Hot?

[jvazquez53]

Ok, I'm still trying to figure out the temperature problems in my truck. If the truck sits idle, the temperature stays in the half mark of the gauge. If I drive the truck, after 10-15 minutes the temperature gauge starts creeping towards the "H", but I doesn't reach the hot mark. It goes 3/4 way. I added silicone to the fan clutch, replaced the sending unit, installed a separate gauge, flushed the radiator and replaced the thermostat (195 degrees; the only available), even tested it before install it. After driving, I check under the hood, it feels hot, but not like is overheating. The carburetor fan quit working, I don't think this should have any effect on the engine temperature. One thing I noticed is that after a 30 minute drive, the top hose has a lot of built up pressure. Could it be that the radiator be bad even after is been flushed? Right now I' not using the truck for fear of blowing a gasket.

 

[Joe Egolf]

Did you check-test- or replace the radiator cap??

 

[jvazquez53]

Forgot that... I did replaced the radiator cap.

 

[JLH911]

Ok, I'm still trying to figure out the temperature problems in my truck. If the truck sits idle, the temperature stays in the half mark of the gauge. If I drive the truck, after 10-15 minutes the temperature gauge starts creeping towards the "H", but I doesn't reach the hot mark. It goes 3/4 way. I added silicone to the fan clutch, replaced the sending unit, installed a separate gauge, flushed the radiator and replaced the thermostat (195 degrees; the only available), even tested it before install it. After driving, I check under the hood, it feels hot, but not like is overheating. The carburetor fan quit working, I don't think this should have any effect on the engine temperature. One thing I noticed is that after a 30 minute drive, the top hose has a lot of built up pressure. Could it be that the radiator be bad even after is been flushed? Right now I' not using the truck for fear of blowing a gasket.

The Carb Fan is supposed to come on ONLY when the engine is off, so it wouldn't help to cool the engine while it's running.

Even if you flushed the Radiator, it still could be plugged. I'd get it rodded out if you can't buy a new one.

Are you really sure it's getting hot? I'm sure you've heard how erratic and non-precise the stock temperature gauge is, right?

I just installed a Mechanical Temp gauge and I can finally drive around with peace of mind that what I see on the gauge is really what the water temp is.

 

[jvazquez53]

The radiator shop said it was rodded, however I cannot be 100% sure of that. I did got another gauge, but it is electrical. My carb fan is not working (broken wires).

 

[REKCUT]

The only way to be sure is to install real gauge with numbers, not letters. Most of the problem with heating up on this board are gauge problems not engine problems. Get some real data posted and then we can be more helpful.

 

[jvazquez53]

How about 240 degrees? Also, today I removed the upper hose and ran the engine until the thermostat opened. The flow that came from the hose (open thermostat) was steady but not strong. Is that the way supposed to be?

 

[dallen341]

How about 240 degrees? Also, today I removed the upper hose and ran the engine until the thermostat opened. The flow that came from the hose (open thermostat) was steady but not strong. Is that the way supposed to be?

Check the lower hose. It may be collapsing which will prevent propoer coolant flow.

 

[Michael Hanson]

My guess, radiator, take it to a different shop,they will check it for free if they are good.

 

[Matt60]

like thad said you need a true water temp gauge with numbers. mine has never gone over 185 degrees, and sits most always at 180. as well the carb fan is to prevent vapor loc and from boiling the gas after shut down. my carb fan is in a nice cardboard box in the basement. as well i had a (new) radiator from M@F that cost some coin and let me down to the point that i replaced the engine and continued to use my old radiator that is now in the field that i threw it in.

 

[jvazquez53]

My guess, radiator, take it to a different shop,they will check it for free if they are good.

Tomorrow I'm taking the radiator to another shop.

 

[jvazquez53]

Check the lower hose. It may be collapsing which will prevent proper coolant flow.

Already checked, not collapsing.

 

[TemboTusk]

FYI: Toyota Gage compared to a numbered gage:

1/4 equals 180 degrees
1/2 equals 200 degrees
3/4 equals 220 degrees
Half way between 3/4 and the red zone equals 235 to 240 degrees

 

[jvazquez53]

FYI: Toyota Gage compared to a numbered gage:

1/4 equals 180 degrees
1/2 equals 200 degrees
3/4 equals 220 degrees
Half way between 3/4 and the red zone equals 235 to 240 degrees

This is good info! (At least to me)

 

[techninja]

like thad said you need a true water temp gauge with numbers. mine has never gone over 185 degrees, and sits most always at 180. as well the carb fan is to prevent vapor loc and from boiling the gas after shut down. my carb fan is in a nice cardboard box in the basement. as well i had a (new) radiator from M@F that cost some coin and let me down to the point that i replaced the engine and continued to use my old radiator that is now in the field that i threw it in.

