HZJ75 turbo, need a bit of help - multiple issues

[Jazztyme]

Hey,

Just picked up a 1995 1HZ 75 series. assuming that = HZJ75. It has a turbo added to it see pics.

It has a few problems and I hope to crunch through these and be left with a reliable cruiser that will last me a few years. Hoping for some input and advice from this community. Keen for some thoughts on approaches to fixes + diagnostic help. Here is a link to a photo album, will update it as i go. Thanks in advance !

This is my list so far;
Hot start issue - cold starts no problems at all, small puff on startup then no smog at all runs real clean, does feel like it looses power . After its at operating temp it doesnt seem to want to fire up again. I have noticed that this rectangular pump before the filter is wired to alligator clips loosly sitting in the engine bay. Does anyone know the correct operation of this pump? does it just prime on accessories and then turn off? or should it always be on? i found an unused electric connector near by, will measure it with a meter next time I am playing with it.

Next issue is that the handbrake cables are sitting loose in the rear. Being a 95 and a Australian ute I thought that this should have disc brake rears? they are drums, but it doesnt look like there is anywhere to hook these cables up to. Is anyone able to ID the diff/ advise of some measurements to take to get some clarity.

Next Issue are the brakes are non existant. I can pump and hold and get a bit of brake pressure, enough to stop it from moving and hold still, but need to pump like a mad man to get there. I bled the rear drums, a unit above the rear diff and the front calipers and it made no difference. What was interesting was that once all bled the pedal was super firm, but as soon as the engine was started the pedal went to the floor. Is this pointing to brake booster problems? could it be a porblem with the master not liking the the rear drums if they shouldnt be there?? Hmm.

The turbo sounds like it is off its chops, was driving at 80kph and it was bloody noisy as. as shown in pic below looks like the wastegate is not hooked up to anything. So assuming it is running at whatever the spring pressure is? any ideas on what this should be referenced to? Any ideas what turbo that is? castings are unfamiliar to me, pretty sure high pressure PVC glue was used for the intake so no issues there........., there is a boost gauge and EGT probe/ temp gauge in the car, i will try and see if i can get these working to get a better picture of whats going on.

only other dramas are just leaks, seems like the gearbox is leaking into the bell housing as there is greenish tinged oil dripping off the clutch fork, front diff around the drive shaft coupling is oily as.

 

[Jazztyme]

Oh and this line from the fuel tank is just plugged, nothing near by to join it into though..... thoughts? thanks again.

Few more pics for opinions sake...

 

[Felde]

Looks like quite some work required.
I can tell something on the brakes...
You need to check them systematically and thouroughly.
Get a manual. Look at part diagrams to understand the setup.
The handbrake cable usually splits on the rear diff to the left and right. There is a mechanism with some springs and a leaver on the drum backing plate, transferring the handbrake into the drum. The handbrake also operates the adjusting mechanism, so if that is loose, it is not guaranteed the patches are correctly making it to the drum when braking.
Take off the drums and inspect the interiour as per manual specs.
The thing above the rear diff is imho the LSPV (load sensening proportional valve).
It has a long spring rod being attached to the axle. Its there, I see it in the pic. It balances breaking power front and rear. When messed up, no braking power may make it to the rear at all. In particular, if the rod is too much down. (Common fold after having a lift installed).
For the front: Take callipers off and inspect for free movement of pistons. If the boots are toast the pistons may just seize.
You may see unequal work of brake pistins also on the disk: When unevenly worn, the pads are not applied with equally force, pointing to a seized piston.
Also inspect all flex breakelines. They may have macerated and be partly blocked.
The brake paddle always goes from pumped hard to a bit softer and down once the engine is started and the booster kicks in. That's normal unless some pedal travel is left. Procedure and spec to test the booster and this behaviour is in the manual.
Take the brakes seriously and have a pro take a look if you are not familiar with it.
Brakes are lifesavers.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Hot start issue - cold starts no problems at all, small puff on startup then no smog at all runs real clean, does feel like it looses power . After its at operating temp it doesnt seem to want to fire up again. I have noticed that this rectangular pump before the filter is wired to alligator clips loosly sitting in the engine bay. Does anyone know the correct operation of this pump? does it just prime on accessories and then turn off? or should it always be on? i found an unused electric connector near by, will measure it with a meter next time I am playing with it.

Typical injection pump problem. These injection pumps lose pressure and make them hard to start when warmed up. You also said it loses power and this is another symptom of a dying injection pump. The pump has lost the fine tolerance around the plunger and pump head.

The rectangular thing is most likely a fuel pump added by the owner to push fuel to the injection pump to fix this problem. But they will not make up for a pump that is worn internally as the high pressure side of the pump can not be improved by adding more fuel pressure to the low pressure side. Extra fuel is just sent back to the tank once the injection pump is full.
The injection pump has its own pump internally that draws fuel from the tank.
I would remove the rectangular pump and get the fuel system back to standard

I think that unattached line from the tank is part of the tank ventilation.

The diff should be disc but the PO may have swapped it for an older style. You could probably get it working using the cable set up off a pre 1990 model (HJ75). The drums should have some levers etc for the cables to connect to

It looks like the eager beaver previous owner has been playing with things he does not understand and got sick of it.

 

[Felde]

Regarding that open end fuel line on the tank...
There are several versions of tanks with up to like 5 connection pipes. The original filler neck is a ridiculously complex construction. Few people ever understood the design and intention. Having one connection pipe left happens a lot. There are several threads on the tank connection on this forum.
It's a diesel, right?
You may consider that the injection- or fuel-pump may or may not have a return line into the tank, depending on it's type.
Maybe this is a residue.
Leaving it fully open is not a good idea, though. At least put a non-return valve and a filter on it...

 

[Jazztyme]

Thanks for the reply guys. Will be going deeper into the brakes this weekend. Thinking of just refurbing the lot and going 80 series booster, new master. Do we stay away from the cheap brand new Front calipers that I am seeing on the net for $160 for the front pair. Seems to cheap? but interest in entertaining them if they havent been causing people grief?

I could seem to locate anywhere to hook the handbrake cables up to. Thinking earlier than 1990 had the handbrake on the back of the transfer case. Rather than trying to rig up a handbrake on the transfer case, trying to find the correct diff and will just replace.

Does anyone have an idea of what turbo this is? I cant seem to find any housing that match, maybe CT12 from with the flanged intake. But the dump flange has 5 bolts?

 

[roscoFJ73]

I could seem to locate anywhere to hook the handbrake cables up to.

Like I said before, the cable connects to the bell crank which you dont have.

Thinking earlier than 1990 had the handbrake on the back of the transfer case

You have to go back to the 70s on the 40/45 series to find that. If it was an old diff, the rear wheel track would be 40mm or so narrower than the front. A new diff is the best way out of this.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The loose fuel line may plug into the filler tube. I would also look at the fuel evaporative separator to see if any hoses are missing. Its a black plastic thing about the size of a cig packet on the RH side near the fuel filler from memory