How to remove RH inner fender?

[kcjaz]

I totally mashed my passenger fender about a month ago. I'm still going in circles with insurance but started to pull off the mashed parts this afternoon as I may be doing part of the work myself and was wanting to get an idea what I'd be getting into. The inner fender doesn't look as easy to remove as I was hoping. It appears to be riveted or spot welded in may locations. I think these would just drill out but I'm not really sure as I've never done something like this before. I did find some info on this in the 100 Series forum but the 100 drivers side seems a lot simpler with only 2 rivets. Here are some pics:

Here is what the parts look like:

I'm having trouble figuring out where the inner fender stops and other parts start. I'm temped to just go buy the part so I can see it before start dripping out rivets. Anyone done this on a 200?

 

[bloc]

I’d be really surprised if it is riveted in, given the potential for leaks into the passenger compartment. Most likely welded. I’d also assume the welds go down along the firewall.

My 80 was bolt-on, but there was a welded rib from the compartment at the end of the firewall that protruded out into the engine bay that the inner fender attached to. Nothing like that on the 200.

I’m not sure how body shops handle these spot welds on the vehicle to be repaired. Drilling them out means the new welds need to be perfect to seal out water. Destroying the part to be removed so that careful use of a grinder can remove the remains of the part while preserving the integrity of the underlying panel seems logical.. but again I’m not sure. Just guessing.

 

[kcjaz]

I’d be really surprised if it is riveted in, given the potential for leaks into the passenger compartment. Most likely welded. I’d also assume the welds go down along the firewall.

My 80 was bolt-on, but there was a welded rib from the compartment at the end of the firewall that protruded out into the engine bay that the inner fender attached to. Nothing like that on the 200.

I’m not sure how body shops handle these spot welds on the vehicle to be repaired. Drilling them out means the new welds need to be perfect to seal out water. Destroying the part to be removed so that careful use of a grinder can remove the remains of the part while preserving the integrity of the underlying panel seems logical.. but again I’m not sure. Just guessing.

Upon closer look those circles are more likely spot welds. I think they could be drilled out and portions removed but you’d never get a spot welder in there for the new parts. I need to take it to someone who knows that they are doing and at least get done pro advice.

On the up side, I think 37s will fit now.

 

[bloc]

Upon closer look those circles are more likely spot welds. I think they could be drilled out and portions removed but you’d never get a spot welder in there for the new parts. I need to take it to someone who knows that they are doing and at least get done pro advice.

On the up side, I think 37s will fit now.

They probably drill the new part where the spots would be then MIG the ID of that hole to the main body. That’s a guess also, but based on years working in a fabrication shop.

 

[cjmoon]

They make special drill bits for spot weld removal. Then a new panel is welded in with mig tack welds. From the through holes.

I’ll look believe we have some at my shop.

 

[kcjaz]

They make special drill bits for spot weld removal. Then a new panel is welded in with mig tack welds. From the through holes.

I’ll look believe we have some at my shop.

Thanks, you are definitely on my list to call. Made a little progress with insurance today. I think my hopes of getting the rig patched up enough for LCDC are shot as our summer trip up north then to Colorado starts on July 4th. Looks like we will be in the TACO for LCDC. Any chance we could fab up some sliders for the TACO next week?

 

[turbo8]

Run fenderless.

I replaced my core support on my 4runner 10 years ago. I had to drill out all the spot welds, straighten some sheetmetal, and tack weld in the new core support. Insurance would have totaled it and gave me a couple thousand dollars.

This is when I started making my own parts as I was so disappointed with they way the front end crumbled during a slow speed accident with a Hyundai Elantra.

A week after I fixed the 4runnner, I was rear ended and pushed into another car. Fortunately I welded in a strong front crossmember and damaged was minimal.

Take your time, it's worth the work!

 

[grinchy]

A few episodes of a show like B is for Build or similar will show you how to do this. They're forever removing and replacing spot welded body panels.