The instrument cluster volt meter fluctuates badly when turn signal is on and the battery does not seem properly charged so have roughly narrowed it down to an electrical fault.
Have checked some stuff with a multimeter.
With no electrical consumer running, engine idle,
Alternator output is a healthy 14.40V but at the battery it only reads 13.
8V.
Battery and alternator terminal is clean, free of oxides and oils.
Main fusible link (AM1) is warm
There is a voltage drop of 0.6V between alternator positive and battery positive.
0.26V across the AM1 fusible link.
Chassis ground cable (red) is hot to the touch and there is a voltage drop of 0.26V at idle
Engine ground (black) is Ok as there is only a 0.1v drop across it and is not hot.
Have removed the offending cable and found that it is improperly terminated
badly soldered eyelet (have cut the cable to check cable size.)
oversized lug
Therefore would like to replace the chassis ground cable.
What size cable should be used? The one in the photos is a 7 awg
Have checked some stuff with a multimeter.
With no electrical consumer running, engine idle,
Alternator output is a healthy 14.40V but at the battery it only reads 13.
8V.
Battery and alternator terminal is clean, free of oxides and oils.
Main fusible link (AM1) is warm
There is a voltage drop of 0.6V between alternator positive and battery positive.
0.26V across the AM1 fusible link.
Chassis ground cable (red) is hot to the touch and there is a voltage drop of 0.26V at idle
Engine ground (black) is Ok as there is only a 0.1v drop across it and is not hot.
Have removed the offending cable and found that it is improperly terminated
Therefore would like to replace the chassis ground cable.
What size cable should be used? The one in the photos is a 7 awg
