How do I install the OEM roof rack on a US truck

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ridgerunner said:
Off topic-

Bruce, who are those madmen in the 40 and where is that?

That would be Dr Rob Millson of LCI in Vancouver with Gabby his co-pilot coming around to rescue me on the infamous trail Mullen wrote about in Trails a few years ago. I've wrecked so much stuff in that mudhole. You'd think I'd learn my lesson.
 
NOTE ON USING SILICONE SEALER ON STEEL PARTS:
Silicone sealer (except aquarium) contains an acid which PROMOTES RUST!

If you want to seal a hole in the body, clean it well & take it to an auto glass shop & have them fill it with urethane adhesive (windshield glue). Cures like tire rubber & doesn't cause rust. Also, if you have bare metal, best to prime it first with the brand-specific primer.

That's how I filled the holes from the lame roof rack on my 84 '60. Now I have my Thule gutter-mount racks on & can actually carry something without the roof oil-canning.
 
In my experience the Thule Racks work the best they have rectangular bars instead of the round yakima that make it easier to drill things into and the bars are galvanized unlike yakima so they will last longer. I also noticed the fit guide from thule recomends the 387 foot, which is the tall foot. You would need this for a 40 but the 60 has a lower roof and the 300 foot looks much better in my opinion, it doesnt' stick up so high. You will be able to carry much more weight with a gutter mount system than the factory one you are looking at.
 
Reedo311 said:
In my experience the Thule Racks work the best they have rectangular bars instead of the round yakima that make it easier to drill things into and the bars are galvanized unlike yakima so they will last longer. I also noticed the fit guide from thule recomends the 387 foot, which is the tall foot. You would need this for a 40 but the 60 has a lower roof and the 300 foot looks much better in my opinion, it doesnt' stick up so high. You will be able to carry much more weight with a gutter mount system than the factory one you are looking at.

Tall foot likely is recommended to clear the factory rack. I have the tall foot on my Thule system to carry the mountain bikes on otherwise the spacing needs to be too far apart due to the factory rack. The smaller foot I use for the canoes when the racks are at the extreme front and rear of the roof. Terzo accessories and Thule accessories sort of interchange as well due to the rectangular bars.
 
US roof racks and NON US racks are different

I have had an HJ60 with a toyota rack that was great it had 6 feet and could hold lots of stuff (2 kayaks).

My FJ60 came with a rack that looked alot like the HJ rack but had 4 feet. This thing is junk. I put a 50 lbs canoe on it and it fell apart. The holes in the roof were not threaded, just drilled and had junky sheet metal screws. I also have them pluged with bondo and need to have them welded.
 
panama said:
I have had an HJ60 with a toyota rack that was great it had 6 feet and could hold lots of stuff (2 kayaks).

My FJ60 came with a rack that looked alot like the HJ rack but had 4 feet. This thing is junk. I put a 50 lbs canoe on it and it fell apart. The holes in the roof were not threaded, just drilled and had junky sheet metal screws. I also have them pluged with bondo and need to have them welded.

The stock rack is the 6 footed rack with captured nuts NOT the one with sheet metal screws.
 
Almost all of Yakima's accesories will fit on Thule bars. they use a thing called a SNAR (snap around ring) to attach the accessory to the bar. It has little ears you cut off and Walla it fits either company. In my opinion as a former roofrack specialist, the Thule bars and feet, actually called towers, are stronger. However they do tend to leave crucial parts out of some boxes, and they are not quite as intuitive as Yakima. The Yakima accessory line is far more expansive and has more price-points. My personal favorite is the track systems which give a bomber attaching system and a clean custom look. Rain gutters are great, but at the moment the only vehicles currently outfitted with them are full-sized vans. So unless you only drive old cars like cruisers, having all your vehicles "Tracked" allows you to interchange setups as needed with out buying more towers and Q-clips, which are some of the most expensive components.
 
My factory HJ rack.....seems pretty rugged for what it is.

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