How to adjust hand brake cable in 200 series toyota land cruiser ?

[kcjaz]

So I did the park brake adjustment line the video and it seemed easy enough. During the process I noticed that the passenger side star wheel adjustor was installed the opposite as the driver side. I didn't think that would make any difference other than you have to spin the adjuster wheel the other way to tighten it compared to what the FSM says. That how I figured out it was backwards.

I got it adjusted and it held on a hill but just barely. I didn't have time to mess with it any more and I drove it 140 miles home. I noticed that I could hear a rubbing sound on corners at 35/40 mph. When I got home, it would not hold the car on my steep drive way. I think the main issue is that I didn't quite get it set tight enough. The process, while simple isn't exactly precise. You tighten the adjustment until you cant rotate the hub then back off 6 to 8 "clicks" except there is no "click". You do this by feel as you cant hear or see anything as you do it.

Could the backwards adjustor be affecting something? Could that have anything to do with the rubbing in corners I hear? This is what I'm talking about:

it does thread on only one side but I think it still just pushes both pads the same.

Edit: the screwed end should face to the rear.

here's another good video should how to install the pads:

 

[bloc]

So I did the park brake adjustment line the video and it seemed easy enough. During the process I noticed that the passenger side star wheel adjustor was installed the opposite as the driver side. I didn't think that would make any difference other than you have to spin the adjuster wheel the other way to tighten it compared to what the FSM says. That how I figured out it was backwards.

I got it adjusted and it held on a hill but just barely. I didn't have time to mess with it any more and I drove it 140 miles home. I noticed that I could hear a rubbing sound on corners at 35/40 mph. When I got home, it would not hold the car on my steep drive way. I think the main issue is that I didn't quite get it set tight enough. The process, while simple isn't exactly precise. You tighten the adjustment until you cant rotate the hub then back off 6 to 8 "clicks" except there is no "click". You do this by feel as you cant hear or see anything as you do it.

Could the backwards adjustor be affecting something? Could that have anything to do with the rubbing in corners I hear? This is what I'm talking about:
View attachment 3673001
it does thread on only one side but I think it still just pushes both pads the same.

Edit: the screwed end should face to the rear.
View attachment 3673073

here's another good video should how to install the pads:

Did you pull the cup holder and set the cable nut to the number of handle clicks at 45# force as well? That step is very important to getting it all right. Before I realized this I was having to deviate from 6-8. I do also suspect that number works better for new parking brake shoes and rotors than used.

No there isn’t much of a “click” but with a flashlight and some contortionist practice you can see what screwdriver movement advances the star wheel by one tooth, and just learn that movement. Then you can reliably adjust one at a time.

 

[kcjaz]

Did you pull the cup holder and set the cable nut to the number of handle clicks at 45# force as well? That step is very important to getting it all right. Before I realized this I was having to deviate from 6-8. I do also suspect that number works better for new parking brake shoes and rotors than used.

No there isn’t much of a “click” but with a flashlight and some contortionist practice you can see what screwdriver movement advances the star wheel by one tooth, and just learn that movement. Then you can reliably adjust one at a time.

Yes I pulled the cup holder and adjusted the cable. I suspect I didn't get it tight enough or had too many clicks (went 7 or 8 but maybe needed to do 5. I did try to calibrate my arm to 45# by using a torque wrench on a lug nut with my hand ~12" from the socket to simulate what 45# feels like on the brake lever.

Took it to an indy shop and they messed with it and flipped the backwards star wheel but they can't get the PB to hold the truck on an incline. They are saying that they thing the cables need to be replaced. I suppose the cables could be stretched but there must be a place where the cables attach to the thing that pulls on them that I would hope could be adjusted. The FSM talks about cables #1, #2, and #3.

really hope I don't have to drop the fuel tank to fix this. I hope that the "claw" things referenced can be adjusted some how to take any slack out. Why is nothing I do simple?

Edit: Picked it up from the indy and they only charged me for the brake flush I had them do and nothing for messing with the park brakes. Fare guys. The hand level allows 8 clicks and it feels like near 45# of force. I'll tighten it done a bit more but its not even close to holding the truck on a incline in neutral or even on flat in gear (I do have 4.88s but it still needs to hold the truck).

 

[bloc]

Yes I pulled the cup holder and adjusted the cable. I suspect I didn't get it tight enough or had too many clicks (went 7 or 8 but maybe needed to do 5. I did try to calibrate my arm to 45# by using a torque wrench on a lug nut with my hand ~12" from the socket to simulate what 45# feels like on the brake lever.

Took it to an indy shop and they messed with it and flipped the backwards star wheel but they can't get the PB to hold the truck on an incline. They are saying that they thing the cables need to be replaced. I suppose the cables could be stretched but there must be a place where the cables attach to the thing that pulls on them that I would hope could be adjusted. The FSM talks about cables #1, #2, and #3.

