LOL
LT I edited the post above dotn know if you cought it or not
LT I edited the post above dotn know if you cought it or not
hub temps
- Thread starter lovetoski
- Start date
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THis should be under the "loose wheel bearing" post. I added mine to it.
just tested my temps on my 35 mile mostly freeway commute, I was able to not touch the brakes after the freeway porion until I pulled in the parking lot, then several low speed brakings in the parking lot (>5mph)
ambient according to weather.com is 77, I think temps on major roads are likely in the upper 80's though
hubs
LF 106
RF 110
LR 110
RR 111
tire tread:
LF 109
RF 110
LR 114
RR 111
bumper 91
most of the wheels were arround 96 except for the RR witch was 103 :???:
ambient according to weather.com is 77, I think temps on major roads are likely in the upper 80's though
hubs
LF 106
RF 110
LR 110
RR 111
tire tread:
LF 109
RF 110
LR 114
RR 111
bumper 91
most of the wheels were arround 96 except for the RR witch was 103 :???:
RT and LT, Thanks for clearing that up for me. I thought that maybe since the number was the same that the in/lb was a mistake. I also thought that checking the preload off the fins in the rotor was a bad idea, just wanted to get some clarification.
I wound up resetting the adjusting nut with the socket in my hand and then setting the torque on the lock nut with the wrench. Kinda going back to how it should feel.
I wound up resetting the adjusting nut with the socket in my hand and then setting the torque on the lock nut with the wrench. Kinda going back to how it should feel.
Tooth Fairy said:
The preload is set of the studs, not the fins. Since the fins are farther out on the hub, a 6-12 pound tension at the "fins" would result in significantly less preload to the bearings than would the same tension if measured at the studs, since the fins are almost twice the distance from the center... Make sure you use the studs and not the fins.
Tom
scottm
SILVER Star
I'm sure the hub nut must move inboard some when tightening the lock nut. If you tighten the lock nut to the same torque as the hub nut, then increase to spec, you know the locknut moved inboard and the hubnut moves a little too. I fight with this sometimes at work getting a bushing just right. It's just trial and error the way I read the FSM.
So that was your rig!!!
I forgot to add the lowpro tires tooo
I deliver on Friday morning. Be through Holland on Thr night.
You can buy dinner at thay new Stake House neer Target
I forgot to add the lowpro tires tooo
I deliver on Friday morning. Be through Holland on Thr night.
You can buy dinner at thay new Stake House neer Target
Just to clarify, I didn't say "too hot to touch", but "too hot to touch for long" which probably equates to Tooth Fairy's "too hot to hold". Mine are not hot enough to burn my fingers, but definitely uncomfortably hot. I suspect much of my heat is due to braking as I've never tried to stop without generating brake heat.
My objective is to be informed of a difference between wheels to alert me of a bearing issue. These "hot" temps I experience on hot summer days when towing. On a normal trip simply laden with gear they're not quite as warm. I think it's a good exercise to be aware and can help if you're worried about preload, dragging calipers or wheel bearing issues.
Raven, those are nice even temps. Astonishingly so, really.
DougM
My objective is to be informed of a difference between wheels to alert me of a bearing issue. These "hot" temps I experience on hot summer days when towing. On a normal trip simply laden with gear they're not quite as warm. I think it's a good exercise to be aware and can help if you're worried about preload, dragging calipers or wheel bearing issues.
Raven, those are nice even temps. Astonishingly so, really.
DougM
- Thread starter
- #29
accuracy of the flashpoint IR temp guage
Hi all,
A question was asked about whether this device was accurate in measuring hub temps, if there were other hot items (like brake discs) nearby. I had a few back and forth emails with the tech support folks who make this item, and have condensed a few answers to the below quote. My most recent email to them is also pasted below. Despite some questions from me as to the arc through which the device captures IR, they didn't answer that specifically. However, their answer does seem to suggest that this is an accurate tool.
