Hydroboost brake system (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ne715
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Looks like a nice unit. I was originally going with a booster system to replace my anemic 68 master cylinder. However after I saw a $50 corvette master (no booster) lock up 38s I was sold on the cheaper route.
- Thread starter
- #4
I looked into a vac booster, but since it is diesel I have no vacumm, and setting up a vac system would have been a PITA, and about the same $$$$
Pam
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2004
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- Montgomery Co. TEXAS
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Pam, I run an electric vacuum pump on my rig. Mine's off a Saab and is identical to the ones GM used in the mid 80's. The advantage with an electric pump is as long as the ignition is on you have power brakes. I really comforting thought when you stall going up hill. I plumbed it straight to the Toyota master cylinder and ran the air inlet hose inside the cab of the truck. I think I have $50 or $80 for it used.
LOL,
IMO there is no comparison between a vacuum booster and hydro.
mini to 1ton mini to 3/4 ton masters IS CRAP done it every which way
single diaphrams, dual diaphrams, TACO stuff is next but suppose
to be the same as late double which still wasnt any help. good enough to
work OK, but lock up fronts over a 38 s wont do it. min tire on 1 tons
is well 38s lmao.
electric vacuum, no luck either , several different setups.
inconsistent vacuum. sometimes pulls 10 psi other only 5 psi, cold out pulls
whatever it felt like, if it been running a while maybe 4 psi. Just could
not get any to pull any really PSI ie 15+ is what is needed really. THEY
DO NOT pull any real volume. several applications up through mid 90s on alot
of them, and some still use similiar pumps through 03. havent looked for
anything newer as of a yr or so since i messed with them.
LEFT WITH change geometry and go manual
or spend a few $$$ and go
hydro. I keep 2-3 hydro setups on the shelf at all times for a reason
tech welcome to 40s
IMO there is no comparison between a vacuum booster and hydro.
mini to 1ton mini to 3/4 ton masters IS CRAP done it every which way
single diaphrams, dual diaphrams, TACO stuff is next but suppose
to be the same as late double which still wasnt any help. good enough to
work OK, but lock up fronts over a 38 s wont do it. min tire on 1 tons
is well 38s lmao.
electric vacuum, no luck either , several different setups.
inconsistent vacuum. sometimes pulls 10 psi other only 5 psi, cold out pulls
whatever it felt like, if it been running a while maybe 4 psi. Just could
not get any to pull any really PSI ie 15+ is what is needed really. THEY
DO NOT pull any real volume. several applications up through mid 90s on alot
of them, and some still use similiar pumps through 03. havent looked for
anything newer as of a yr or so since i messed with them.
LEFT WITH change geometry and go manual
or spend a few $$$ and gohydro. I keep 2-3 hydro setups on the shelf at all times for a reason
tech welcome to 40s
Last edited:
hey thanks on the welcome
i run a 1 ton M/C (GM)on my mini booster with 4 wheel disk
on my 85 excab and it will put you in the windshield at will
locks up all 4 37s ez
i have about an inch of pedal travel allso (it stops NOW)
i have played the no brakes game so i built this set up and love it (not my idea) but i do sell the brackets for the rear and the M/C adpt. that i make
i run a 1 ton M/C (GM)on my mini booster with 4 wheel disk
on my 85 excab and it will put you in the windshield at will
locks up all 4 37s ez
i have about an inch of pedal travel allso (it stops NOW)
i have played the no brakes game so i built this set up and love it (not my idea) but i do sell the brackets for the rear and the M/C adpt. that i make
I am familiar with your brake setup on factory toys from other boards.
I was referring to 1 ton axles specific 4 wheel brakes, and then
4 wheel discs on 1 ton axles as well. These were keeping the front
1 ton calipers as well.
FOR anything less dont need to switch to any other master really
and easily stop toy stuff with toy masters even if you
have to go bigger bore. I did 40s on a full body runner on
toys and they locked up, dont think i did one bigger yet and
kept the toys.