View attachment 3673491

really hope I don't have to drop the fuel tank to fix this. I hope that the "claw" things referenced can be adjusted some how to take any slack out. Why is nothing I do simple?

The whole point of the adjustment is to take up cable stretch. Unless you have corrosion I doubt that is the issue.

I also did find that less than 6-8 was needed, generally. My ideal setup has them actually dragging ever so slightly. That gets the handle clicks right on the money.

 

[kcjaz]

The whole point of the adjustment is to take up cable stretch. Unless you have corrosion I doubt that is the issue.

I also did find that less than 6-8 was needed, generally. My ideal setup has them actually dragging ever so slightly. That gets the handle clicks right on the money.

I gotta think that if stretch is the issue it can be fixed without replacing the cables. I'll take a shot at the lever adjustment again tonight myself. I need to study the FSM more but it may be possible for one of of the cables tighter that the other where they come together and connect to the hand level. If that were the case, the hand level may be tight but the drum pads not applying the same force to hold the truck.

 

[bloc]

I need to study the FSM more but it may be possible for one of of the cables tighter that the other where they come together and connect to the hand level. If that were the case, the hand level may be tight but the drum pads not applying the same force to hold the truck.

As I understand it that’s part of why the FSM specifies backing off the handle nut before adjusting the star wheels. That should allow the split cables to return completely which evens them out. Set the wheel adjustment, then the handle nut which effectively sets cable pre-tension, good to go.

But yes in my experience it requires a bit of fiddling to get it dialed in.

 

[kcjaz]

As I understand it that’s part of why the FSM specifies backing off the handle nut before adjusting the star wheels. That should allow the split cables to return completely which evens them out. Set the wheel adjustment, then the handle nut which effectively sets cable pre-tension, good to go.

But yes in my experience it requires a bit of fiddling to get it dialed in.

I should be able to confirm the cables are both move by moving the hand lever with the drums off and verifying the cables both move. Or maybe I can totally loosen the hand lever nut and disconnect the cables at the drums to confirm that they both move freely.

 

[bloc]

I should be able to confirm the cables are both move by moving the hand lever with the drums off and verifying the cables both move. Or maybe I can totally loosen the hand lever nut and disconnect the cables at the drums to confirm that they both move freely.

View attachment 3673719

Your first option is a whole lot less work than the second.

But even taking the drums off generally means resetting the star wheel adjustment.

 

[kcjaz]

Your first option is a whole lot less work than the second.

But even taking the drums off generally means resetting the star wheel adjustment.

Yes, the sad part is that the pads, levers and star wheels have been completely removed and installed twice already. If I can’t get 5 clicks on the hand lever plus only backing off the star wheel 5 “clicks” rather than 7, to do it, it has to be cable related.

I’ll update tonight as I know the entire Mud community is riveted to this saga and my quest for parking brake dominance.

 

[Artie]

I’ll update tonight as I know the entire Mud community is riveted to this saga and my quest for parking brake dominance.

I know this is sarcasm but I am interested in your saga because mine needs adjusting as well… it goes all the way to the top and does not brake the vehicle.

 

[kcjaz]

Well update 1 is bad news. There is no more cable #1 adjustment at the hand lever. Its as tight as it goes. No more threads to make it tighter and I can get 8 clicks max. I measured force with a suitcase scale and get 6 clicks with 45 lbs. Its over 50 to get the 8 clicks which I think is all it has.

I think the next step is to give the star wheels a bit more and see what happens. I don't think that will work as it doesn't seem like its really close to holding it on my sloped drive way. To get to the yolk where cable 2 and 3 connect to cable 1 means pull part of the center consol. I also have left all my metric sockets and wrenches at my Lake shop 140 miles from home.

Que the center console removal in FSM....

 

[bloc]

Well update 1 is bad news. There is no more cable #1 adjustment at the hand lever. Its as tight as it goes. No more threads to make it tighter and I can get 8 clicks max. I measured force with a suitcase scale and get 6 clicks with 45 lbs. Its over 50 to get the 8 clicks which I think is all it has.

I think the next step is to give the star wheels a bit more and see what happens. I don't think that will work as it doesn't seem like its really close to holding it on my sloped drive way. To get to the yolk where cable 2 and 3 connect to cable 1 means pull part of the center consol. I also have left all my metric sockets and wrenches at my Lake shop 140 miles from home.

Que the center console removal in FSM....

Give the star wheels some more work. Mine are basically dragging when the hand lever is in the adjustment range they specify. This is hard to dial in because the differential forces both rotors to spin at the same time, but I essentially open one side, set the other (where it’s barely dragging), then open that side back up remembering how many “clicks”, set the other, then tighten the first side back to the previous adjustment.

It’s a pain in the ass, but it works.

 

[kcjaz]

Give the star wheels some more work. Mine are basically dragging when the hand lever is in the adjustment range they specify. This is hard to dial in because the differential forces both rotors to spin at the same time, but I essentially open one side, set the other (where it’s barely dragging), then open that side back up remembering how many “clicks”, set the other, then tighten the first side back to the previous adjustment.

