I just created an electrical monster - need suggestions

[GLTHFJ60]

The reason why a fuse "pops" is because you're drawing enough current through it to melt the contact between the two pins of the fuse. For example, if you try to pull 16 or 17 amps through a 15 amp fuse (regular automotive blade style fuse), then it will pop. If you keep replacing the fuse and it always pops, or put a higher capacity (than stock) fuse in, it's entirely possible that you've fried the harness.

Get out the multimeter and see if you have current between the pins in the bulb socket and the - terminal on the battery while the lights are on. At least one pin in each bulb socket should have ~12v+ when the light switch is on. If you do, then it's the bulb. Replace them. If you don't, then it's the switch / relay / harness.

Not sure if I missed it, but which "lights" are you talking about?

 

[LockedNLoaded]

Had any luck or need a second set of eyes on it? Glad to help and in Raleigh, let me know. I have been working on vehicle electrical stuff a long time, put myself through college as a stereo/alarm installer. Back in the 90's, we were some of the first folks to install these newfangled LCD monitors in the dash, it was the monster sized sony 4". Haha. If you guys have been around a while, you will remember dashboard stereo and stereo trends, maybe even my smurf blue '76 40 sitting out front. I have a code reader as well if you need it. Let me know.

Unfortunately, no luck resolving the issue entirely. She runs just fine now, just cant figure out this fuse issue with the lights. As of right now the factory lights are back in and the fuse does not pop, but the lights are not working either. When you put your finger on the fuse and push it, you will here a clicking sounds from time to time. I really appreciate the offer to help! Not sure if you are going to be at the monthly meeting this week, but if you are I would welcome a second set of eyes to look at it. I feel bad about asking you or anyone else to stop by to look at it for such a small issue. At least at this point, I know I can make it down to Logan's Run, so puts to rest my biggest worry when this all started.

The reason why a fuse "pops" is because you're drawing enough current through it to melt the contact between the two pins of the fuse. For example, if you try to pull 16 or 17 amps through a 15 amp fuse (regular automotive blade style fuse), then it will pop. If you keep replacing the fuse and it always pops, or put a higher capacity (than stock) fuse in, it's entirely possible that you've fried the harness.

Get out the multimeter and see if you have current between the pins in the bulb socket and the - terminal on the battery while the lights are on. At least one pin in each bulb socket should have ~12v+ when the light switch is on. If you do, then it's the bulb. Replace them. If you don't, then it's the switch / relay / harness.

Not sure if I missed it, but which "lights" are you talking about?

Well the issue was with the front parking lights. Apparently, the fuse they use is also "tied" to the back tail lights and some interior dash lights (but not all). When I tried using LED lights it was evident that they were drawing too much amps and therefore it would pop the fuse. Currently, there is now popping going on at all at the moment as all the factory lights are back in. Certainly, never tried to put in a higher capacity fuse in. To date I have only popped two fuses on this issue. From what I can tell I am NOT getting any current in the bulb sockets. I don't believe its a switch issue as you can actually hear the switch when you turn the lights on. So I assume its either a relay or harness issue. Will try to make it to the monthly meeting on Wed. Would certainly welcome a second pair of eyes on this.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Well the issue was with the front parking lights. Apparently, the fuse they use is also "tied" to the back tail lights and some interior dash lights (but not all). When I tried using LED lights it was evident that they were drawing too much amps and therefore it would pop the fuse. Currently, there is now popping going on at all at the moment as all the factory lights are back in. Certainly, never tried to put in a higher capacity fuse in. To date I have only popped two fuses on this issue. From what I can tell I am NOT getting any current in the bulb sockets. I don't believe its a switch issue as you can actually hear the switch when you turn the lights on. So I assume its either a relay or harness issue. Will try to make it to the monthly meeting on Wed. Would certainly welcome a second pair of eyes on this.

Bring her over, I'll bring my multimeter.

 

[LockedNLoaded]

Just want to say a big thanks to Johnny. He pointed me in a direction and some how by the grace of god I managed to fix this mess. I believe the issue was something no one suggested. I noticed for the most part there were "wear" marks only on one side of the fuse. So that told me the wire that was jammed in there from the modem thing must have stretched the one of the fuse plug in (sorry my terminology is bad). So I fabed up a tool that would allow me to push it back. Wouldn't you know it, apparently that was the issue this whole time.

Again I appreciate everyone's help with this issue!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Glad you fixed her up! I considered that as an option when you mentioned you heard a "clicking" noise after wiggling the fuse. It seemed tight in there when I tried to wiggle it.

Either case, good work Sorry we missed you at Logan's Run! Next year my man