<<
Hello,
Thank you for your recent e-mail. The recommended distance to accurately use your
>Flashpoint heat gun is 1 foot away from target. It will read the actual temperature
of the area that you are pointing the temp gauge at.
Thanks for writing!
Sincerely,
Craig
Product Support
Hi,
Say that you are measuring the temp of a surface that is 4 ft
wide, and is hotter on the left than on the right. If you know that the temp
in the middle is 100C, and that one foot to the left is 40C higher and one
foot to the right is 10C lower, what will the IR device read? Will it read
the actual temp in the middle, or will it average the three spots (140,
100, 90).
Thanks for your help.
Best Regards,
Doug Graham
>>
fine>>st products.
Hi all,
A question was asked about whether this device was accurate in measuring hub temps, if there were other hot items (like brake discs) nearby. I had a few back and forth emails with the tech support folks who make this item, and have condensed a few answers to the below quote. My most recent email to them is also pasted below. Despite some questions from me as to the arc through which the device captures IR, they didn't answer that specifically. However, their answer does seem to suggest that this is an accurate tool.
<<
Hello,
Thank you for your recent e-mail. The recommended distance to accurately use your
>Flashpoint heat gun is 1 foot away from target. It will read the actual temperature
of the area that you are pointing the temp gauge at.
Thanks for writing!
Sincerely,
Craig
Product Support
Hi,
Say that you are measuring the temp of a surface that is 4 ft
wide, and is hotter on the left than on the right. If you know that the temp
in the middle is 100C, and that one foot to the left is 40C higher and one
foot to the right is 10C lower, what will the IR device read? Will it read
the actual temp in the middle, or will it average the three spots (140,
100, 90).
Thanks for your help.
Best Regards,
Doug Graham
>>
fine>>st products.
The IR temp guages read surface temp not ambient (air) temp, right?
A way to tell would be to take a torch and run it though the IR light and along side of the light and see what happens.
A way to tell would be to take a torch and run it though the IR light and along side of the light and see what happens.
Yeah, that's interesting that they didn't get more specific though you weren't specific in asking the "sensing beam width". I'd specifically ask them at their one foot recommended distance how large of an area is being read - as in how many inches wide is the sample area being read.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but radiated heat is linear (like a light wave, right?) so a hot spot like a superheated rotor that's next to the spot you're reading would not affect the reading. So, if they'll tell you the size of the area (in inches of diameter) then you'll have a much better handle on using the gun.
DougM
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but radiated heat is linear (like a light wave, right?) so a hot spot like a superheated rotor that's next to the spot you're reading would not affect the reading. So, if they'll tell you the size of the area (in inches of diameter) then you'll have a much better handle on using the gun.
DougM
scottm
SILVER Star
It's fairly linear, those infared pics of houses showing hot spots are an example of straight-line radiation. If it weren't linear the heat would just wash over the receptors evenly, and you'd get one solid color picture.
I'm not sure what is meant in this context by the usage of the word "linear". Infrared radiation is the same thing as light, but is not visible to human eyes. Being light the radiation spreads out, the beam becoming wider the further the distance from the heat source.
The infrared thermal thermometer uses a lens to focus the radiation on the sensor. The design the lens determines how wide of a "view" the thermometer has at any given distance. If the hub and the rotor disk are both within the angle of view of the thermometer then they both will affect the temp measurement. The thermometer needs to be close enough to the hub so that the hub entirely fills the thermometer's field of view in order for it to accurately measure its temp.
The infrared thermal thermometer uses a lens to focus the radiation on the sensor. The design the lens determines how wide of a "view" the thermometer has at any given distance. If the hub and the rotor disk are both within the angle of view of the thermometer then they both will affect the temp measurement. The thermometer needs to be close enough to the hub so that the hub entirely fills the thermometer's field of view in order for it to accurately measure its temp.
