bought them used for 300. They were lost the nitrogen charge so I rebuilt them and got them charged. I found a shock seal resource that is significantly cheaper than icon's prices also. But you can order all of the parts for any of their shocks.

I wouldn't imagine the shocks need to be rebuilt that often. I would imagine no more often than you would regularly replace a cheap shock.
 
I only have 5000 miles on my ICONs so I can't speak to the rebuild (which I dread) but I went with remote reservoirs so that I could get the adjustable CDC valves and be able to tune the shocks. That said, I don't notice a big difference from positions 1 to 9 so I would have likely been happy with 2.5's and no remote resi. But I've bought too many overly stiff shocks before so I wanted the adjust ability. The ICONs ride great btw. I didn't consider these but Fox shocks with the remote resi's seem to be popular with the T4R guys.
 
This what I gathered from my previous research from multiple threads, forums, articles, and discussions with 4x4 specialty shops. OME and bilstein are fine suspension upgrades, affordable, but there are obviously better options. I had less expensive bilstein shocks and springs that were ok but am glad I upgraded.

Discussions with shops informed me that radflo and icons were pretty comparable rides. The reason I went with Icons is because one of the shop owner informed me that he sold both suspensions and had quite a few radflo brought back in with issues (I believe shock related)...asked him which would he choose for his vehicle and he preferred Icons.

I personally do not think remote resi shocks are worth it unless you are racing Baja or jumping. I planned on doing neither.

Long travel? All these questions circle back to what do you plan on doing with your vehicle? And is it worth it to pay for that added feature or benefit? Only you can answer that question correctly.

Less than 3K miles on Icons so I cannot help on rebuild question.
 
I believe you mean extended travel, not long travel. The only additional cost would be the need for aftermarket UCA's with extended travel. The cost of the coilover itself is the same as the standard travel. So if you plan on getting UCA's anyway, then definitely opt for the extended travel. The Bilsteins will also provide extended travel range - so I would go with UCA's if you go that route also.
 
I believe you mean extended travel, not long travel. The only additional cost would be the need for aftermarket UCA's with extended travel. The cost of the coilover itself is the same as the standard travel. So if you plan on getting UCA's anyway, then definitely opt for the extended travel. The Bilsteins will also provide extended travel range - so I would go with UCA's if you go that route also.

madtoy is right and that why I went with extended travel coilovers in the front. Plus the ICONs were the same price for normal travel and extended travel and I was definitely going with new UCA's in order to get the castor correction that they provide. Without the UCA's your castor angle will be low and you may not like the way it drives. I went with Camburg UCA's that use MOOG balljoints because I wasn't sure how well uni-balls would hold up here in WI.
 
madtoy is right and that why I went with extended travel coilovers in the front. Plus the ICONs were the same price for normal travel and extended travel and I was definitely going with new UCA's in order to get the castor correction that they provide. Without the UCA's your castor angle will be low and you may not like the way it drives. I went with Camburg UCA's that use MOOG balljoints because I wasn't sure how well uni-balls would hold up here in WI.
I did the same, extended travel icons with camburg ball joint uca. I am very happy with the setup.
 
Thank you for the replies, good information
 
I just put on Bilstein and Toytec. I used the bottom perch for the least lift. It's still a lot higher then stock. But it's very very smooth. I think using the bottom perch is the way to go if you want comfortable. Even my better half thought it rode great. Better then the 15 4Runner that was stock by a good amount. For a stock type of truck it's hard to fault it. I can put a spacer above the top hat for more lift if I wanted. So you don't need to go crazy with high end stuff to get comfort and a decent lasting setup.
 
I had similar questions to the OP, and decided to go OME. After researching, and asking around from people smarter (and with more experience with these setups), I decided I would go for a potentially worse ride and more readily replaceable setup in OME than the specialized ICON or Radflo stuff. I had Dirt Logic coilovers and springs on my Jeep Wrangler, and it was a nightmare to get them rebuilt when needed. It rode nice, and flexed really well (solid axle vs independent), but it was extremely expensive to rebuild the shocks, and it would have been just as well to throw new cheaper shocks in that would have handled close to as well. When I broke high $$$ stuff, i wished i had cheaper options available. That helped with my decision as well, cause I know i will break stuff. It just happens to me...

Also, unless you replace lower front control arms and CV shafts, you won't get much more travel from a IFS setup. You are limited by the geometry and fixed mounting points on the arms and axle length. You can get extended travel, like mentioned above, by replacing UCA's, but your lower arms still limit down travel.

For my GX, i opted to get the Light Racing UCA's with ball joints to correct caster, and the slight travel improvement.

Having typed all of that, I have not installed my OME setup in my GX yet. It is sitting in my garage waiting for tomorrow to get it all in. I will report back after installation how it rides compared to stock.
 
I had similar questions to the OP, and decided to go OME. After researching, and asking around from people smarter (and with more experience with these setups), I decided I would go for a potentially worse ride and more readily replaceable setup in OME than the specialized ICON or Radflo stuff. I had Dirt Logic coilovers and springs on my Jeep Wrangler, and it was a nightmare to get them rebuilt when needed. It rode nice, and flexed really well (solid axle vs independent), but it was extremely expensive to rebuild the shocks, and it would have been just as well to throw new cheaper shocks in that would have handled close to as well. When I broke high $$$ stuff, i wished i had cheaper options available. That helped with my decision as well, cause I know i will break stuff. It just happens to me...

