HzJ76 alarm and immobiliser problems??? (1 Viewer)

[Gengis]

Hi all

I have a 2007 HzJ76 2007, South African model and I have to admit that I have never come to terms with the factory alarm immobilizer thingy.
Sometimes when I get in, as hit the ignition position with the key, I get all the lights and they glow system starts. Other times I get no lights or glow until I hit the remote button, then the lights come on and the glow period starts. And, I have never used or figured out just what that funny insert (right of the remote in the picture) does. I know where to insert it, but don't know when or why.

I was happy to carry on through life like that, BUT, it has now become intermittent. symptoms are varied , but go along the lines of:

No lights or glow when key is turned OR when remote is pushed, fiddling with both usually gets the system on and glowed and I can start and go.
Cutting out soon after start, and again fiddling with key or remote starts it.
Cutting out when running!! This is the baddie, and potentially dangerous. It’s only happened a few times, but it must now be sorted.
Strange thing is that I haven’t figured how the lights (and starting ability) come back on. Fiddling with key, fiddling with remote, tapping the fuse box, or a time period. No smoking gun.
Anyone else have similar systems and similar problems? Is this a common 76 problem? Do they have different systems for different countries?
Where do I start looking??

G

 

[Gengis]

OK, i think the problem here is that I am not using the correct wording, and that different markets have different electrical and alarm and remote requirements.
Fact remains that if the SA vechicles are left open for more than a few minuts , once you have turned the key to IG, you need to hit the remote button to activate dash lights or glow system or IP fuel switch. So to my mind, if the car has a remote, as in the top post, then there must be a relay ( or black box) somewhere between the key and the engine fuse, or just after the fuse before going to a hundred other circuits. I have yet to see this relay on any circuit, can anyone out there throw some light on the subject.

 

[Gengis]

OK , so there is a relay in exactly the same place as I thunked it would be, and its a part of the alarm/door lock controller/immobilizer, and one for the "start" wire which is built int this unit.

Clearly a bit of a Toyota afterthought as it's wedged between the brake pedal and accelerator pedal, and the wiring is a bit "loose" compared to the rest.
Anyway, no smokeing gun, but enough warm barrels to make me think I may have nailed this intermittent problem.

The top is a relay switch in the "start" wire from the ignition key, the lower is a relay switching the "ON" or switched wire also directly from the key switch, but clearly controlled from this little black box as well.
Both sets of wires had been mangeled by the PO, and although everything was plugged in, the spade connectors were in a really crappy condition and the excessive heat from the soldering just added to possible joint/dry joint problems. I still could not find a reason as to why the PO had to do this, but there you go.
So, its all working, but I intend replaceing the relay, just in case and , at the very least, I now know exactly where to go if this system ever dumps me deep in the bush.
Anyone have a wireing diagram which incorporates this black box please???

George

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

The above looks like a hacked alarm system.

It is common for poorly installed alarm setups to mess with the ignition circuit. They also mess with the light and door lock circuits.

As a result, over time the alarm ECU will misinterpret contact between poorly insulated wires as a break-in attempt and will try to block everything.

Next thing you know is that you are stranded, and that you have to find a way to physically disconnect the alarm. Ask me how I know.

It is better to get rid of all non-OEM wires/relays/blackboxes. The truck should start normally after that. Then get a good alarm properly installed.







Juan

 

[Gengis]

Yes and no, Juan
I am sure that the module in the top picture is a stardard Toyota product, It definately controlls the remote and door locking and some immobilising as well. the heavy leads to the left of the white plugs is an internal relay which cuts the start wire from the key. The external relay has it own place in the metal box and is properly wired into the system. (it is controlled by the same black box). this switches the "ON" wire from the key before it goes anywhere else, so if this relay wobbels, it cuts everything and you stop dead. BUT it looks like Uncle Toyota put it in there. Just why the PO had to cut and rejoin these wires from the key still illudes me.

We must remember that remotes and alarms and immobilisers ( And electric windows) are relativly new to the 70 series and the location of this box bears out that they had to find a place for this , so I'm still sure it's standard, Possible for select markets, like South Africa where they like stealing things.

Lucky it's a simple Hz with no ECU but hell, you dont want it cutting out on a busy highway.


I may considder a hidden switch which overrides both these relays if the black box ever fails. Or if the remote ever fails?? Never had that but i believe that the insert ( In my very first picture of the keys, the right most one) would solve this. The plug which this goes into is wired into this same box.

 

[Gengis]

Solved, in that it’s a South African only modification done by Toyota South Africa . The module is made locally by a company called Shureloc. Every Hz76 sold here got one. BUT, no circuit diagram concerning the modification put out by Toyota, and no private sales of the module by Shurloc,, go figure.
Anyway Its sorted and rewired and works and I know just where to go if it ever packs up on me.

 

[Vayani]

Yes and no, Juan
I am sure that the module in the top picture is a stardard Toyota product, It definately controlls the remote and door locking and some immobilising as well. the heavy leads to the left of the white plugs is an internal relay which cuts the start wire from the key. The external relay has it own place in the metal box and is properly wired into the system. (it is controlled by the same black box). this switches the "ON" wire from the key before it goes anywhere else, so if this relay wobbels, it cuts everything and you stop dead. BUT it looks like Uncle Toyota put it in there. Just why the PO had to cut and rejoin these wires from the key still illudes me.

We must remember that remotes and alarms and immobilisers ( And electric windows) are relativly new to the 70 series and the location of this box bears out that they had to find a place for this , so I'm still sure it's standard, Possible for select markets, like South Africa where they like stealing things.

Lucky it's a simple Hz with no ECU but hell, you dont want it cutting out on a busy highway.


I may considder a hidden switch which overrides both these relays if the black box ever fails. Or if the remote ever fails?? Never had that but i believe that the insert ( In my very first picture of the keys, the right most one) would solve this. The plug which this goes into is wired into this same box.

I have same car and I am locksmith but this system i just saw first time and how we program second of of this system ?

 

[fl4031003]

Got the same system and need a diagram to figure out how its hook up. Any ideas? Can this system be removed without any issues?