Hey All (1 Viewer)

[autobon7]

My name is Morgan and I live about 40 mins north of St Louis in Jerseyville, IL. Anyone close? I have a 95 LC, will try to get pics up soon. Had a 97 a few years ago but lost in a bankrupcy/divorce and I'm just now able to get back into the LC scene.
My thoughts for building include a rear bumper with swingout tire carrier (allready have an arb front from PO), a 2.5" OME lift, new tyres, powder coat wheels black, nothing crazy as I just have mild/medium offroad intensions.
1st though I need to address some issues. CEL is on so I have 2 OS's I am picking up from cdan, hopefully will fix this issue. The big deal is that my driver side knuckle is leaking like a big dog and I have been trying to get by until tax time by pumping grease in about every 3 weeks. Anybody here rebuilt these before? I have not so I'm looking for help/guidance with this. What makes this tough is the fact that it's my only vehicle so a rebuild will have to take place on the weekend. I can supply food, beverage of choice, Panasonic Toughbook, Rigid SeeSnake, Bushmaster paintball gun, etc. Just don't have the $$$ to fork out to the Toy dealer. I know I'm "whoring" out but don't think this rig is gunna make it to tax refund time.

 

[Stumpkin]

Hey Morgan,

Glad to see that there is someone else in Jersey county into Cruisers.
I'm in Grafton. I haven't had to rebuild any knuckles yet but I have tools. E-mail me at edgewrks@gtec.com and we can get together. Tom

 

[MoJ]

Hi Morgan. Glad you found our local group.

A few of us have rebuilt the front axle. It's an all day job but not all that bad. I'm sure we can figure out a way to get you some help. If you order the rebuild parts from cdan expect to pay around $200 for both sides assuming only the seals are bad. Have you checked out the FAQ in the 80 series section of mud - there's a pretty good knuckle rebuild thread if you feel like DIY.

What CEL code are you getting?

 

[autobon7]

Thanks for the welcome guys, it's refreshing to get some positive replys. Have been on other non-lc forums where you get treated like s*^t for asking a question. Hey I'm the 1st to admit I have a lot to learn but ya gotta start somewhere. I appreciate the offers to help as I'm sure I'll need it. Want to come up with a detailed gameplan so that all the bases are covered (ya all know how that goes, lol).
1st need to know what other potential problems can be there regarding the knuckle. Can you identify these problems if you know what you are looking for or is it a situation where you don't know until ya open her up? Like a worst case scenario (that's how my luck rolls). I would like to get a list together of parts you all recommend replacing while we're in there. Any specialty tools needed?
I will have to get my buddy to hook up the scanner again and jot the code down (my bad).
Thanks, Morgan

 

[wfd175]

Thanks for the welcome guys, it's refreshing to get some positive replys. Have been on other non-lc forums where you get treated like s*^t for asking a question. Hey I'm the 1st to admit I have a lot to learn but ya gotta start somewhere. I appreciate the offers to help as I'm sure I'll need it. Want to come up with a detailed gameplan so that all the bases are covered (ya all know how that goes, lol).
1st need to know what other potential problems can be there regarding the knuckle. Can you identify these problems if you know what you are looking for or is it a situation where you don't know until ya open her up? Like a worst case scenario (that's how my luck rolls). I would like to get a list together of parts you all recommend replacing while we're in there. Any specialty tools needed?
I will have to get my buddy to hook up the scanner again and jot the code down (my bad).
Thanks, Morgan

Has your buddy reset the code at least once for you to see if it comes back?

With respect to the knuckes, your problem problem is most likely the inner axle seal between the knuckle and axle. If your front end isn't making any clicking noises during low speed turns, your axle seal is probablyt all that is wrong. You can also check the 4 bolts/nuts on the bottom of the knuckle to make sure they are tight. I can't recall the torque spec, someone will chime in. 71 ft pounds rings a bell for some reason. Just don't go apesh"t on them if you don't have a torque wrench handy.

But while your in there, with the kit you will receive trunion bearing races and bearings, the wheel bearings are usually in great shape.

You can also check your axle breather in the meantime to make sure the valve isn't stuck or clogged creating extra pressure in the axle case. It's a rubber tube that goes up from the axle and terminates along the firewall. I'm going to do my axle this winter, possibly at Miescha's shop if he lets me. It will be after the holiday's.

 

[autobon7]

It does pop sometimes, maybe 25% of the time, all at low speed. Does the knuckle have to come out to know the extent of the damage, if it's more than just seals etc? How long can you drive it before it gives up the ghost?
My buddy did reset the code and it came back up about 3 days later.

