@#$%@#$%!!! Hole in CV boot

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Toyota's CV boot kit cost me around $80 a side. It was both boots and grease for both and clamps. More than I was expecting.

Someone makes high angle CV boots, but I just looked and didn't see who. It might even be cheaper. Of course, it's just a more flexible boot. CV's don't bind because of the boot, but if you're keeping IFS, it might be worth searching a bit. Maybe someone else will chime in...
 
I got a CV boot kit ordered up from O'Reilys auto parts here in Grand Forks for about 35 bucks for both sides inner and outer boots. I get parts for cost but decided to just get the boots since my cv's are still good. Oh and they will be going on thursday. Not too difficult to do just gotta wait til the store managers leaves so I don't have to pay labor. Gotta love working at a shop.

I would have to suggest going to your local parts store, the boot kits are going to be cheaper there. Good luck!
 
For Petes sake, don't buy genuine Toyota boots that are thin, dry out, then crack. You'll get the same $35 poo-poo that came on the vehicle. You need to check out the $15 non-Toyota boots that are softer, thicker, do not dry out, and do not crack so easily. While your in there, replace all four since the other three are in about the same condition.
 
Downey said:
For Petes sake, don't buy genuine Toyota boots that are thin, dry out, then crack. You'll get the same $35 poo-poo that came on the vehicle. You need to check out the $15 non-Toyota boots that are softer, thicker, do not dry out, and do not crack so easily. While your in there, replace all four since the other three are in about the same condition.
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Jim, ummm, please clarify your opinion..*How is it that something that's lasted over 13 years (*in most cases) is considered thin and "poo-poo"? Explain this mindset please.
 
From an employee of oreillys opinion, those 35 dollar boots are the biggest POS youll ever buy. Hell, Oreillys seems to have the bigges POS import products youll ever buy, go toyota or go home.
 
I think of it as PM, the boots are how old? The CV grease is just as old and if it doesn't have locking hubs they have been turning for how many bazillion miles? I have found the spindle bushings to be relatively reliable, considering that most never have been greased? IMHO all CV equipped vehicles should get new boots and fresh moly grease, bushing/bearings repacked at least every 100K mi/10yrs.
 
Tools R Us said:
I think of it as PM, the boots are how old? The CV grease is just as old and if it doesn't have locking hubs they have been turning for how many bazillion miles? I have found the spindle bushings to be relatively reliable, considering that most never have been greased? IMHO all CV equipped vehicles should get new boots and fresh moly grease, bushing/bearings repacked at least every 100K mi/10yrs.
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Exactly, it depends...I have manual hubs, since I only lock them when I off road, the CV's should be in good shape...The grease & boots, yea they're toast :hillbilly:
 
NorCalBorn said:
Apologies, apparently I just killed this thread..
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Nah, he's just a little crazy. He is the guy that sells the high angle CV boots though, inners and outers for $15 each, hidden on the website.

I don't think changing CV boots is as bad as N8 thinks, but I've only done both sides on my truck, I have no idea how many times he's done it.

I think one of the common tricks to CV work is pounding out two studs on the diff drive flange and replacing them with bolts. It's also easier if you unbolt one of the ball joints if I remember correctly.
 
I was able to swap out both of my cv's on my 88 4 Runner without using a jack or even taking a tire off.

Begin by rotating the CV so that you have one of the bolts from teh diff flange at the bottom, now lock the hub.

I use an open ended wrench and a cheeter bar, hi lift handle, to loosen the nut and remove. Once that nut is removed, unlock the hub and rotate to the next nut and lock the hub. Keep doing this till all the nuts are off and you are able to pull the CV flange away from the diff flange. You won't be able to remove the CV yet.

Next remove the hub dial on teh lock out then take the bolt out of the end of the cv followed by the snap ring. Then remove the nuts and cone washers that hold the hub body to the wheel bearing assembly. I had to use a hamer to get the hub off since the cone washers were a little tough, also a brass drift helps when you hit the stud.

Once you have the hub off, you can then grab the CV and push it to wards the wheel, it should be able to come off the studs on teh diff flange. Then rotate the diff flange so that the area that is cut away on it is facing down. You should be able to wiggle the CV out then slide it out.

Putting the new CV in is just the opposite. The first side took me about 40 minutes, since I had to learn what I was doing. this was my first time with this style CV, all my experience before was with Tacoma CVs which are a bit different. The other side took about 20 minutes.

I would either get heavier duty boots or just get a set of used CVs that are in good shape from someone doing a SAS or parting a truck out. i got mine at the local junk yard.
 
Nah, I understand. My observation is it's just sometimes people seem to think overkill is always the solution to something that simply has lived its useful life.

