Home AC advice - Any Experts out there?

[S&S1stCruzer]

My AC accumulator cracked and leaked out all the refrigerate from what we can tell. I trust the AC company that I have they have used then in the past, but just looking for some 2nd opinions.

We plan only staying in the house for another 5yrs. The air handler is located in the attic and would be a huge pain to get to. The unit is original one form 1996

I'll post what they said:
I wanted to be sure that the condensing unit was available as the R-22 equipment is disappearing fast. It's manufacture was stopped last month.

The condensing unit is available. Day and Night is a ICP product. ICP is the parent company of Carrier. The Day and Night unit is identical to the comparable Carrier except it is branded as Day and NIght. Carrier's equipment is a bit pricier than the Day and Night and I do not know if there is still any Carrier products available that would work in your situation. We are happy to do whatever solution works best for you. Here are a couple of things that might help your decision. The repair parts will have a one year warranty. Our workmanship warranty is two years. The equipment is original to the construction of the home which was 1996. That makes the system about 14 years old. If you make the repair choice and the compressor fails within the next year or two, you will then need to consider the condensing unit change at that time or a new system.

OPTION 1: REPAIR EXISTING ACCUMULATOR LEAK $983.29
PARTS HAVE ONE YEAR WARRANTY

PRICE ABOVE INCLUDES: 1.) Remove existing accumulator; 2.) Weld in new accumulator; 3.) Install new capacitor; 4.) Nitrogen charge to test for welds; 5.) Evacuate system; 6.) Introduce new R-22 refrigerant; 7.) Labor; and 8) Tax.


OPTION 2: REPLACE ENTIRE CONDENSING UNIT $1,816.85
DAY & NIGHT 4 TON 13 SEER R-22 CONDENSING UNIT MODEL #N2A348AKA
UNIT HAS FIVE YEAR WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS

PRICE ABOVE INCLUDES: 1.) Removal and proper disposal of existing condensing unit; 2.) All modifications necessary to connect new unit to existing refrigerant lines; 3.) Install new disconnect box and flexible conduit from disconnect to unit; 4.) Nitrogen charge to test integrity of welds; 5.) Evacuate system; 6.) Introduce new R-22 refrigerant; 7.) Labor; and 8) Tax.


Guestimate:
OPTION 3: REPLACE ENTIRE SYSTEM $7-8,000.00
There are several options for changing the entire system. Confirmation of ability to install new furnace and coil in attice before firm proposal. Federal tax credit for 2009/2010 of up to $1,500.00 is available for owner occupied, primary residence. There are many other applications of this tax credit so you may or may not be eligible if you have already made energy efficient improvements in your home. Please check with your tax consultant regarding your elibility.


Thanks guys for helping out!
(I'm in Tucson)

 

[-Spike-]

PM sent.

 

[-Spike-]

Hey everyone, feel free to help this guy- I wasn't able to.

 

[1972FJ55]

A few years ago, I used Martin's Heating & Cooling, to replace a bad condenser fan. They did the job quickly and it's been working great ever since. I don't know if they'll be any better price than what you've already gotten, but a 2nd opinion might not hurt.

Martin's Heating and Cooling
Pete Martin is the owner
722-7027

 

[re_guderian]

Unfortunately, my experiences have taught me to trust used-car salesmen more than HVAC guys, and I once bought a used Chrysler...

So, not sure this helps much, and I have no first-hand info on the situation regarding availability of R-22 parts for existing units, but it's a quick read from your tax dollars at work.

What You Should Know about Refrigerants When Purchasing or Repairing a Residential A/C System or Heat Pump | Ozone Depletion - Regulatory Programs | U.S. EPA

 

[MaddBaggins]

When I was in the plumbing/heating/cooling wholesale business I used this guy to install my new split system. Great job and good price.