Other people claim mini 1 ton on 1 tons works for them, but i done it many
ways and it does not work to date, 6 different boosters, 8 different
masters, replumbed front brakes alone, replumbed complete brakes
end to end, adjusted every adjustment known to man on this setup,
different vehicles from full weight to lighter weight got it close to but
never locked up front on 38s and bigger on 1 tons. REARS never an
issue of course. I only have two more tricks to use on this setup, but
for now SCREW brakes im sick of them. LOL m/c adapter done
them for 5yrs or so and havent liked them yet if you cant tell
learn to live with good enough i guess.
oh and tech no booty fab on 40s
I was referring to 1 ton axles specific 4 wheel brakes, and then
4 wheel discs on 1 ton axles as well. These were keeping the front
1 ton calipers as well.
FOR anything less dont need to switch to any other master really
and easily stop toy stuff with toy masters even if you
have to go bigger bore. I did 40s on a full body runner on
toys and they locked up, dont think i did one bigger yet and
kept the toys.
Other people claim mini 1 ton on 1 tons works for them, but i done it many
ways and it does not work to date, 6 different boosters, 8 different
masters, replumbed front brakes alone, replumbed complete brakes
end to end, adjusted every adjustment known to man on this setup,
different vehicles from full weight to lighter weight got it close to but
never locked up front on 38s and bigger on 1 tons. REARS never an
issue of course. I only have two more tricks to use on this setup, but
for now SCREW brakes im sick of them. LOL m/c adapter done
them for 5yrs or so and havent liked them yet if you cant tell
learn to live with good enough i guess.
oh and tech no booty fab on 40s
ok back a little closer to topic at hand.
looks like 90's minivan brake setup and master ie astro/safari so
you have it for reference
looks bolt in with new hoses, looks like it was adapted to none oring
hoses like it probably would need to be, hard to tell exactly by the
pics. overall good setup and easy deal.
looks like 90's minivan brake setup and master ie astro/safari so
you have it for reference
looks bolt in with new hoses, looks like it was adapted to none oring
hoses like it probably would need to be, hard to tell exactly by the
pics. overall good setup and easy deal.
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2004
- Threads
- 386
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- 3,997
- Location
- Montgomery Co. TEXAS
- Website
- missionsonwheels.org
I must have set up my vacuum pump and Toyota booster/master wrong cause it DOES lock up my 38's...
What ever....
What ever....
66 on 1 ton axles ? i thought you are fj60 stuff or such. and see
you mentioned toy master toy booster.
Just was commenting on my experience with them.
anything pulling vacuum would work to some extent, i just mentioning
that none i have used or tried to use worked worth a damn. 10-15 psi
would be good, 15+ would be ideal for just about every situation, under
10 on most of these pumps is considered low to fault and due for
replacement.
will a rig stop with pulling less then 10 psi it is possible. i dont feel comfortable
even trying to put it on a rig though.
i spent a decent chunk of time with about 7 or 8 different pumps and
you can read my results above. Two were saab or was it volvo? specific, but
those are basically the same as you mentioned. There is three other pumps
off newer applications i havent tested yet that look promising.
Have you ever stuck it on a gauge to see what your pump is doing ? just
curious if nothing else.
Tech, not exactly true statments and dont think you know much about me.
joshing is joshing if there is something else please contact me. see email
to clear the air. WELL you dont have email through this board, and i dont
have PM box here, so please feel free to email me or i guess i could contact
you through the other board ( i think ).
you mentioned toy master toy booster.
Just was commenting on my experience with them.
anything pulling vacuum would work to some extent, i just mentioning
that none i have used or tried to use worked worth a damn. 10-15 psi
would be good, 15+ would be ideal for just about every situation, under
10 on most of these pumps is considered low to fault and due for
replacement.
will a rig stop with pulling less then 10 psi it is possible. i dont feel comfortable
even trying to put it on a rig though.
i spent a decent chunk of time with about 7 or 8 different pumps and
you can read my results above. Two were saab or was it volvo? specific, but
those are basically the same as you mentioned. There is three other pumps
off newer applications i havent tested yet that look promising.
Have you ever stuck it on a gauge to see what your pump is doing ? just
curious if nothing else.
Tech, not exactly true statments and dont think you know much about me.
joshing is joshing if there is something else please contact me. see email
to clear the air. WELL you dont have email through this board, and i dont
have PM box here, so please feel free to email me or i guess i could contact
you through the other board ( i think ).