IR is just like a regular color but you can't see it. Sensor can work just like a camera. You can get the dimensions of the field of view (cone of vision) too if you want. An IR camera will show an image. An IR thermometer will average out the temperature over the cone of vision including hot spots. And as mentioned, you can't get any accurate measurements if you don't know the emissivity of the material.
Anyway, it's a moot point, you can buy a surface thermometer for less than $50 which will measure the surface temperature locally over just a couple of mm across. Or if you have a good multimeter with thermocouple capabilities, just stick the thermocouple on the surface and hold it there with some insulation material. Much more accurate than IR.
I'll use my surface thermometer to check my hubs for fun since it seemed like the one I just repacked was much cooler than the other side.
E
Anyway, it's a moot point, you can buy a surface thermometer for less than $50 which will measure the surface temperature locally over just a couple of mm across. Or if you have a good multimeter with thermocouple capabilities, just stick the thermocouple on the surface and hold it there with some insulation material. Much more accurate than IR.
I'll use my surface thermometer to check my hubs for fun since it seemed like the one I just repacked was much cooler than the other side.
E
The "Blue Point" IR gun I have (made by RAYTEK) gives the cone dimensions, 1"@8" away, 2"@16 3"@24 ect, so when I am close to the hub it should only show hub temp, the problem is the hub is bolted to the rotor, if the rotor is hot the heat will warm the hub through conduction
As for the air question it is about 70* outside tonight when pointed at the sky it reads 28* you have to go pretty high to reach cold air like that, seams to me that it takes a lot of air to affect the reading, so the small amount of air between the gun and the hub should make not make much difference at all
As for the air question it is about 70* outside tonight when pointed at the sky it reads 28* you have to go pretty high to reach cold air like that, seams to me that it takes a lot of air to affect the reading, so the small amount of air between the gun and the hub should make not make much difference at all
Funny how many of you guys chimed in while I was pondering this and watching the Tour. Since it (heat) moves in a straight line then a hot rotor OUT of the field of vision would actually affect the temperature it reads. This is because even though the cone of vision is pointed at a certain spot, I would think heat coming from even larger angles would hit the lense. In other words, even though the lense is "looking" only at a certain spot, other spots outside of its field of view are radiating heat energy into the lense. Make sense?
As an analogy, imagine looking into a completely dark room through a cardboard paper towel tube. No light emitted into the tube. Now turn on a light 45 degrees outside of the spot you can see and there will be light entering the tube. You cannot directly see the light, but it is sending light into the tube opening.
So, I'd be curious if the rotor outside of the cone of the heat gun's reading area can still send heat into its lense and impact the reading in the same way as my cardboard tube example. I agree with the surface temp reader being the best.
Speaking of temps and such, I just ordered a WIRELESS indoor/outdoor temp guage for the house to replace our 10 year old model that just died. Wireless. For $29 delivered. That's amazing. The thing has an 85 foot range, so I can put the sensor out where the sun will never hit it regardless of season and put the display in my master bathroom. I'm hoping it can handle at least one wall in the way of the signal, but if not there is another spot. Cool, eh?
DougM
As an analogy, imagine looking into a completely dark room through a cardboard paper towel tube. No light emitted into the tube. Now turn on a light 45 degrees outside of the spot you can see and there will be light entering the tube. You cannot directly see the light, but it is sending light into the tube opening.
So, I'd be curious if the rotor outside of the cone of the heat gun's reading area can still send heat into its lense and impact the reading in the same way as my cardboard tube example. I agree with the surface temp reader being the best.
Speaking of temps and such, I just ordered a WIRELESS indoor/outdoor temp guage for the house to replace our 10 year old model that just died. Wireless. For $29 delivered. That's amazing. The thing has an 85 foot range, so I can put the sensor out where the sun will never hit it regardless of season and put the display in my master bathroom. I'm hoping it can handle at least one wall in the way of the signal, but if not there is another spot. Cool, eh?
DougM
scottm
SILVER Star
Dad got me one of those, it's a projector clock too. Still haven't gotten the temp sensor past my window sill. Almost had you beat on something there.