 

[Miescha]

I'm going to do my axle this winter, possibly at Miescha's shop if he lets me. It will be after the holiday's.

I have a shop?

Well, I do have access to a shop, but we'll need to be careful of the mega-bucks worth of new cars that are usually in the way of the lifts. Let me know when and I'll make arrangments in advance. We could probably line up four cruisers in a row and do them all at once. It would be cool to see if nothing else.

It does pop sometimes, maybe 25% of the time, all at low speed. Does the knuckle have to come out to know the extent of the damage, if it's more than just seals etc? How long can you drive it before it gives up the ghost?

You're toast - sell it quick.

Just kidding - welcome to mud

MoJ did his front end with assistance from WFD (I stopped by and laughed at all the grease on MoJ's new garage floor, but offered no help whatsoever). StlCruiser did his on his own in the driveway over a year ago (still has lower back problems), and george is doing his right now (he was planning to start and finish this past weekend but since he hasn't chimed in yet, I figure he is still stuck in the garage unable to finish the job). Toyminator rebuilds his on a regular basis out on the trail when they break (he must not order from CDan).

I did mine last October - saved my back by using a lift. I think one of us probably has the DVD instructional video floating around. If not, buy it on mud -well worth the money paid to elmariachi (and he's a really nice guy too!). I spent about one solid week on the job. That breaks down to five (5) solid to locate parts (you can never have the right grease no matter how much research you do; you can never buy enough shop towels and brake cleaner; and you better plan on burning your clothes when finished b/c your wife will kick your ass if you put them in the washer); one (1) day actually doing the work and one (1) day cleaning parts and your floor (but it all gets mixed together so you lose track of how much time you spend on each part).

I'm sure one of us will have whatever tools you need, and probably none of us will have time to drive all the way over to help (but we'll do it anyway). If you'll be doing the work between midnight and 3am, count me in. Otherwise, I'll need a lot more advance warning.

On the serious side, if your knuckles are popping even 25% of the time you really need to get in there and get the job done. There are no surprises, just order the "kit" from CDan or vendor of your choice and expect to spend another $100-200 on supplies (grease, gear oil, etc. . . ) depending on how anal you are about getting the best possible stuff. You might as well change the fluid in the transfer case and rear diff while you're at it and keep them all on the same schedule that way. Make sure you order the extra crush washers from CDan or you'll have leaks (ask me how I know).

If you have access to a cabinet-style parts washer, you can through the whole axle assembly in and really clean it up. If you already have popping, you should probably also switch the knuckles side-to-side (I planned on doing this even without any noise, but chickened out - no balls as usual).

I'll stop rambling - you need to stop reading and get it done!

 

[toyminator]

Well, I do have access to a shop, but we'll need to be careful of the mega-bucks worth of new cars that are usually in the way of the lifts. Let me know when and I'll make arrangments in advance. We could probably line up four cruisers in a row and do them all at once. It would be cool to see if nothing else.

Miescha, what you need to do is tell them guys they need to get those cars out of there. That building is to become the official midwest TLCA chapter clubhouse.

 

[autobon7]

Originally Posted by Miescha
[On the serious side, if your knuckles are popping even 25% of the time you really need to get in there and get the job done. There are no surprises, just order the "kit" from CDan or vendor of your choice and expect to spend another $100-200 on supplies (grease, gear oil, etc. . . ) depending on how anal you are about getting the best possible stuff. You might as well change the fluid in the transfer case and rear diff while you're at it and keep them all on the same schedule that way. Make sure you order the extra crush washers from CDan or you'll have leaks (ask me how I know).

Is there anything else besides the kit from cdan, supplies, and the extra crush washers?

 

[stlcruiser]

Hey Morgan:

Just in case, I would have a couple of hub studs handy (the ones that the cone washers are on).

A few specialty tools will also come in handy.

1.Brass drift to help removing cone washers
2. Snap ring pliers for C clip
3. Torque wrench
4. Hub socket
5. small tie rod end puller
6. punch to remove bearing races if putting in new bearings
7. seal puller
8. inner axel seal setter

These are all in addition to your jack stands, sockets, wrenches, Birf DVD, etc.

I would be happy to loan you what you need for a weekend.

Steve

 

[wfd175]

What is the lube list?

3% moly Qty? Spec
Diff Fluid. Qty? OEM
Bearing Grease Qty. Spec. Brand
Libations .

I need to get this stuff together also in preparation. Lucily there's a Napa in town.

