How to unlock a locked locker?

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The flange transfers the power from the turning axle to the wheel hub. On a part time four wheel drive they are usually unlockable, but an AWD needs to have all four hubs locked all of the time as the power will be transfered to the wheel that turns easiest when the difs are unlocked. When you remove one it will allow that wheel to turn at slower or faster speeds than the driven wheel, giving you much easier turning.
If your locker decided to unlock while you have a drive plate off, you would not go anywhere until you reinstalled it.
 
the drive flange is what connects the wheel to the outer axle shaft, with one removed that wheel is no longer connected to the driveline, an interesting way to do this would be to replace your drive flanges with Aisin hubs, they are a direct bolt on in the front, the rear would require custom axle shafts but still fits the stud pattern of the hub

not sure the actuator or drive flange would be easier to remove, both would leave gaping holes where dust could get into working parts
 
makes sense, Gumby.
and that would not result in serious issues on asphalt like the axle end flopping about or the wheel falling off etc, right?
good to know!

Junk, ya gotta put this thread in the FAQ for sure now, if only somebody could add a nice photo or diagram of the locker actuator cover and the moving pin inside...

RT, couldn't you put the actuator cover back on after you pull the "pin" back? So no hole...

E
 
Cone washers are the devil and the bane of my existance. If I had spares I'd mercilessly rip them apart... I don't, so I beat them w/ a 5lb sledge and a big brass drift. Those things sure are persistent for only 22 or so ft/lbs.
 
[quote author=e9999 link=board=2;threadid=13988;start=msg130794#msg130794 date=1080831249]
makes sense, Gumby.
and that would not result in serious issues on asphalt like the axle end flopping about or the wheel falling off etc, right?
good to know!

Junk, ya gotta put this thread in the FAQ for sure now, if only somebody could add a nice photo or diagram of the locker actuator cover and the moving pin inside...

RT, couldn't you put the actuator cover back on after you pull the "pin" back? So no hole...

E
[/quote]

yea I gues that would work, I thouhgt you meant remove the actuator and leave it off, all 4 corners on the later 80's and the fronts on the earlier 80's are known as "full Floating" the wheel is supported an a spindle the axle shaft only porovides rotating force it does not support the weight of the truck or retain the wheel in any way, the other style "semi Floating" (rears on the early 80's) the axleshaft both drives and supports the vehickle,
 
[quote author=RavenTai link=board=2;threadid=13988;start=msg130793#msg130793 date=1080831200]
an interesting way to do this would be to replace your drive flanges with Aisin hubs, they are a direct bolt on in the front, the rear would require custom axle shafts but still fits the stud pattern of the hub

not sure the actuator or drive flange would be easier to remove, both would leave gaping holes where dust could get into working parts
[/quote]

I was thinking the exact same thing but then I realized that this is crazy to mod your hubs to handle the corner case of the locker failing to disengage. Man that's anal.

The cone washers are on my unfav list as well.

It's probably good to consider all of the above if it ever happens in the field but that's all the effort I'll spend on it.

I'm moving on to the PHH & flushing for spring. Eh Simon ;)
and Greg knows I still haven't done my starter contacts. :rolleyes:

Riley
 
I guess that I'm strange but the cone washers never seem to be an issue for me.

The method I prefer to use to remove them is to use a hammer to give the edge of the flange a "smart tap" to pop the cones. I find that one or two passes around the flange does the trick. loosen the nuts but leave a couple threads on to keep the cones from flying away.

Here is a pic:
 
LOL that is because you have the SST Toyota issue ball peen hammer :o




my brass hammer seams to do the trick also


BTW how much wold it caost to get new dust caps liek that? mine are :flipoff2: 'd up by the previous mechs
 
Them aint new tatercakes. :D I just look after them :D


They are not expensive, if memory serves it is less than 5 bucks a piece. I'm not in the office today so I can't give you a hard number but I'm close.

D-
 
I want one of those Toyota hammers! There would have to be good cone washer karma using a Toyota ballpeen. CDan next parts order, remind me.

e9999-I would stop posting here and tear your front axle apart. You will learn more in 5 minutes than in hours of posting to the board. Seriously, you are obviously a curious guy and want to understand the Cruiser, so tear into it, order some parts, and be happy. Don't let these guys scare you about the cone washers, they come right out. The inside of the hub and knuckle is logical, even elegant. The knowledge you will gain is priceless. It amazes me, that the basic knuckle design stayed the same from the late 60's untill 1997(and even beyond in the current 70 series). Even most of the fasteners, cone washers,bearings, etc interchange, so once you tear it apart, you will understand 30 years of Toyota thinking on this topic. :cheers:
 
I guess I've always been a wuss and used the brass drift or maybe my brass hammer on the flanges. I seem to remember that once I gave it convincing blows, it was ok.

Sometimes it doesn'y pay to be shy. :whoops:
 
Mother of crap! I sure wished some of these pics or links still worked. Need to unlock a front locker so i can remove the 3rd member, axle is completely off and disassembled so no way to plug in the harness...??
Please i've been searching for 2 days but my patience is dwindling.
 
Well I do not know what your problem is, you need the front locker locked to remove the axle. If you do not know if it is locked or not. Remove the electric module and you should be able to move the shaft under the module.
Where is you FSM? That would help
 
Maybe im missing it but the fsm has nothing about the actuator or removing the third with a locked axle. I was going to pull off the motor but i want to be sure which bolts remove the locker itself. It's an expensive mistake if i booger something up.
 
Pull the position indicator switch and you have access to the fork and you should be able to move it with a prybar.
 
or just go like me and put an aussie locker in the rear and be locked all the time!
 
Already locked in rear...this is for the front buddy ;)
 
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