It’s a pain in the ass, but it works.

Yes, that is next. I just pulled the top panel off the center console thinking I would be able to see the yoke where the cables come together but that part is under the cool box so to get to it, you are disconnecting refrigerant lines. So definitely going to mess with the star wheels before going that deep.

if it comes to pulling out the whole center console, has anyone actually removed the top center part:

It pops up but there are a lot of electrical connections and the FSM only provides this gem for the next step:

I don't see how to really get my hand in there to do that. I cant even figure out how to get this grey clip detached (I'm afraid of prying too hard without understanding how it unclips.

 

[kcjaz]

Update: Success.

I did what @bloc said and applied more pressure with the star wheel by only backing it off ~5 click not ~8. My take away, other than you should just listen to @bloc, is that the park brake adjustment is more about feel than it is about any precise number of turns on the star wheel. It’s hard to feel the movement of the star wheel and sometimes you move the screw driver but you’re not sure if you moved the wheel. Also the starting point is “turn star wheel until you can’t move the hub by hand. Well is that a gorilla hand or a 5’4” soccer mom hand? 12 clicks might get you to where you can’t move the hub but so would 15. Did you really just find the exact spot where it would move? Where are you really backing it off from?

Backing of 5 clicks is a good thumb rule. The point is that it probably needs to be more than the FSM says. With experience you would get a feel for how much drag feels right. I could definitely feel the difference between 5 and 8. Noticeable drag at 5. Driving the car I don’t hear any brake drum noise. If it is too tight, I’ll wear the pads and maybe the park brake won’t hold at the same lever position. I’ll cross that bridge if it happens.

I also a little more hand lever force than 45 lbs at 5 to 7 clicks. I’m somewhere in the 45 to 50 lbs at 5 clicks of the lever and that holds the truck. I may be able to back off a little. I can go to 9 clicks but ot takes a little gorilla for that.

Anyway, I’m pretty relieved I don’t have a cable issue and I’ll be able to park on a trail at LCDC knowing my park brake works on steep hills.

 

[bloc]

is that the park brake adjustment is more about feel than it is about any precise number of turns on the star wheel.

This, exactly.

For people that do it all the time? No problem.

Really glad you got it sorted.

 

[kcjaz]

This, exactly.

For people that do it all the time? No problem.

Really glad you got it sorted.

The thing that sent me down the “there must be something else wrong” path is that the Indy couldn’t adjust it either and gave up. Generally this shop is pretty good. I know they don’t see a lot of 200s but I’d think they see lots of Tundras. I think time pressure gets them and they default to “I don’t know what’s wrong so the next step is replacing things”.

Thanks for all your help

 

[Artie]

Is the star wheel accessible if you have wheel spacers? In the video it’s accessible from the front which is the opposite of the brakes I’m used to working on.

 

[bloc]

I think time pressure gets them and they default to “I don’t know what’s wrong so the next step is replacing things”.

Thanks for all your help

Time pressure plus not wanting to look like they can't figure it out. Edit: And I assume the tundra with a foot brake is much less sensitive to precise adjustment.

And any time.

Is the star wheel accessible if you have wheel spacers? In the video it’s accessible from the front which is the opposite of the brakes I’m used to working on.

Star wheel is about 1-hour to the rear of 6-o'clock on each side. It is outboard of the hub face.. so maybe it'll clear? You have to pivot the screwdriver up or down depending on the direction of turning so I could see the spacer getting in the way of that, even if it doesn't obscure the hole itself.

 

[Artie]

Time pressure plus not wanting to look like they can't figure it out. Edit: And I assume the tundra with a foot brake is much less sensitive to precise adjustment.

And any time.



Star wheel is about 1-hour to the rear of 6-o'clock on each side. It is outboard of the hub face.. so maybe it'll clear? You have to pivot the screwdriver up or down depending on the direction of turning so I could see the spacer getting in the way of that, even if it doesn't obscure the hole itself.

Thanks for the info. As long as I can get into the access hole I’m sure I have something in my bag of tricks to turn it.

 

[Artie]

I rotated my tires today and decided to tackle this hand brake adjustment. My handle has gone all the way to the top of the available travel only engaging the parking brake near the top and never enough to hold the truck on any type of incline, it’s been like this since buying the truck new in 2021.

It appears that my handbrake shoes were dragging just as @bloc said that they should so this led me to the cable under the cup holders. Inspecting that showed that the nut was about 3 threads down on the adjustment bolt and I could wiggle it wildly when the handle was in the down position. I tighten it up and now have a parking brake that works. Looking at @kcjaz last picture showing his cable adjustment nut leads me to believe that mine may have never been adjusted from the factory as mine has about half the amount of threads showing.

I’m going to chalk this up to Covid lockdown assembly issues and hope that’s my only example of it.