Hooked up battery backwards... help please

[HighPlainsDrifter]

It will last awhile, maybe an hour or 3 tops if you're driving it in the daytime and not running any accessories.If you run it for that long you probably won't get it started again with out a jump though. What does the gauge say when your runnin it? That is a good way to tell what the battery is doing. As for the switch I can't help you there I got a 4 speed gear grinder in mine.

 

[archtimb]

NSS is on the passenger side (US), on the side of the tranny. Shaped like a segment of a circle. Don't know if this will help you, but you might be able to test it using your FSM wiring diagram. Probably best to swap in a known good unit and try it. The NSS can be opened, but is meant to be factory sealed.

Mitch

 

[4xoddic]

Yahoo 3FE Group info

Randy88FJ62 - You have joined the Yahoo 3FE Group, right?


I searched using reverse switch & here's a few tidbits. Might also seach with NSS


Reverse switch on 88fj62

Look for a quadrant shaped switch on the passenger (US) side of your tranny. There is an adjustment procedure in your FSM. I think someone on the 3FE took theirs apart to clean the contacts, but not sure. I know, it seems like an odd place, but someday we will see the wisdom of that Toyota engineer

I spent some time adjusting my shift linkage and neutral start switch according to the FSM….with no luck in getting the reverse lights to come on properly. I could adjust it to make the lights work but then it would be out of whack for starting in Neutral…I opted for starting ability.

I took the N.S. switch off and apart, there are sliding copper contacts in there that make contact at different points along its path depending on what gear it is in. Mine appear to be fairly worn and notched which may be a big part of the problem.

Anyone have a clue if there is a part # for Neutral Start Switch guts/contacts? I’ll bet a whole new one would be pricey. I cleaned it up and put it back together with no luck ….I didn’t have any more time to dive deeper into the issue, but that’s what I found if anyone is interested.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Thanks for the replies on the NSS. I will take a look and see if I can locate it quick. Otherwise it's waiting a week or two until I can order the FSM and properly diagnose it.
I am apart of the 3FE group but only for a month or so. I've only investigated the files on there and forgot about searching it.

If anyone is bored and can e-mail me the pages out of the A440F FSM regarding the NSS that would be awesome...

 

[4xoddic]

A440F FSM Not much help.

A440F FSM:

3. Remove Control Shaft Lever

4. Remove NSS
(a) Loosen the lock washer claw & remove the nut.
(b) Remove the lock washer & grommet.
(c) Remove the 2 bolts & NSS.

31. Install NSS
(a) Install the NSS & torque the bolts (13 N-m)
(b) Install the grommet & lock washer , & torque the nut (6.9 N-m)
(c) Using a screwdriver, stake the lock washer.

32. Install the Control Shaft Lever w/nut, torque
13 N-m

Repair Manual for Chassis & Body FSM:

If the engine will start with the shift selector in any range other than N or P, adjustment is required.

1. Loosen NSS bolts.

2. Set shift lever to N or P

3. Adjust NSS
(a) Disconnect the NSS connector.
(b) Connect an ohmmeter between the terminals N & B (2 parallel terminals)
(c) Adjust the NSS to the point where there is continuity between terminals N & B (d) Connect the NSS connector.

4. Tighten NSS bolts (torque 13 N-m)

As archtimb said, not meant to be serviced. That hasn't stopped anyone from tinkering with window switches. 8<). 3FE mentions someone taking it apart, noticing contacts worn & cleaning it up. Worn contacts is probably your problem.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Judging from your instructions it looks more involved. I'm going to check it next week after this weekend trip. It's an electrical problem with the NSS so I think the contacts and the mechanical positioning is ok.
What electrical connections or relays may be linked to the NSS that could be damaged by high current in the wriong direction?

4xoddic, thank you for the instruction post. I appreciate the help.

 

[Ming89FJ62]

You can discconnect the NSS's electrical connector (3 conductors IIRC) and check for power and continuity to confirm it the issue. FWIW I had to replace my NSS several years ago - it just plain wore out.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Is the NSS just wires to copper contacts that are controlled by the shift lever? What electronics are in there? Or could the wires just be eaten up by the wrong power?

