Hj61 bad steering issues (1 Viewer)

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I have a 61 which came with a lift on it has 35x12.5 with a 8" shackle on it,I know the shackles are vertical and should sit with a angle to them,I think it still has the stock springs but can't tell.
Problem is it has terrible bump steer and when loaded it has alot of body sway going down the highway.
The difs look like they have been turned for correct alignment with the driveshafts,there is no vibrations or shimy,not sure about the steer rod it has alot of angle to it .
Here are some pics maybe it will show something that may be obvious to you guys out there.
100_0588.jpg
100_0589.jpg
 
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You have negative caster, that thing will wander like mad:eek:. Those springs look pretty good, and they still have some arch to them, maybe just put some normal shackles on it (but then your tires may not fit). Your relay rod is pretty angled, so that is where your bump-steer is from. If you want to stick with 35's, ditch those shackles, and put in some bigger springs (or SOA) . With that much lift you may want to look at getting a high-steer set up which will get your steering rod angle a lot flatter.
 

Cruiserdrew

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That is almost funny. Whoever set it up did not know about the importance of caster. I'm surprised you can even drive it.

Put normal length shackles on it, or if the springs are lift springs (I can't tell) use shackles maybe 1 inch longer than stock,

Remove that Rancho stabilizer and get an OME stabilizer mounted where the factory one is.

Then, tighten up the pre-load in the spring loaded drag link ends. It will feel like a new truck.

Those shackles are just all wrong on every level.
 
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I know the shackles are to much but if I go shorter on the shackles I will lose the hieght I need to keep the tires cleared, looking at the shackle if I shorten looks like I will have a inverted angle on the shackle and I want it pointing outward I may be wrong .
I am totally in the dark on castor how does this get corrected,I have read about shims and stuff were do the shims go,as far as SOA don't want to go there not willing to spend a ton of money on her just want to tighten up the steering.
 
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Ditch the big stupid Japanese shackles - they are a nightmare!

I have stacks of those things in the scrap metal bin - do the World a favour and toss them, they are dangerous.

Change your bushings to a good poly unit, and correct your caster angle. Install some "normal" shackles like the OMEGS1s or GS2s.

If you need the lift to run larger tires, then get some OMEs.

~John
 

Trapper50cal

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I dont think those are stock springs (semi-military tab) looks OME Medium, maybe? You can tackle this many ways. First Step is definitely to remove those ridiculous shackles. With a tad more vertical than you want...I would go with an extended anti-inversion SOR unit or same kind of design (1" or 2.5",) Definitely get the poly bushings (CCOT has a kit or prob. Kurt.) shim the springs w/ a shim kit. Check the TRE's and the hubs/knuckle plate preloads and see where you are on the tires...if need be move down a size. Whatever lift you have...you want it to be sound. If you aboslutely need to keep the tires, then pony up for some better (more lift) springs - Old Man Emu Heavies or Alcans - and some beefy, reasonable shackles/bushings. Or do a Spring Over/Cut&Turn/Hysteer
 

Cruiserdrew

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I know the shackles are to much but if I go shorter on the shackles I will lose the hieght I need to keep the tires cleared, looking at the shackle if I shorten looks like I will have a inverted angle on the shackle and I want it pointing outward I may be wrong .
I am totally in the dark on castor how does this get corrected,I have read about shims and stuff were do the shims go,as far as SOA don't want to go there not willing to spend a ton of money on her just want to tighten up the steering.

You will likely have to give up the big tires, or get leaf springs with a lot more arch and lift--Like the custom 5 inch alcans shown here.

If you don't end up with the right caster, your steering will be impossible to "tighten up" What you have now is unsafe. You may not want to hear that, but that is the bottom line. Your truck will tend to follow any groove in the road and I'll bet it's darty and unstable under hard braking. The status quo is not acceptable so something is going to have to change.

I would run a close to normal length shackle, which will bring your caster close to normal, and then just run the biggest tires that fit.

OME spring kits are very nice, they come with the right length shackles, and with it you can run 33 inch tires. You can sell the 35 inch tires to help pay for some of the work you need.

If you don't understand caster and how it affects steering and handling, then take your truck to someone who does. If you are in BC there are several Cruiser shops there that can help you out.
 
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Yup, toss those shackles. In addition to all the other comments...the leverage they place on the frame will crack the bushing mounts at the frame over time.