Last edited:
he's just mad bcuz he's not a mechanic
he just a rusty used up parts seller that thinks he knows
it's obvious!
LOL, first total misunderstanding of my post. and different examples i used could
have made it a bit confusing.
you can stop a stockish 40 on 33s without a booster hooked up, mean anything against
what i posted about, NO cause it is a completely different setup.
and techs post was a hate against me for using the term "booty fab" with no specific
reference, which was loosely based on another forums critique. Used it with smileys,
completely giving him crap, he became defensive, and felt it was an attack.
True or not i didnt even really look at the work, nor do i care all that much.
Tech and I discussed at length privately, this pretty much sums it up, and we are kosher.
done with this.
love bandwagon stuff it is hilarious, but honestly you have no idea nor does he to start with.
never short of riders and always another wagon circling around to catch. I guess i should say
Rawhide! lmao and i forget the start of that, load um up, move them out, RAWHIDE ?
have made it a bit confusing.
you can stop a stockish 40 on 33s without a booster hooked up, mean anything against
what i posted about, NO cause it is a completely different setup.
and techs post was a hate against me for using the term "booty fab" with no specific
reference, which was loosely based on another forums critique. Used it with smileys,
completely giving him crap, he became defensive, and felt it was an attack.
True or not i didnt even really look at the work, nor do i care all that much.
Tech and I discussed at length privately, this pretty much sums it up, and we are kosher.
done with this.
love bandwagon stuff it is hilarious, but honestly you have no idea nor does he to start with.
never short of riders and always another wagon circling around to catch. I guess i should say
Rawhide! lmao and i forget the start of that, load um up, move them out, RAWHIDE ?
- Thread starter
- #15
Okay guys KNOCK IT OFF!!!! You know I posted here in hopes of some positive feedback, and I'm not opposed to critism. I'm a big girl and wear big girl pants and can take the BS that you guys dish out, but this was all uncalled for. Everyone of us does something different to our rigs and are entitled to each of our own opinions. Yeah I may have purchased something more expensive than what I should have, or could have gone a different route, but I didn't. DEAL WITH IT!!!! I am not that well versed in the mechanics of braking systems, so I let someone else work out all the details and all I have to do is install it. IF I screwed up I will be the first one to admit it, and will have to find an alternative braking method.
So instead of attacking each other, how about posting something positive, and learn from each other.
Pam
So instead of attacking each other, how about posting something positive, and learn from each other.
Pam
agreed and to the fullest, specific stuff was TAKEN off privately and it was done as such. little spill back on but all done
"expensive" is relative.
reman hydro $150 range+ core
reman master is $50 range+ core
each line is probably $20 a shot and some pressure
lines are $40 a shot.
good used completely stock setup like this, would probably be around $100 plus average.
Yours looks great used, to possibly was a reman setup, lines look newer for sure.
Then already made to plug and play basically, is worth alot.
more expensive then finding a used setup and doing it all yourself, maybe, but alot
less work and no real guessing with just buying this already done.
"expensive" is relative.
reman hydro $150 range+ core
reman master is $50 range+ core
each line is probably $20 a shot and some pressure
lines are $40 a shot.
good used completely stock setup like this, would probably be around $100 plus average.
Yours looks great used, to possibly was a reman setup, lines look newer for sure.
Then already made to plug and play basically, is worth alot.
more expensive then finding a used setup and doing it all yourself, maybe, but alot
less work and no real guessing with just buying this already done.
- Thread starter
- #17
Thank you for resolving your "tiff" elsewhere.
Here is the break down of the cost for the system.
$100. for HB and MC
$56. for the 2" stainless spacer
$50. for the hoses
$20. for adapting the hoses to the HB
$8. for the 3/8" barbed hose T fitting
$234. total
Plus he included a template for the firewall for drilling, and instructions.
Pam
Here is the break down of the cost for the system.
$100. for HB and MC
$56. for the 2" stainless spacer
$50. for the hoses
$20. for adapting the hoses to the HB
$8. for the 3/8" barbed hose T fitting
$234. total
Plus he included a template for the firewall for drilling, and instructions.
Pam