 

[4xoddic]

Try this at home, with the lights dimmed

One of my most successful Jr High Science demos on electricity:

MATERIALS:

lamp cord w/plug
wooden stand = L___I
2 nails, 1 nailed into @ upright, pointing inward w/.5 inch remaining above wood
-L--___--I-

split cord w/1 lead to each nail head (pretend + & -)
large dill pickle, speared onto nails (as a filament appears in a light bulb)

EVERYBODY STAND BACK!

Dim lights

plug cord into wall socket

ta da!:






















LIGHTED PICKLE

Watch what happens the longer current runs thru the pickle. This is what may have happened inside your NSS. Post back with your results. One of my mainstreamed special ed students was first with the correct respone to Q: Why did the pickle go out?. *


*All Mudders should be overseen by someone with an understanding of adult-onset early-childhood-syndrome.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I will check next week when I get back. When I get my truck working i will do a writeup about connecting the battery backwards and the consequesnces and fixes required.

The best outcome is for people to learn and take away experience from their mistakes so others don't have to or have a place to look when they do the same.
-Randy

 

[Ming89FJ62]

IIRC there are two bundles of wire w/ connectors on the NSS. One will be for the back up lights the other is to sense that the NSS is in either N or P so you can start the truck - I forget which one is which. Here's where a Factory Service Manual is your best friend. Both are just switches - probably normally open contacts.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Are there any fuses in odd places that need to be replaced?

 

[roscoFJ73]

I have not found info on where this switch is yet. I hate not having the A440F FSM. How long will my battery last if my alternator is not charging it? I am not sure that the alternator is good yet. I haven't driven it more than 40 mins total since replacing the fusible links.

The 84-90 Body and Chassis manual is on the 70 and diesel forum for downloading free.
Look up top in the stickys

 

[Ming89FJ62]

Are there any fuses in odd places that need to be replaced?

There are no odd fuses on a 62 that I'm aware of.

 

[archtimb]

The NSS by itself is just a mechanical switch, IE: copper wire and contacts. If it controls any relays, I never looked into this. I have dissected a NSS though. I suppose it may be possible to fry a tired NSS with incorrect wiring but I really do not know. I THINK the backup light function is a completely mechanical circuit.

The backwards wiring might also have caused a burnout in that rear quarter harness bundle if they were corroded and ready to go. Lots of wires there and very small gauge wires. I'm just guessing though. You might want to open the DS rear panel and peek inside. Are your quarters rotted? Any deep water crossings? It is very common for the big connector in there to corrode. It may only be a fluke that it died now, or the reverse polarity caused a bad connection to go. I forget, did you check your lamps and sockets?

Good luck,
Mitch

 

[cruiser88]

The NSS by itself is just a mechanical switch, IE: copper wire and contacts. If it controls any relays, I never looked into this. I have dissected a NSS though. I suppose it may be possible to fry a tired NSS with incorrect wiring but I really do not know. I THINK the backup light function is a completely mechanical circuit.

The backwards wiring might also have caused a burnout in that rear quarter harness bundle if they were corroded and ready to go. Lots of wires there and very small gauge wires. I'm just guessing though. You might want to open the DS rear panel and peek inside. Are your quarters rotted? Any deep water crossings? It is very common for the big connector in there to corrode. It may only be a fluke that it died now, or the reverse polarity caused a bad connection to go. I forget, did you check your lamps and sockets?

Good luck,
Mitch

Good advice but if the wire went in the DS quarter the fuel pump would not be working.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

The vehicle has minimal rust. It started its life in New Mexico and now it resides in California. I also noticed that the passenger side rear marker light is out. I'm guessing there's some wiring in the back that doesn't like me right now.

"deep water crossings" ..... I wish. Maybe in time I'll get my rig up to that level.

I agree with you archtimb, I don't think the copper contacts in the NSS are the problem. I'll be chasing it down when I get back from this weeks camping trip.

 

[archtimb]

Good advice but if the wire went in the DS quarter the fuel pump would not be working.

Sort of but not quite. Yes, the fuel pump wiring is part of the rear harness but only until it gets behind the rear seat. At that point the fuel pump harness splits off. The rest of the harness then continues to the rear corner where there is a mondo set of connectors with umpteen wires. The connection point was what I was suspecting. When these connectors corrode they can do all sorts of creative things with the electric system. If the truck has a tow hitch and trailer converter installed by some monkey at a rental place, take that and triple the occurrence of problems.

Mitch