Jim has contributed a lot to our hobby and in no means was it meant to be an attack, I just want him to clarify his opinion is all.

As for the point on the high angle shafts, yes they do need better boots for that purpose alone. Just as with another manufacturer's ned for a longer driveshaft from a T-100 whe switching out the a-arms.

That all being said, yes, ADD has it's advantages if you're the type to wait too long to lock your hubs, me, 1st thing everytime even if I stay in 2wd for the whole thing, it's set and go. I have manual hubs and no ADD at all from when we did my 2wd-4wd conversion and I did things this way for a reason, all the way down to the full factory parts including Aisin hubs.

Besides, the toyota factory parts warranty on most of their stuff is worth the little extra expense alone. :D
 
jtaco1 said:
I was able to swap out both of my cv's on my 88 4 Runner without using a jack or even taking a tire off.
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Exactly the procedure to use..for 1st gens that is. :clap:

2nd gens, you'll want a jack.

**Mods, add jtaco's tech to the FAQ thread please! :D

Tools R Us said:
I think of it as PM...
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PM=Preventative Maintenance for "teh newbz". ;)
 
NorCalBorn said:
Exactly the procedure to use..for 1st gens that is. :clap:

2nd gens, you'll want a jack.

**Mods, add jtaco's tech to the FAQ thread please! :D



PM=Preventative Maintenance for "teh newbz". ;)
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Ah, didn't know that second gens were different. Have yet to get my hands on one of those. I have all the other generations thus far :grinpimp:
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
Disconnect front of drive shaft, if you have manual hubs, lock then and remove the 6 nuts that hold each cv to the diff (unlock hubs and turn half way through). If you have auto hubs it'll take 2 wrenches instead of one...

Place floor jack under diff, and remove 3 bolts that hold it in place. Help with this part is a good idea, the diff is heavy. Remove locking hubs, and the bolt in the end of the axle shaft, and or the snap rings that hold the shaft in.

Disconnect the sway bar mounts on the lower A arms. (a good time to toss the whole thing as the front mounts will probably break...) Turn steering wheel left and right as needed to slide the axle shafts out.

Be very careful as this job can require a lot of jacking the truck up and down... Try to do as much as you can with the tires on and it sitting on the ground.

:cheers:
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I followed your directions, I got all the bolts disconnected and the diff dropped. I also removed the manual hubs and the bolts in at the ends of the axle shafts and I can't pull the axles out from the wheel. Any ideas?

Thanks.
 
digital said:
I followed your directions, I got all the bolts disconnected and the diff dropped. I also removed the manual hubs and the bolts in at the ends of the axle shafts and I can't pull the axles out from the wheel. Any ideas?

Thanks.
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Duhh, nevermind, lol....Have to take off the c-clip! Axles are out.

Thanks
 
I just replaced my left cv shaft and they were a pain in the dick... At work I was only able to finish up the left side, considering I figured out that the upper ball joint boot has a hole in the boot and I have to tear it all down again here shortly not too ecstatic about it having to take it apart again. I knew I was gonna have to do it again any way because I have 90 angles on my ball joint zurks and the spacer require straight zurks in order to put grease in there.

I also still have to do the passenger side which will probably only take 20 minutes, CV's are a mess. With the ball joint spacers in trying to do it the old fashion way sucks, I had to pry up on the upper control arm and down on the lower control arm just to get the lower ball joint back in its hole. And I reminded myself that the lower control arms have to be at full droop, so I had to put the tire back on then relift my truck from the cross member instead of the control arm. It all a learning experience. I elected to replace the shafts because for an extra 50 bucks I may eliminate the problem I am having with the grinding in my front end. We will see...
 
Family 40's said:
I just replaced my left cv shaft and they were a pain in the dick... At work I was only able to finish up the left side, considering I figured out that the upper ball joint boot has a hole in the boot and I have to tear it all down again here shortly not too ecstatic about it having to take it apart again. I knew I was gonna have to do it again any way because I have 90 angles on my ball joint zurks and the spacer require straight zurks in order to put grease in there.

I also still have to do the passenger side which will probably only take 20 minutes, CV's are a mess. With the ball joint spacers in trying to do it the old fashion way sucks, I had to pry up on the upper control arm and down on the lower control arm just to get the lower ball joint back in its hole. And I reminded myself that the lower control arms have to be at full droop, so I had to put the tire back on then relift my truck from the cross member instead of the control arm. It all a learning experience. I elected to replace the shafts because for an extra 50 bucks I may eliminate the problem I am having with the grinding in my front end. We will see...
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I feel your pain man..it is one of those jobs you do cause you have to, not cause you want to. The best part about it was that I just dropped my front diff completely and gave her a good shine job with about a full bottle of engine degreaser. She's all shiny now :cool:
 
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