Help with installing 3fe (1 Viewer)

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Jan 24, 2006
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Ft. Worth , TX
Just picked up a good used 3fe for Jason at Cruiser Yard. Going to pull the blown engine in my 89 FJ62 and just swap it with the one I picked up. This will be my first time doing this so I tried to pick the easiest route to get her back on the road. I just wanted to get a little input form guys that have done this before ( things to do and to watch out for). Jason advised to change out the front, back and side gasket while the engine is out. Thanks in advance for any help I can get.
 
Label each end of all the hoses, elec connectors, etc to simplify the reassembly. Power wash and even consider a repaint of the firewall, if needed. Do the oil galley plug and a new rear main seal on the replacement motor before install. If the replacement motor is drooling any around the oil pan area, this would be a great time to replace that gasket, as well.
 
I second replacing all of the oil seals that you can while the engine is out. Way easier to do it now then waiting until they leak.

Other then that take some pictures and label things while pulling it out to ease in installation.
 
Replace the cooling hoses if you disconnect, hard to get to seal back up again.
 
Take more Digital Photos than you think you will ever need, before you start disconnecting the Old Engine.
 
Also do the seals in the transfer case and trans if needed while the motor is out of the way, I just had mine done last month and the labor alone cost over $700. I hate not having a garage/shop to work in anymore.
 
What year is the motor? There are differences in the sensors, harness plugs, etc, between years, much easier to swap them when the motor is out.
 
OK...you want to drop the pan to change the rear main seal- you get to examine the rear main bearing while you're at it. This means you will also be changing the oil pan gasket. be sure to place the rtv on the mating surface of the main cap and its base on the block and use sealer on the flexplate bolts, unless you got a manual like me, then it's the flywheel bolts. change any and all hoses as they suck to swap after install. might flip the gears in the oil pump, too. the side gasket should also be changed with engine out- the front seal while a good idea to change can be done with minimal invasion after install- almost easier with the engine in place as long as the radiator is out, mainly cause you can use the starter to loosen the crank nut. PLUG THE OIL GALLEY-use search, but I used the 8x1.25 tap and got the set screws plugs at fastenal- on their shelf even...I cannot speak to what to do with the auto trans side of the interface as I yanked mine before I had a chance for it to bum me out, but maybe something with the input seal and oil pump???others will correct me if I'm wrong, for certain...take pics make notes and cheats. might think about getting some connector housings from the JY or injector RX- about 3.50 per efi connector with terminals- I just replaced the housings and one terminal, but it was the WTS connector terminal...do the 2LO mod while you're under...I just did this swap on uneven dirt pulling the rig away from the engine trans and transfer dangling using a come along and chain and my other TLC. it was the first time under such adverse conditions(no moving cherry picker once loaded), and the first time doing all three big pieces as a unit,; I was a bit asceert at the onslaught, but after restting the same way as removing, I'd say with a stout cherry picker, the all three way is the best way. I am too old to stick a trans to a big block toyota six frumunda ever again. My 2 scents
 
PM Beno or cruiserdan on here. They will set you up with all the gaskets you need.
 

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