How to install a Fuel Filler neck? (2 Viewers)

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Feb 9, 2013
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North Jersey
My current fuel filler neck has rust holes in it. patching is no longer the answer. I have managed to find a new used one and its in great shape! So I'm under there and about to cut the old one out when i realized that the new one...how the heck will it find its way in place? its long and bendy and tucked between the frame and the body in one place. So I want to ask if anyone can advise from experience how to fish the new one into place? many thanks if you can help?

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Short of lifting the body off the frame, I don't think it's possible since it doesn't flex. I fought a similar problem when installing my aux tank that came with a dual filler assy. I think you'll need to cut it just before it turns upward to the filler. First find hoses of the correct diameter to connect it back together. I would cut it as shown with red line. Also make sure for safety's sake, do all your cutting away from the fuel fumes.
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More info here
 
Could cutting the pipe (cut off wheel, hacksaw) cause a spark and explosion?? Should the tank be drained, cleaned, purged before cutting?
 
Could cutting the pipe (cut off wheel, hacksaw) cause a spark and explosion?? Should the tank be drained, cleaned, purged before cutting?
I've seen people recommend a non-sparking hacksaw blade in the threads about switching to dual-tank filler necks.

If OP is planning on replacing the entire filler tube, not just the vertical section, then he'd presumably need to drop the tank to separate the filler neck from the rubber hose joining it to the tank. In that case, he'll want it pretty much empty.

Even with the tank removed completely, I still wouldn't use anything other than a non-sparking hacksaw blade on the filler neck. And with the tank in place, I've read that more air in the tank just means more oxygen to increase fire risk, but I'm no fireologist.
 
I've seen people recommend a non-sparking hacksaw blade in the threads about switching to dual-tank filler necks.

If OP is planning on replacing the entire filler tube, not just the vertical section, then he'd presumably need to drop the tank to separate the filler neck from the rubber hose joining it to the tank. In that case, he'll want it pretty much empty.

Even with the tank removed completely, I still wouldn't use anything other than a non-sparking hacksaw blade on the filler neck. And with the tank in place, I've read that more air in the tank just means more oxygen to increase fire risk, but I'm no fireologist.
No need to drop the tank to replace the rubber hoses. I used a hacksaw, no issues for me.
 
Hacksaw on the rubber hose, or on the metal filler pipe??
 
It would be nice to hear back from the OP @goddahooch as to progress from all this advice. For me it was not necessary to lift body to remove the filler pipe assy. If you 1st remove the 2 bolts (driver's side can be just loosened) from the floorpan about mid pipe. Then remove/loosen hose clamps on vent tube and filler pipe at the tank. Slide filler pipe assy back far enough to clear from tank tube ends. Be sure to keep debris out of tank tubes. Temporarily plug ends of tank vent tube and filler pipe to seal in fuel fumes. Be sure gas cap is removed from top of assy. If working area is outside or in well vented garage, filler pipe assy is now reasonably safe to cut on with sawzall or other power tool. It will be necessary to cut it to remove old assy. With this method, it will also be necessary to cut replacement assy to install it. It would be best to make your cut on a straight section.

Choose one of the two that I would suggest in this pic:
IMG_2049_LI (2).jpg


I had to do the right one due to the dual filler tube supplied by LRA when I installed my 24 gal aux tank. Either one will work. I think the left one would be easier to install the connecting hose sections to patch the assy.
 
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Hello to all the contributors!
Many thanks to all of you for giving the info to help me determine the path forward for me. (and for not spotting the rust and telling me that my truck is junk parts at best)
so the plan....once i get back from vacation in a few weeks.
i will carefully remove the hoses to the tank and block it off safely. cut the old one out. reinstall the new pipe with a cut near the bend and a splice of rubber tubing. will order the rubber tubing today so im ready. and when i return and the snow is about 12" deep ill be ready to dig in to this!
thanks to all.
more info later.
 

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