Also, unless you replace lower front control arms and CV shafts, you won't get much more travel from a IFS setup. You are limited by the geometry and fixed mounting points on the arms and axle length. You can get extended travel, like mentioned above, by replacing UCA's, but your lower arms still limit down travel.

For my GX, i opted to get the Light Racing UCA's with ball joints to correct caster, and the slight travel improvement.

Having typed all of that, I have not installed my OME setup in my GX yet. It is sitting in my garage waiting for tomorrow to get it all in. I will report back after installation how it rides compared to stock.

I was soooo close to do OME. In the end I went with Bilstein because I had them on my Tundra and really liked them. If you look closely at all the bad ride reviews of the Bilstein it's often with people using Lift Springs with the higher perch settings. OME does not have adjustable perches to allow you to do that. I was really surprised how complaint my setup is. Nothing like I expected from all the negative ride reviews. Maybe one day we will meet and we can compare. I think that would be interesting.
 
I was soooo close to do OME. In the end I went with Bilstein because I had them on my Tundra and really liked them. If you look closely at all the bad ride reviews of the Bilstein it's often with people using Lift Springs with the higher perch settings. OME does not have adjustable perches to allow you to do that. I was really surprised how complaint my setup is. Nothing like I expected from all the negative ride reviews. Maybe one day we will meet and we can compare. I think that would be interesting.
Like co4wheel, I also went with Bilsteins and Toytec (Eibach) for a 2.5-3 inch lift, and I also installed SPC UCA's. Couldn't. Be. Happier. I've had too many trucks with upgraded suspensions that rode like crap, so I've been there and suffered through that.

Granted, I'm not doing severe stuff with my GX. Not at all. But my experience has been that this thing rides nearly as nice off-road as on-road. That's worth a lot to me. Plus, the Bilsteins are quality and have a lifetime warranty.

I want it to where I work on my trucks because I want to, not because I have to.
 
Thanks guys

I found that Icon does make a long/extended travel front kit and so does Radflo, but As Moab cj5 said, a least with the Radflo, you only gain 7/8" extra travel. Not sure about Icon, but Metaltech website says "They increase suspension travel and dramatically increase the capabilities of your GX470's front suspension." but it doesn't say how much?
Could find anything about how much travel a new control arms make in travel
 
For those that went with OME or Bilsteins, what else did you change or add? Seems UCA, but what else and what rated springs did you use, front and back? Where did you get the stuff?
 
Basically my thought and build went like this. I wanted similar to stock spring rate but about 2 inch's taller then stock. I knew if I stayed around that number I would not need new Upper Control arms which are expensive for the cost benefit anasazis. I would rather have sliders and armor then the extra .75 inch they allow. The Stock Springs on a PRADO (thats not our Lexus GX470) is 605. I have never seen any report on what our Lexus Spring rate actually is. 4Runners are in the 580 range for the V6. OME is 590lb and Eibach is 620lb. I did not want softer. A heavy truck pitching around was not my goal. And I did not want stiffer valving trying to control a light spring but heavy truck. So 620 was the choice. Most coil springs makers use 25lbs increases on their off the shelf coil springs. 620 is close enough to 605 for me. Orion and I talked via PM. He said his really did ride pretty nice with the Eibach 112-620 fronts and Hyperflex rear (not the HD). I was going to get the OME Sport with the comfort valving. I talked to the sales guy at Wheelers to order. I told him my goal of comfort vs some artificial high lift. OME vs Bilstein. No Preload for better comfort. He suggested the cheaper Bilstein and no preload and then add a spacer lift above the strut if I wanted more lift. I used the Metal Tech DIY kit in the rear, Went to amazon for the Upper Spring Seat Isolators. That saved a couple bucks over Metal Techs full kit. I had Wheelers Install the springs using new top hats etc. Using the bottom perch. That was on "sale" when I did it. To me it was worth the money over doing it myself and ordering a ton of parts and doing it myself. You can rent a spring compressor from AutoZone if you want for free. I think that is it.

For people who want a smooth riding Lexus GX470 I would duplicate my setup in a heartbeat. To me its perfect. Valving is light years better then my 80K mile 04 shocks. Its smooth and controlled. It does not bounce. It does not bottom out (unlike the stock). It is not harsh at all. I used to build Long Travel lowering setups for Nissan DD/Track Cars in the late 90s and 2000's. I used Koni's exclusively and added travel while lowering the car. They rode great. I wanted a pure WIN/WIN like those setups I built. I feel like I hit the goal perfectly.

Thanks Orion for answering my questions via pm.

So to summarize
Bilstein 5100. Bottom perch setting.
Eibach/Toytec 112-620 Front Springs
Toytec Hyperflex Rear Spring (not HD)
Metal Tech DIY rear air delete kit.
48302-35040 Spring Seat Isolator

Amazon and find "Genuine Toyota 48302-35040 Spring Seat Sub-Assembly" Or just that part number
4Runner Lift Kit & Accessories - 2003 - 2009
Suspension
'05 GX470 "build"...
 