 

[REKCUT]

This is good reading. has a list of shopping items also. Did this a few months ago along with new axles, gears and lockers. Very messy. I would save up and buy a parts washer. $80 or so at harbor freight. Very helpfull. I did more work than your talking about but its still very messy. A air powered greese gun is nice also.

 

[autobon7]

Hey guys, sorry I dropped out of sight for a bit but have some fairly serious health issues going on. Thought I was going to have to sell the cruiser but decided it'll hang with me through thick and thin so I have my 1970 BMW 2002 up for sale. It has a bunch of rust but mech. in decent shape.

Fixed one problem before I got sick, replaced the two o2 sensors and that took care of the cel. Still must address the front axels. My PHH is leaking so I have parts coming in today from McMaster Carr to address that problem this weekend.

I know at one point there was talk about getting 3 or 4 cruisers together on a weekend and knocking out some issues. Anyone still interested? If not I need to get a date set for mine and throw it out to see if any of you all could spare a little time to help guide/spin a wrench/attack a beverage or 3/food/BS and hopefully just have a little fun while we are taking care of business. Any thoughts?

Morgan

 

[wfd175]

Hey guys, sorry I dropped out of sight for a bit but have some fairly serious health issues going on. Thought I was going to have to sell the cruiser but decided it'll hang with me through thick and thin so I have my 1970 BMW 2002 up for sale. It has a bunch of rust but mech. in decent shape.

Fixed one problem before I got sick, replaced the two o2 sensors and that took care of the cel. Still must address the front axels. My PHH is leaking so I have parts coming in today from McMaster Carr to address that problem this weekend.

I know at one point there was talk about getting 3 or 4 cruisers together on a weekend and knocking out some issues. Anyone still interested? If not I need to get a date set for mine and throw it out to see if any of you all could spare a little time to help guide/spin a wrench/attack a beverage or 3/food/BS and hopefully just have a little fun while we are taking care of business. Any thoughts?

Morgan

Moj and I are having a work session next weekend (17th) to replace my valve cover gasket. His front axles need some paint as do both of mine. I just did my PHH with Moj a few months ago. I'm not sure where we will be getting together, either in Washington or Gerald. It would be nice if Miescha's facility is avail in the city.

 

[autobon7]

WFD, any comments about doing the phh? I have read a lot about this on the main board, more than I needed to I'm sure. I bought enough hose to do the bi-pass but I'm still riding the fence on that. Seems to make sense to me but the majority on the main forum keep it stock. Any thoughts on that idea?

 

[wfd175]

Keeping the hoses short/utilizing the OEM "tube" is possibly for vibration and some heat resistance.

We went in through the wheel well. My hands wouldn't fit up in there. But Moj's did.

You may have read about unbolting the tube and letting it swing out a little bit to remove the hose. I ended up messing up the bracket on the tube a little bit doing this. I would leave it bolted up until you're ready for the new section of hose. Just cut the old one off. Mine OEM PHH was stuck like a mother.

Moj said he thinks he's figured out a quicker way after wrestling with my PHH. Not sure exactly what he's come up with.

 

[autobon7]

" Moj said he thinks he's figured out a quicker way after wrestling with my PHH. Not sure exactly what he's come up with. "

Do tell Moj, do tell!!!

 

[MoJ]

" Moj said he thinks he's figured out a quicker way after wrestling with my PHH. Not sure exactly what he's come up with. "

Do tell Moj, do tell!!!

After fighting wfd175's PHH my theory is...

Disconnect the upper end of the downpipe that the PHH connects to (one easy to reach hose and a couple of hard to reach bolts that will require a swivel head ratchet). Once that's off, cut the PHH in half and catch the coolant. Slide out the downpipe with 1/2 of the PHH still attached to it and set it aside. Remove the remaining half of the PHH from where it's still connected to the block. Place a new PHH on the downpipe, snake it back into place, and connect it to the block. Re-connect the top of the down pipe and you're good to go.

 

[autobon7]

Have been putting serious thought into doing the phh bi-pass. I have enough silicone hose to do it and I'm kinda leaning that way. Got pretty good response when asked on the main board. What do you guys think?

 

[wfd175]

Have been putting serious thought into doing the phh bi-pass. I have enough silicone hose to do it and I'm kinda leaning that way. Got pretty good response when asked on the main board. What do you guys think?

I'd still attempt to re-install one in the OEM configuration. If you find it impossible, then go the easy route. LC's for the most part well thought out vehicles, there's probably some sort of engineering justification for the OEM setup with the hard line between the block and the diverter valve.