OK, here goes:
Have a 1985 HJ75 with a Garrett Turbo added after. 12v system, but maybe 24 volt starter---not sure. It also seems to have a Wilson switch (button to right of steering column - it is RHD) and a secondary starter button under steering column. The truck is very well maintained and in very good condition. All aftermarket parts the former (Australian Geo survey guy) put on are top rate.
He is the issue. We are blowing glow plugs like toilet paper. It seems we can glow with the key, i.e turn key on to get lights and gauges working and you can here the glow plug click to warm. We can also use the bottom to the side of the steering wheel for the Wilson switch. And we can crank her over with either the key or the button under the steering wheel.
When we replace the glow plugs, she starts right away no matter the cold, etc and runs like new. But a few starts later she will not start again. So pulling the glow plugs and checking with ohms meter-- they are shot.
Therefore we put a volt meter on the glow plugs and bar and here is what we get:
1) Using the key there is 12v for about 75 seconds, then it drops to 5 volts for a long time (must be connected to a thermistor but we were testing without the engine running so....)
2) Using the Wilson button we get 12 volts for as long as you hold the button.
So it seems, maybe the owner had a bad glow plug relay and put in a Wilson switch. But how the hell did he get his key to the "on" position to run spedo, lights, gauges, etc without causing the glow plugs to fry? Does the system not glow via the key if the engine is warm and up to temp? I.e not superglow at all? Did he start with the button and wilson to bypass the ignition and then turn the key only when the engine temp was up (which you cannot see since the temp gauge will not work unless the key is on - you could guess clearly). He lived in Australia where cold in not an issue (we are in New England., not too bad, but cold enough).
Is this a normal way of doing things in Australia I do not know about? Am I screwed up in what all these things need to do an in what order. It seems the best thing would be to disconnect the old OME glow plugs from the key so we can just use the key alone. We would like to use the key since the drivers of this vehicle changes everyday to people who have never driven a LC75 or a diesel at all.But does this mean we start with 12v or 24.
If I do disconnect the OME system, how is it best done? I need to get new glow plugs---what should I use. We have been using what came out of it VSP pt-104 8.5 volts.
Can the Wilson switch be connected to the key so it can be glowed with a 1/2 turn on the key like the BJ75?
Open to suggestions. If i am not clear with all this, good chance, please let me know what i need to tell you.
thanks
Have a 1985 HJ75 with a Garrett Turbo added after. 12v system, but maybe 24 volt starter---not sure. It also seems to have a Wilson switch (button to right of steering column - it is RHD) and a secondary starter button under steering column. The truck is very well maintained and in very good condition. All aftermarket parts the former (Australian Geo survey guy) put on are top rate.
He is the issue. We are blowing glow plugs like toilet paper. It seems we can glow with the key, i.e turn key on to get lights and gauges working and you can here the glow plug click to warm. We can also use the bottom to the side of the steering wheel for the Wilson switch. And we can crank her over with either the key or the button under the steering wheel.
When we replace the glow plugs, she starts right away no matter the cold, etc and runs like new. But a few starts later she will not start again. So pulling the glow plugs and checking with ohms meter-- they are shot.
Therefore we put a volt meter on the glow plugs and bar and here is what we get:
1) Using the key there is 12v for about 75 seconds, then it drops to 5 volts for a long time (must be connected to a thermistor but we were testing without the engine running so....)
2) Using the Wilson button we get 12 volts for as long as you hold the button.
So it seems, maybe the owner had a bad glow plug relay and put in a Wilson switch. But how the hell did he get his key to the "on" position to run spedo, lights, gauges, etc without causing the glow plugs to fry? Does the system not glow via the key if the engine is warm and up to temp? I.e not superglow at all? Did he start with the button and wilson to bypass the ignition and then turn the key only when the engine temp was up (which you cannot see since the temp gauge will not work unless the key is on - you could guess clearly). He lived in Australia where cold in not an issue (we are in New England., not too bad, but cold enough).
Is this a normal way of doing things in Australia I do not know about? Am I screwed up in what all these things need to do an in what order. It seems the best thing would be to disconnect the old OME glow plugs from the key so we can just use the key alone. We would like to use the key since the drivers of this vehicle changes everyday to people who have never driven a LC75 or a diesel at all.But does this mean we start with 12v or 24.
If I do disconnect the OME system, how is it best done? I need to get new glow plugs---what should I use. We have been using what came out of it VSP pt-104 8.5 volts.
Can the Wilson switch be connected to the key so it can be glowed with a 1/2 turn on the key like the BJ75?
Open to suggestions. If i am not clear with all this, good chance, please let me know what i need to tell you.
thanks