Last edited:
OK I did some comparison pricey, using Metaltech website.
With this lift kit, I will be adding SSO rear bumper.

minimum requirements are 2.5" lift, 2.5 or 60mm shocks, New UCA,

Now these prices could be a bit off and I might of missed something in one of my suspension builds, but it gives me an idea of cost.

I will get new UCA for alignment, but do I need to get the Upper & Lower rear link? If I don't get the long travel, do I need new brake lines, or do that as preventive maintenance?

OME 2.5" lift (this need to be changed a bit, don't want the rear 885E shocks)
Nitrocharged shocks
Camberg UCA
Metal tech upper & lower links
Rear coil conv
New Brake lines, front and rear
bump stops
about $2500-$2800

Radflo 2.5" stage 4 lift (the stage 6 lift works out to be about the same price after all the add ons)
2.5 shocks front & rear
650lbs springs
TC uniball UCA
Metal tech Upper & lower links
Rear coil conv
New Brake lines
bump stops
About $3880.00

SSO Radflo Stage 3.5
(2) Total Chaos tubular uniball upper control arms
(2) 2.5" Radflo Extended Travel Front Coil-Over Kit ( w/ spanner wrench)
(2) 2.5" Radflo Rear Shocks with Internal Floating Piston
(2) 2" Lift Radflo Rear Coil Springs
Metal tech upper & Lower links
new brake lines
bump stop
About $3600.00

Radflo Long travel kit
Radflo 2.5 remote reservoir
Metal tech LT HD rear springs (will long travels hold Firestone airbags)
upper & lower links
metal tech bump stops
new front and rear brake lines
Camberg UCA
Radflo Extended travel 2.5 shocks
about $3600.00

Icon kit, same as the Radflo above with Icon long travel Remote Reservoir Front shock
About $4500.00
 
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ITEMS SKU QTY PRICE TOTAL
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RFJ-BIL (33-187174) Bilstein 5100 Rear shocks for FJ/4Runner
Item Weight: 12lbs $199.99 $199.99
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SS-4RFBL Front brake lines for 96+ 4Runner
Item Weight: 2lbs $63.99 $63.99
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FJRL14 Extended Rear Brake Lines (07+FJ & '03+ Runner)
Item Weight: 1lbs $69.99 $69.99
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SBR-129 SBR-129 Sway bar relocates
Item Weight: 2lbs $29.99 $29.99
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OME-895 Rear OME 895 & 895E Rear Coils (FJ & 03-09 4Run)
Coils: 895

Item Weight: 25lbs $169.99 $169.99
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MT-GX470-4000 4Runner/GX470 Rear Coil Conversion Complete Kit
Item Weight: 8lbs $249.95 $249.95
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43006 43006-TTL - Rear Aluminum 2" Bump Stop Kit, 07+FJ - 03+4Runner - "ToyTec"
Item Weight: 5lbs $69.99 $69.99
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46-227287-ASB25 Bilstein 6112 Series Front Shock Kit for 03-09 4Runner and 07-09 FJ
Add assembly with new top mounts and hardware: Yes, Set at 2.5" lift - $100.00

Item Weight: 35lbs $854.62 $854.62
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TAC-DR-05 Front Differential Drop Kit
Item Weight: 3lbs $30.99 $30.99
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4135 Firestone rear airbags
Item Weight: 15lbs $99.99 $99.99
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43077-TTL 43077-TTL Toytec signature series Complete Aluminum Rear Link Kit for 07+FJ and 03+ 4Runner
Item Weight: 45lbs $1,239.99 $1,239.99
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Subtotal $3,079.48
TOTAL $3,079.48

this is from Toytec website and includes the firestone rear air bags that the other builds do not
 
I went with the OME lift kit for the GX ($855 from Cruiser Outfitters). My kit that I chose came with OME front Coils 2884, OME front struts 90000, OME rear coils 2896, rear shocks OME 60004. I went stock stiffness in the front, and 300-600 extra lbs (medium) for the rear springs and shocks. I also ordered the rear spring conversion kit from Cruiser Outfitters and it was $215 for the kit they gave me.

Then, on top of that, I went with Light Racing/SPC UCA's will adjustable ball joints so I can get the alignment dialed in, and that extra inch or so of travel. Those were $440ish for the pair. Then, because I tend to break stuff, and read a little about the rear lower control arms and how they are vulnerable, I also added Light Racing/SPC rear lower control arms. They are BEEFY compared to stock. They were and extra $250.

I'm into my total suspension right around $1,900. I still need an alignment, and I will be purchasing new wheels and tires, but overall I think I will be happy with my setup.

It took me ALL FREAKING DAY today to get it installed, but it is now all installed. I drove around the block and like the ride. I was a little worried I had gone too stiff in the rear, but I think it will ultimately be just fine, especially once I add a rear bumper and gas cans.

Good luck on your decision. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the systems.
 

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