Mack Williams
Affordable Comfort Systems

cell 631-7766
office 745-5872

 

[Living in the Past]

The accumulator is nothing more than a tank with two copper lines. The copper line from the reversing valve run to the bottom of the tank. The other one is a U tube the runs to the bottom and than back up to the top. In the bottom of the U is a small hole to return any oil that might have gotten out of the compressor and flowing with the refrigerant. The purpose of the accumulator is to keep liquid refrigerant from getting back to the compressor. One reason is liquid refrigerant will wash oil out of the compressor the other is liquid doesn't compress like a gas will which is not good. Not sure of your problem but some accumulator have a soft plug in them. Somewhere on the system there has to be a soft plug. The reason is DOT makes them put them there in case of a fire. It's design is to keep the presserized system from exploding. We use to just silver solder a leaking plug shut. I would ask them how much there are charging you for the accumulator. Checking a old parts catalog I could buy them for $50-$100 depending on the size. Not sure why you need a capacitor. Nothing electric on a accumulator. Capacitors are needed for a motor


I picked up a 3 1/2 ton 13 SEER split system heat pump with 10KW heat strip to install on my cabin a few months ago. Paid $1,700. That of course didn't include the copper lines, electric or labor

 

[S&S1stCruzer]

The accumulator is nothing more than a tank with two copper lines. The copper line from the reversing valve run to the bottom of the tank. The other one is a U tube the runs to the bottom and than back up to the top. In the bottom of the U is a small hole to return any oil that might have gotten out of the compressor and flowing with the refrigerant. The purpose of the accumulator is to keep liquid refrigerant from getting back to the compressor. One reason is liquid refrigerant will wash oil out of the compressor the other is liquid doesn't compress like a gas will which is not good. Not sure of your problem but some accumulator have a soft plug in them. Somewhere on the system there has to be a soft plug. The reason is DOT makes them put them there in case of a fire. It's design is to keep the presserized system from exploding. We use to just silver solder a leaking plug shut. I would ask them how much there are charging you for the accumulator. Checking a old parts catalog I could buy them for $50-$100 depending on the size. Not sure why you need a capacitor. Nothing electric on a accumulator. Capacitors are needed for a motor


I picked up a 3 1/2 ton 13 SEER split system heat pump with 10KW heat strip to install on my cabin a few months ago. Paid $1,700. That of course didn't include the copper lines, electric or labor

I'm just not sure how much I want to repair, considering I'm only planning on staying another 5-6yrs

 

[cruiser99]

get few more bids. this seem high, especialy considering this time of year (winter).

 

[Rambrush]

So you have a split unit evaporator in the attic and condensing unit outside. Its usually the best to swap out he condensing unit only leaving the evaporator intact as that as you said is a real pain to get to.
The power utility companies usually give rebates if you jump to a 14 seer unit but it may different in your area.
The repair should be enough as its not that often they go out have problems. just make sure its flushed out well.

Also R22 is going away

 

[Living in the Past]

So you have a split unit evaporator in the attic and condensing unit outside. Its usually the best to swap out he condensing unit only leaving the evaporator intact as that as you said is a real pain to get to.
The power utility companies usually give rebates if you jump to a 14 seer unit but it may different in your area.
The repair should be enough as its not that often they go out have problems. just make sure its flushed out well.

Also R22 is going away

It's is better in alot of cases to change both. At the very least make sure the new unit holds the same amount of refrigerant besides being the same type. 410A refrigerant operates at higher pressures. Besides the metering device being for the wrong refrigerant the coil may not be design for the higher pressures.

Many years ago I worked for a company that we changed the outdoor unist on some model homes since they were switching from Carrier a well know name to Comfortmaker a much less know name. Because of the difference in the amount of refrigerant they each needed we could never get the mixed system to work in both heating and cooling. This is of course only applys if you have a heat pump. With a straight cool with gas heat as long as the refrigerant is the same it can be made to work.

Usually to get a rebate you have to have a tested indoor coil that makes sure you get the rated SEER to qualify.

 

[Rambrush]

I suppose I should have worded my post better.. Thanks for the update.

I have a couple of facilities that I take care of that have 6 split units in each facility. The evap units are above the ceiling grids. Same deal the company I work for goes cheap and we end up swapping out the condensing units along with programmable t stats.not the way to go but thats what they request.