@#$%@#$%!!! Hole in CV boot

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Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Threads
37
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Well, after installing 2" ball join spacers, the CV boot on the drivers side was so brittle, I cracked a small hole in the boot, about 1/4 of an inch in diameter.

What to do?

Do I have to take everything out to replace the stupid boot??
 
epoxy and roofing rubber =D
 
Yeah I ran into the same problem those boots take alot of s*** and crack, but you stretch them a bit with the ball joint spacers and they break. I also learned that the hard way.
 
If it cracked in one spot the whole boot is brittle. It will probably crack somewhere else in a week. I'd get a boot kit from toyota (about $30.00) and replace them while its only the boot thats bad. If road dirt and water get inside the cv it will ruin it.
 
If it cracked in one spot the whole boot is brittle. It will probably crack somewhere else in a week. I'd get a boot kit from toyota (about $30.00) and replace them while its only the boot thats bad. If road dirt and water get inside the cv it will ruin it.

With the boot kit, I'm assuming I have to remove the CV joint completely right?
 
yup gotta remove the cv. That job sucks monkey nut. I hate it. Done it way too much. Grrrr I hate it.

Did I mention I hate replacing cv's?

Grrr.

You could always take this as a sign and sas the thing =D
 
yup gotta remove the cv. That job sucks monkey nut. I hate it. Done it way too much. Grrrr I hate it.

Did I mention I hate replacing cv's?

Grrr.

You could always take this as a sign and sas the thing =D

Crapola, oh well, looks like I'll replace the boots as well. I couldn't find a writeup on replacing them in the popular online 1993 FSM, know of a writeup for the job anywhere online?

Thanks.
 
Disconnect front of drive shaft, if you have manual hubs, lock then and remove the 6 nuts that hold each cv to the diff (unlock hubs and turn half way through). If you have auto hubs it'll take 2 wrenches instead of one...

Place floor jack under diff, and remove 3 bolts that hold it in place. Help with this part is a good idea, the diff is heavy. Remove locking hubs, and the bolt in the end of the axle shaft, and or the snap rings that hold the shaft in.

Disconnect the sway bar mounts on the lower A arms. (a good time to toss the whole thing as the front mounts will probably break...) Turn steering wheel left and right as needed to slide the axle shafts out.

Be very careful as this job can require a lot of jacking the truck up and down... Try to do as much as you can with the tires on and it sitting on the ground.

:cheers:
 
Disconnect front of drive shaft, if you have manual hubs, lock then and remove the 6 nuts that hold each cv to the diff (unlock hubs and turn half way through). If you have auto hubs it'll take 2 wrenches instead of one...

Place floor jack under diff, and remove 3 bolts that hold it in place. Help with this part is a good idea, the diff is heavy. Remove locking hubs, and the bolt in the end of the axle shaft, and or the snap rings that hold the shaft in.

Disconnect the sway bar mounts on the lower A arms. (a good time to toss the whole thing as the front mounts will probably break...) Turn steering wheel left and right as needed to slide the axle shafts out.

Be very careful as this job can require a lot of jacking the truck up and down... Try to do as much as you can with the tires on and it sitting on the ground.

:cheers:

Great info, thanks for the reply. I'm ordering the boot repair kit.
 
Re-booting a CV is a sucky messy PITA job. I personally would leave it in 2WD for now, then put out some feelers on the boards for CVs from someone that's doing a SAS. Much cheaper, much easier.
 
I am going to have to replace the boots, might as well replace the whole damn thing while its out, especially since I am going to 35's.
 
Re-booting a CV is a sucky messy PITA job. I personally would leave it in 2WD for now, then put out some feelers on the boards for CVs from someone that's doing a SAS. Much cheaper, much easier.


If you just want a set of used IFS axles(CV's) I know where you can get those all day long.

A friend of mine has an All Toyota 4x4 salvage yard. He has an ad on Marlin Crawler's forum

PRACTICALLY ANYTHING YOU WANT (missouri)
 
I'm thinking I should replace the wheel bearings too.. Anything else I should replace while I have the axles out?
 
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Hey KLF, what will those brass bushings do? Are the stock bushings worn?

This is one of the only questionable design decisions toyota made with these trucks that I don't understand. The inside portion of the spindle shaft on your front axles are supported by a bronze bushing. Why not by a bearing I don't know, but when they wear out the axle has room to wobble around. If your replacing the axles its a good idea to replace these bushings because more than likely they have never been replaced before.

They have diagonal grooves on the inner race side of the bushing and are a good indicator of how worn they are. When there new the grooves are a little more than 1/8".
 
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