Axle to center of the tie rod for the steering damper is actually a better location then stock, however its not a solution for bad mojo, which is what that whole setup is.

Trapper50cal, how close does that tie rod come to the frame on full compression?
 

Trapper50cal

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Actually while I agree the other mounting position is good for some things....what if you get the wobbles? (Given that your knuckles should never be sloppy enough to produce wobbles) A stabilizer in the lower position doesn't have the backbone that being connected to the frame provides, only connected to the truck via the leaf spring bushings ultimately which would be wobbling also ( although I understand that connection to the tierod has a more direct connection to BOTH tires )highway+35's and long-ish shackles up front are the only reasons I have one at all. It never really gets any closer to anything than it already is. Draglink moves up and down way on the other side but not much where its mounted by the pittman. On the Tierod...Full Stuff, never touches anything, its close though.

You are right about those shackles having a lot of leverage against the spring hangers, its like little cro-bars
 
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If I shim my springs will this not roll my pinion to point downward from the drive shaft angle, when I look at the way it is now the pinion is in a staight line with the drive shaft, I know the u-joints compensate for any offsets to some degree,but is it not best to have the pinion and shaft in line with each other,I am assuming if I reduce the shackle length this will drop things more in line with each other (is this correct).

I am planning on turfing the shackles it's a Japanese thing what can I say thats not what sold me on the cruiser it was the cable locks,5 spd,and the turbo diesel.
 

Trapper50cal

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If I shim my springs will this not roll my pinion to point downward from the drive shaft angle, when I look at the way it is now the pinion is in a staight line with the drive shaft, I know the u-joints compensate for any offsets to some degree,but is it not best to have the pinion and shaft in line with each other,I am assuming if I reduce the shackle length this will drop things more in line with each other (is this correct).

I am planning on turfing the shackles it's a Japanese thing what can I say thats not what sold me on the cruiser it was the cable locks,5 spd,and the turbo diesel.
Yes, it will, and yes the u-joints compensate for that, and yes driveshaft angle is an important consideration, but so is caster and the ability for the truck to safely go down the road. Thats why people who Spring Over do a cut and turn and yes smaller shackles will bring everything in line more, caster and driveshaft/pinion angle.

None of us are ragging the vehicle, it sounds like it has some sweet features, just trying to keep you safe, which those shackles are not. You know, I don't like them, but if you got your suspension back in shape and needed more cleaarance on the cheap, you could get a body lift...
 

Cruiserdrew

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I'm sensing Diesler here is in denial. That's OK, we've all been there. The truck is awesome, and most of us would sell our souls for a diesel 60 with cable lockers and no rust.

Don't sacrifice safety for the big tire look. That's stupid. You'll be driving a 5000 pound missile, are you sure you want negative caster? It will be all over the road.

With a part time 4 wheel drive truck, the front driveshaft angles basically don't matter that much. It only matters when you are going fast, which you don't generally do in 4wd.

Figure out if those are stock springs or not. I think they are by the spring keepers. If that's the case, run stock length shackles. It really is that easy. Then run the tires that fit=maybe 31s or so and see how it handles. If you want bigger tires, then add the lift that allows you to run them.

If you really want to run 35's then get some pro help and do a spring over. If it were me, I get an OME heavy kit and run 33s. That will give you a much more useful truck.

With a cool truck like that, I would not be looking to take shortcuts.
 
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John what is aOMEGS1 or GS2s and were do I get them and how much
These are the Old Man Emu greasable shackles. The GS1s are a little longer than the GS2s, but they are pretty close to the stock length. They are a little spendy, but very nice quality and worth the price.

Availability: your local Old Man Emu dealer - I can can help you with these parts, I keep lots in stock. There is another OME dealer in your area (EBI - Port Moody).

Bushings, I have Terrain Tamer and Old Man Emu in stock. Use the OME bushings with OME springs, or save a little and use the TT units with other brands of springs.

Please call for current pricing on shackles.



~John
 
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Thanks guys I really appreciate the help you have offered ,the reason I posted was to get help from those who know better since this is one thing I know least about.
The fixes are in the works I have 5 Cruisers all needing some kind of part or fix and the money is tight just wanted as many options to solve this problem to fall within my budget.

We all know about the bottomless money pit ,what can I say I am a Cruiser Junky and need my daily fix.

If it ain't broken I break it so I can fix it.
 

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