What gauge did you get?
My temp is just bizarre. I have a 1985 FJ60; it was just fine until I paid out over $3k to get it to pass smog. Ever since it has had erratic temp readings. Weirdness is that it is fine around town; gets to 3/4 on the fwy @ 60/65; shows cooler (almost down to 1/2) when I run the AC.
I've replaced the radiator (a new brass one) about 4 years ago; the fan clutch 3 times, 2 of them OEM; and the thermostat (again) with aToyota 180 (I think it was 180 or 185; toyota branded) after this started happening.
I tend to think the smog guy did something to the system buy running it hot to do the smog thing. But I would think if it was broken, it would stay broken and not change up all the time. It used to run at about 1/4 ~ 1/3
The wire for the sender has been patched before I got the truck, and I replaced the sending unit when I first got the truck in '03.

Also weirdness: If I connect the rear heater, but don't even turn it on, it causes the temp to rise.

 

[jvazquez53]

Ok, I'm still trying to figure out the temperature problems in my truck. If the truck sits idle, the temperature stays in the half mark of the gauge. If I drive the truck, after 10-15 minutes the temperature gauge starts creeping towards the "H", but I doesn't reach the hot mark. It goes 3/4 way. I added silicone to the fan clutch, replaced the sending unit, installed a separate gauge, flushed the radiator and replaced the thermostat (195 degrees; the only available), even tested it before install it. After driving, I check under the hood, it feels hot, but not like is overheating. The carburetor fan quit working, I don't think this should have any effect on the engine temperature. One thing I noticed is that after a 30 minute drive, the top hose has a lot of built up pressure. Could it be that the radiator be bad even after is been flushed? Right now I' not using the truck for fear of blowing a gasket.

For now since I need to use the truck and the weather here is always the same (hot & humid) I 'm taking the thermostat out until I can get The radiator and the pump replaced = until payday. After all it runs fairly decent without it, I know is working (thermostat, I tested it; opens @ 195 degrees).

 

[JLH911]

What gauge did you get?
My temp is just bizarre. I have a 1985 FJ60; it was just fine until I paid out over $3k to get it to pass smog. Ever since it has had erratic temp readings. Weirdness is that it is fine around town; gets to 3/4 on the fwy @ 60/65; shows cooler (almost down to 1/2) when I run the AC.
I've replaced the radiator (a new brass one) about 4 years ago; the fan clutch 3 times, 2 of them OEM; and the thermostat (again) with aToyota 180 (I think it was 180 or 185; toyota branded) after this started happening.
I tend to think the smog guy did something to the system buy running it hot to do the smog thing. But I would think if it was broken, it would stay broken and not change up all the time. It used to run at about 1/4 ~ 1/3
The wire for the sender has been patched before I got the truck, and I replaced the sending unit when I first got the truck in '03.

Also weirdness: If I connect the rear heater, but don't even turn it on, it causes the temp to rise.

Maybe the rear heater core is plugged?

 

[Matt60]

What gauge did you get?
My temp is just bizarre. I have a 1985 FJ60; it was just fine until I paid out over $3k to get it to pass smog. Ever since it has had erratic temp readings. Weirdness is that it is fine around town; gets to 3/4 on the fwy @ 60/65; shows cooler (almost down to 1/2) when I run the AC.
I've replaced the radiator (a new brass one) about 4 years ago; the fan clutch 3 times, 2 of them OEM; and the thermostat (again) with aToyota 180 (I think it was 180 or 185; toyota branded) after this started happening.
I tend to think the smog guy did something to the system buy running it hot to do the smog thing. But I would think if it was broken, it would stay broken and not change up all the time. It used to run at about 1/4 ~ 1/3
The wire for the sender has been patched before I got the truck, and I replaced the sending unit when I first got the truck in '03.

Also weirdness: If I connect the rear heater, but don't even turn it on, it causes the temp to rise.

i've got some $30 parts store gauge (o'reilly, auto zone) works well i had to get creative w/ the fitting. as well i have the toyota 180 thermostat. also i have NO smog equipment at all... all heaters front and rear work great. might try a back flush kit, 6 dollars worth wouldn't hurt

 

[jvazquez53]

Maybe the rear heater core is plugged?

Don't have heater, Don't use it, lines are disconnected from the engine

 

[JLH911]

Don't have heater, Don't use it, lines are disconnected from the engine

That was meant for Techninja ;p