Horn not working

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duggy

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Threads
127
Messages
2,669
Location
Houston, Texas
I have a 1998 TLC and has a non-operative horn. I have diagnosed the horn pretty throughly and am stumped at this point. Hopefully turning to the Mud community can jog my brain a bit more to finally diagnose this issue.

I'll state the facts first:

1) The steering wheel contacts are working fine. If I press the horn and the multi-meter on the contacts for the horn relay in the engine bay, I receive 10-11 volts (more on this below)
2) I have switched out the relay with a known good one. The fuse is also good
3) The relay is 3 pronged, 12v and ground show good power, switched ground activates (10-11V) when I press on the horn pad in the truck
4) I have tested both horns with 12v and they work fine.
5) The relay does not click when I go to press on the horn pad
6) The horn works when hooked up to a 6V battery. You can hear the plunger trying to kick on and off. Why is my switched ground showing 10 or 11 volts?


Odd issues:

If I hook up 12v to the clip on the horn, and wire the tab of the horn to switched ground, I lose the switched ground (as shown on my multi-meter). Once I remove the wire from the switched ground, I show a reading on the multi-meter once again. The same thing happens with a test light. Once I complete the circuit, the switched ground goes away.

I tested the single green wire going to the horn (supposed to be power) but it actually shows a ground if I put the positive terminal from my multi-meter onto the battery terminal. Is this correct? Why would it show ground when the horn actually grounds itself from the tab and bolt into the body?

Does anybody have any idea what is going on? I'm perplexed. I don't have a horn wiring schematic on hand, but it would help. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!
 
I finally resolved this issue. It turns out when I took the steering wheel out that the steering wheel was not grounding to the splined nut and bolt because of rust. I would assume so because of humidity here in Houston/Texas.

When we checked for continuity at the steering wheel frame, we did not find any. From nut to the steering wheel we were able to find a ground. Essentially, I had to take the nut off of the steering wheel and remove the rust by using sand paper. The horn works beautifully afterwards and I am stoked!
 
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