How involved is it to replace seals on a LX 570 center diff. actuator? (1 Viewer)

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The center diff. lock light of my '14 LX 570 was blinking the other day and never engaged for 2 to 3 minutes. Since I planned to replace the transfer case fluid, I was wondering how hard is it to remove the center diff. actuator, cleaned, and replace the seals. I have seen some YouTube videos on cleaning and replacing seals on the GX 460 and 470 but I have not seen one done on the LX 570. Also, I don't know how many seals are needed for the 570 center diff. actuator.
 
The center diff. lock light of my '14 LX 570 was blinking the other day and never engaged for 2 to 3 minutes. Since I planned to replace the transfer case fluid, I was wondering how hard is it to remove the center diff. actuator, cleaned, and replace the seals. I have seen some YouTube videos on cleaning and replacing seals on the GX 460 and 470 but I have not seen one done on the LX 570. Also, I don't know how many seals are needed for the 570 center diff. actuator.
It's not the transfer case fluid, though you should do that every 30k I think. The issue is the actuator motor(s) which are mounted to the outside of the transfer case. Teckis300 has a full thread on how to R&R this. There are no seals, but you'll need some dielectric grease, CRC electronics cleaner, and clean cloth, and a thin flat blade putty knife.
 
From some videos I've seen, like the gx470, fluids from the transfer case is coming into the center diff. actuator motor. That is why they're cleaning and re-sealing the actuator. However, I have not seen any videos done on the LX 570 center diff. actuator motor yet so I don't know what's all involved. That is why I like to get a handle of how much work is involved before embarking on this journey.

Thanks, I'll check out Teckis300 thread.
 
From some videos I've seen, like the gx470, fluids from the transfer case is coming into the center diff. actuator motor. That is why they're cleaning and re-sealing the actuator. However, I have not seen any videos done on the LX 570 center diff. actuator motor yet so I don't know what's all involved. That is why I like to get a handle of how much work is involved before embarking on this journey.

Thanks, I'll check out Teckis300 thread.
My actuators were pretty clean. I think it's possible but the primary culprits for the flashing CDL issues are (a) moisture ingress from the breather tube, (b) high motor resistance, or (c) I believe the fact that the CDL actuator motor sits upside down and so the contacts aren't always tight causes a fault at startup sometimes when cold.
 
...also, in the case of water ingress due to breather hose failure, the sub-micro actuator switches can become fouled and quit doing what they should be doing. If you are going DIY, I'd be happy to field a call; just send a DM. I've gotten so much help from Team MUD here, I am more than happy to pay that forward (or is it backward, in this case?)
 
...also, in the case of water ingress due to breather hose failure, the sub-micro actuator switches can become fouled and quit doing what they should be doing. If you are going DIY, I'd be happy to field a call; just send a DM. I've gotten so much help from Team MUD here, I am more than happy to pay that forward (or is it backward, in this case?)
Awesome! Thank you, I'll keep that in mind if I do decide to take out the actuator to clean.
 
If you do decide to R&R, don't do what I did and try to clean the microswitch in the CDL actuator. Cleaning the motor with CRC and cleaning up all the factory grease and applying new dielectric grease is fine.

IMO if you have a lot of corrosion, just drop $600 on the Aisin actuator and pull those motors off and swap them. If you muck up the tiny hair-like contacts in microswitch trying to clean it, it's a PITFA to get things functional again.

 
If you do decide to R&R, don't do what I did and try to clean the microswitch in the CDL actuator. Cleaning the motor with CRC and cleaning up all the factory grease and applying new dielectric grease is fine.

IMO if you have a lot of corrosion, just drop $600 on the Aisin actuator and pull those motors off and swap them. If you muck up the tiny hair-like contacts in microswitch trying to clean it, it's a PITFA to get things functional again.

Thank you so much for the tip!
 
Wow, looks like the LX 570 actuator is very different from the GX 470 that I have been watching on YouTube. I may consider a new one if it's in fact looks corroded....will have to see. It may be early summer...just planning stage.
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If you do decide to R&R, don't do what I did and try to clean the microswitch in the CDL actuator. Cleaning the motor with CRC and cleaning up all the factory grease and applying new dielectric grease is fine.

IMO if you have a lot of corrosion, just drop $600 on the Aisin actuator and pull those motors off and swap them. If you muck up the tiny hair-like contacts in microswitch trying to clean it, it's a PITFA to get things functional again.

"yes"
 
After I changing the t-case fluid, the CDL seems to work quite good on my first test. Turning CDL on or off works on first try...that was not the case before. I did a scan of my LX 570 and I keep getting the telematics error. I'm not sure what that is but everything seems to be working fine for now. Many thanks for everyone's help.
 
After I changing the t-case fluid, the CDL seems to work quite good on my first test. Turning CDL on or off works on first try...that was not the case before. I did a scan of my LX 570 and I keep getting the telematics error. I'm not sure what that is but everything seems to be working fine for now. Many thanks for everyone's help.
I think my 2010 trips a similar error. Mine also seems to function properly.
 

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