How to test a AC compressor

[Elbert]

agree with the above.

About any old A/C system needs a new dryer and to do that you need to pull the old freon out and replace the dryer and associated oil and then pull a vaccum for a while...then recharge. There are certain things you look for but you will need a set of gauges.

 

[Dieseler]

If I get to where I have to replace the dryer I will convert it over from R12 to 134

 

[Wile E Coyote]

If I get to where I have to replace the dryer I will convert it over from R12 to 134[/QUOTE.]

That's cool, but an aftermarket R/D is seriously only about $25. It's a simple piece and I don't see a need to go OEM Toy, if the price of such is driving your decision making.
Here's to many trouble free summers with an ice cold ac with what you've done so far!

 

[Dieseler]

The rad/AC guy I talked to last week said if I wanted to do the conversion he said I could keep my original dryer assuming it is functioning properly he says it's called a dirty conversion but can be done to save cost all that needs to be done is change out all the old O rings and the fittings which is the cheapest route for comfort.
The wife is happy she has cold air now it helps with her hot flashes to me it doesn't make much difference I just roll down the windows.

 

[Elbert]

there is no value saving an old dryer.... given the age of the vehicle and the low cost of the dryer itself. If you have access to R12 freon I would just stay the course with that, but if you replace any parts on teh a/c system or discharge the freon...get a new dryer as part of the deal.

 

[Coolstream]

FWIW, a new aftermarket drier compatible with R134a is $15.27, the two good, steel, conversion fittings for the service ports are $5.14 each and an 8 oz. bottle of PAG46 oil is $8.39. So to do a proper retro-fit, if you need to, would run about $35 plus some flush for the condenser and you're still under $50 plus the R134a.