HZJ77 - 1hz - cold start / choke ?

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Joined
Jul 25, 2018
Threads
11
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84
Location
Asheville NC
From experience so far, I wait for the glow plug lights to go off. Then start it, runs a bit rough and a turn the choke a bit clockwise and it idles a bit better. Then when coming to a stop and idling the engine gets rough and can stall at times. (untill warm)

I just read I should wait a minute after the glow plug light goes off before starting.

Note: it was -3 celsius today.

Any recommendation would be appreciated as this my first winter with her.
 
When it is cold, I cycle the glow system twice. Turn on the key, wait for the pre-heat light to go out then turn off the key and repeat. This procedure helps the engine run more smoothly after starting.
When you say choke, I presume you are referring to the manual idle adjustment knob on the lower dash that has the "choke" symbol on it. If cycling the glow system twice does not help your starts, turn up the idle a little prior to starting and it should help the engine run better after the initial start. You can adjust the idle back down (to @ 700 rpm) after the engine warms up.
 
Thanks, man, ill give that a go!
 
Try listening for the main glow relay opening. This usually happens after about 6-10 seconds. Start right after you hear this. If your battery/wiring/glowplugs/compression are in good shape, it should start clean and easy with one glow at -3C. If anything is compromised, it could still start rough. I had an engine down on compression in a couple cylinders, and it needed a double glow to start clean (as described above). In this case, wait to hear the glow relay open after the first glow, shut your key to the off position, wait a second, and then do a second glow cycle. When you hear the glow relay open again, then start the engine. Just ignore the glow light in the vehicle; it is pretty much useless.
 
What does a relay opening sound like?
 
When it is cold, I cycle the glow system twice. Turn on the key, wait for the pre-heat light to go out then turn off the key and repeat. This procedure helps the engine run more smoothly after starting.
When you say choke, I presume you are referring to the manual idle adjustment knob on the lower dash that has the "choke" symbol on it. If cycling the glow system twice does not help your starts, turn up the idle a little prior to starting and it should help the engine run better after the initial start. You can adjust the idle back down (to @ 700 rpm) after the engine warms up.
^^^^^^ What our resident legal eagle said. :)
 
I cannot believe what I just read in the post headline, diesel and choke is an oxymoron I think. Maybe someone should study how diesels run, or maybe that four barrel Carter that you hillbilly hacked into the intake system is just not working and could be the problem with the cold starting.
 
I cannot believe what I just read in the post headline, diesel and choke is an oxymoron I think. Maybe someone should study how diesels run, or maybe that four barrel Carter that you hillbilly hacked into the intake system is just not working and could be the problem with the cold starting.
Being somewhat of a hillbilly myself I must admit I'm not familiar with a "four barrel Carter".
 
Being somewhat of a hillbilly myself I must admit I'm not familiar with a "four barrel Carter".

It's been so long since I have had a vehicle with a carb on it I forget which is which. I do have a 950 Predator somewhere in all the junk in the shop.
 
From experience so far, I wait for the glow plug lights to go off. Then start it, runs a bit rough and a turn the choke a bit clockwise and it idles a bit better

As you may now know its not a choke. I call it the fast idle knob. Turn it up a bit before you start, practice will find the right amount.
Turn your key to glow the plugs, when the light goes off , do it again and then start the engine. Relays make a clicking noise.
You probably have a dead glow plug.
 
Went thru this with my LJ77 a while back:

screen-shot-2018-10-29-at-10-44-16-png.1820152


The above is from the owners manual.

I ended up ordering new glow plugs from Onur and starting improved. ( beno)

After starting, I usually "turn" the choke and the engine will smooth out around 1200 rpms. You should be able to reduce rpms to 1000 until you drive a bit and the engine warms up.
 
What does a relay opening sound like?

It's a pretty loud 'click' in the engine bay. Make sure your stereo and fan are off and you'll hear it. Happens about 7 sec after turning the key to 'on' for glowing.
 
Listening for the loud click has helped a lot. I haven't been putting any throttle down when starting so that might help also.
 
Try listening for the main glow relay opening. This usually happens after about 6-10 seconds. Start right after you hear this. If your battery/wiring/glowplugs/compression are in good shape, it should start clean and easy with one glow at -3C. If anything is compromised, it could still start rough. I had an engine down on compression in a couple cylinders, and it needed a double glow to start clean (as described above). In this case, wait to hear the glow relay open after the first glow, shut your key to the off position, wait a second, and then do a second glow cycle. When you hear the glow relay open again, then start the engine. Just ignore the glow light in the vehicle; it is pretty much useless.
@GTSSportCoupe
Thank you for your post. I have been waiting for the relay and my truck does start cleanly on the first glow. Have not needed to double glow. Should have known a Canadian would have the best advice on a cold start!
Peter
 
Had some issues again today. -7c waited for the relay but ran really rough and stalled. Tried double glow and choke to no avail. I didn't have much time to dick with it past that so I took the other truck.
 
Had some issues again today. -7c waited for the relay but ran really rough and stalled. Tried double glow and choke to no avail. I didn't have much time to dick with it past that so I took the other truck.

You could pull the glow rail off, and measure the resistance of each glow plug to see if any have problems. Any that are high resistance will have burnt out. If this is the case, just replace them all with new ones.

Make sure to clean all the electrical connections when you put it back together.

Once it's back together (assuming plugs are good), have an assistant with a voltmeter measure the voltage at the end of the glow rail with reference to ground while you cycle the glow plugs (cold engine). Make sure you have the right voltage (23-24V) for the right amount of time (7seconds). If you don't, then there are troubles with your glow controller, wiring, batteries, or glow relay.

If your glow system checks out fine, you might have low compression. This can be checked with a diesel compression tester with the correct adapters for the glow plug holes (you'll have to remove the glow plugs).

The other thing that can cause these symptoms is air in your fuel system. Air can get in at the fuel primer, fuel filter, injection pump, or any of the rubber fuel lines in the engine bay. If your injectors have been serviced/removed recently, air can also get in at the fuel return rail at the injectors. In my truck I replaced the primer with a new one, and put new hose clamps on all of the rubber fuel lines in the engine bay. I've also re-sealed my entire injection pump.
 

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