How tough to weld aluminum with spoolgun?

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I may have a chance to pickup a Miller Spoolmate 200 for a good deal. Supposedly its a direct connect to my MM 251. I've gotten pretty decent at basic mig welding steel but am I kidding myself to think I might be able to get decent results with this setup on aluminum? I know I'd need to switch to argon.
 
They are good for thin flat pieces like boat hills. Not so good for tube, tight spaces and thick pieces.
 
I'd pass on the one spoolmate 200. Get a spoolmatic 15A or 30A for the MM 251.
 
I'd pass on the one spoolmate 200. Get a spoolmatic 15A or 30A for the MM 251.
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X2 ^^ I have the 30A and use it on .055" wall up to 1/4" aluminum.

If you are just gonna weld aluminum occasionally.. then a spool gun or TIG is the way to go. But, if you're using it everyday.. I'd recommend a push/pull gun like a Aluma Pro XR.. IMO...

Good Luck!

J
 
What the spool gun does is pretty simple. All it has to do is have a valve control for the gas, a set of drivers that can push out the wire, and contact tip to energize the wire. I'm not sure why a more expensive model would be any better for occasional use. More durable? Sure. I just can't see any actual advantage in terms of useability.

I find spool gun welding much easier on aluminum than tig and a lot faster too. The biggest issue is the physical size of the gun and how hard it is to get into tight areas.
 
What the spool gun does is pretty simple. All it has to do is have a valve control for the gas, a set of drivers that can push out the wire, and contact tip to energize the wire. I'm not sure why a more expensive model would be any better for occasional use. More durable? Sure. I just can't see any actual advantage in terms of useability.

I find spool gun welding much easier on aluminum than tig and a lot faster too. The biggest issue is the physical size of the gun and how hard it is to get into tight areas.

15/30A spoolgun is rated for 200amp at 100% duty cycle. Spoolmate 200 is rated for 160amps at 60% duty cycle. If you plan on doing lots of high amperage work, then the spoolmatic 15/30A is a better choice.
15/30A also will give you better contact tip/nozzle option than the spoolmate 200.

For getting into tight places and production work, I'd use a push/pull setup. Milller Alumapro or Python gun. Nice setup, but very expensive.
 
As a result of this thread, I was able to pick up a barely used Spoolmatic 30A from another board member for a good deal. In my initital trial I attempted to lay down a bead on a flat piece of 1/8 scrap. I cleaned w/ a stainless brush and was able to put down a halfway decent bead on the first pass but burned through on the second when I hesitated a moment. So first impression is that I'm going to have to move a lot faster than with steel. It also seemed like the recommended settings (19.0V & 450% for .030 wire) were excessive although I know it's only a recommended starting point and I can play with it.

I also noted that the wire speed starts out slow and after about 4 seconds greatly picks up speed - is that normal? It's actually the feed motor that speeds up and not a wire slippage/feed issue.

Any thoughts, suggestions, tips, etc for a total newbie aluminum welder would be much appreciated.
 
Yes, it is normal. Once the aluminum heats up, you have to move out. It is a lot different than steel, so practice, practice practice and then test, test, test.
 
Yes, it is normal. Once the aluminum heats up, you have to move out. It is a lot different than steel, so practice, practice practice and then test, test, test.

Agree with Pin_head... You need to weld it hot and fast. But not too fast or the wire/filler metal won't fuze/penetrate the base metal. It looks like its a good weld but, it breaks off and is just laid on top or just barely together.

What cover/shielding gas are you using and what wire? I use a 99.9% Argon and 4043 or 5356 wire and around a 20-30 CFH flow rate on that shield gas. Don't use a Co2/ Argon or other blend cover gasses.

Also, watching your technique will help as well.. Push the gun with a slight angle back from the puddle but, not much (10 to 20 degree angle) The sould should be similar to a hissing or "bacon sizzling" sound.. This should be close to what is called spray transfer and needed for aluminum welding.

Most beginners tend to drag or pull the gun. This usually ends with dirty worm hole welds.

Hope this helps. YES, practice makes PERFECT. Be patient, relax, and take breaks while learning to use this new equipment. If you find yourself getting frustrated.. STOP.. go smoke a cig, have a soda pop, or leave it and come back later on after you have relaxed.

J
 
I've found as a casual aluminum welder the aluminum you are welding has to be 100% free of oxidation. That in and of itself made a big difference for me coming from steel MIG.
 
Thanks guys, that helps alot. I'm using straight argon @ 25 CFH, 4043 wire, and pushing. I know I'll need a lot of practice but was more surprised by the difference from steel than expected. Pretty sure I can get the hang of it though.

You're were doing spray transfer. Welding steel would be very similar using the same process.
 
I've found as a casual aluminum welder the aluminum you are welding has to be 100% free of oxidation. That in and of itself made a big difference for me coming from steel MIG.

I had read that and hit the area I practiced on with a clean stainless brush. Just out of curiosity I tried laying down a bead on an area that hadn't been cleaned and there was a huge difference. Thanks again ;)!
 
Second attempt turned out better. Two pieces of 1/4 x 1 bar beveled. Started to just tack but ran with it. A little gap at the start and went back to try to fill it in hence the extra puddle. 4" went real fast but I think I can make this work.


 

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