Hello everyone, I did some searching and could not find the answer to my question. Where is the relay and how do I jump power directly to my AC condenser clutch? I am trying to diagnose why my AC unit isn't working. It worked fine last season, but clutch is no longer engaging. I purchased a recharge kit, but from what I understand, you need to jump the clutch in order to make everything work again. Thanks for any help
How to jump AC clutch?
- Thread starter slowLC
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If your compressor is not engaging, then more than likely you are low our out of freon. There is a High/Low pressure switch that keeps it from engaging. If you add a can of refrigerant, your compressor should cycle on. After 1 can of freon, I would then spray down all the line connections with soapy water to look for bubbles. You could have an O-ring leaking at one of the connections. The O-rings are found at the firewall transition (passenger side), on top of the dryer (driver's front side), both sides of the condenser (behind grill both sides) and a gasket on top of the compressor. Anyway, that's the ones I change out. Haven't had to deal with the evaporator yet (under and behind glove box).
If you find a leak, then I would replace the O-ring(s), change the dryer, and pull a vacuum on it. Make sure your vacuum gauge holds at around 28 psi for an hour or so. If not you still have a leak.
You can jump a 12 volt wire to the AC clutch wire (the one with the plastic connector) temporarily to just test the clutch engagement. If you do so with the engine not running, you can then turn the compressor pulley by hand to make sure your compressor isn't locked up.
BTW, there is no reason for you to have to jump the clutch to make everything work again.
If you find a leak, then I would replace the O-ring(s), change the dryer, and pull a vacuum on it. Make sure your vacuum gauge holds at around 28 psi for an hour or so. If not you still have a leak.
You can jump a 12 volt wire to the AC clutch wire (the one with the plastic connector) temporarily to just test the clutch engagement. If you do so with the engine not running, you can then turn the compressor pulley by hand to make sure your compressor isn't locked up.
BTW, there is no reason for you to have to jump the clutch to make everything work again.
Sounds like the high low pressure switch is bad. You can bypass it by either installing a jumper wire in the connector or wiring the two wires going to it together. This worked on my sons 92 for about 7 years or so until it developed a leak on a condenser oring. Then a new compressor, switch and orings were replaced.
I would try using a jumper wire first. Locate the high/low pressure switch. This is located behind the drivers head light. Unplug the black wiring connector going to it. Notice the two wires going into the connector. Insert a wire or paperclip into the two contact points in the connector where the switch plugs in.
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Im a little confused about this, am I going to disconnect the switch and then jump a hot wire to the far side of the high/low pressure switch?
If you don't know how a switch works or how to follow those directions you probably shouldn't even try. You're on the road to seizing up a compressor or blowing fuses by the sounds of things.
Umm...not to be that guy who adds nothing to a conversation...but I doubt the OP has access to "freon" or the necessary equipment to deal with it. Being a 95 I would think (and could be mistaken) that the refrigerant would be R134a, in which case the OP needs to use caution. Some of, if not most R134 DIY kits have PAG oil already in them and you can really easily add too much oil using the DIY method, which can cause issues. And if you do have an R12 system and somehow managed to get past the different schrader valve and managed to load your system with R134 then you have compatibility issues. If you can get a length of wire that will reach from the positive terminal of your battery to the signal wire leading into your compressor, you can force the clutch on that way. But I would do it while the engine isn't running and listen for the audible clunk of the magnetic clutch engaging. Do this quickly, don't just hold the wire on there. If the clutch is good, chances are you have a leak...don't just go pumping can upon can of R134 into the system, use system UV dye r134 and the penlight and glasses to find the leak. Repair the leak and replace your drier because if there is no system pressure, atmospheric pressure wins and you get a drier full of moisture which will cause the system to be terribly inefficient or to not work at all.
Do not put a hot wire in the switch connector. Just do as I stated, or you could cut the two wires going to the switch and connect them together with a wire nut. I would recommend against doing so, just insert a paperclip (shaped like a U) into the connector's two contact points.
What was the outcome of your problem? I'm curious as I'm sure many others are now that summer is here and our AC suddenly doesn't work. 