HELP! Wheeled hard broke something in front axel need advice

[Beyondstock]

Ok so I'm new here so I will explain what I own. Completely stock FZJ80 with 80k miles. Full factory lockers.

I was out wheeling this weekend, and hit a hil climb a little to hard. Something in the front broke. the short side axle near the outer hub is making noise when the drive shaft turns, however neither wheel spins.

Second thing, the transmission seems to slip up to 1800-2000RPMs then takes off.

Third, the vehicle rolls off when in park. I read on here that someone else didnt even have a axle attached in his front assembly and the same problem accured. Does park not lock the rear diff up instead of the front?

My question is would all these problems be directly related to the front assembly? I am going 6" ironman lift and 38s so I inteded on regearing. Can I purchase a complete center section already geared if so anyone direct me there? Upgraded front axles to longfields and there for replacing all parts inside my front case?

Someone please chime in because my toyota tech is telling me to just buy a whole new (used) front axle assembly but I'm regearing so what better time than the present?

 

[Frankencruiser]

Your tech is an idiot. You stripped a drive flange. Pull the dust cover off on the side that is making noise. The shaft inside is spinning but the wheel is not. IIRC it's about a $60 part.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

All three of your problems can definitely be attributed to something having let loose in the front end. The noise indicates something is broken, the transmission "slipping" is actually your viscous coupling in the transfer case hating you, and the truck rolling off in park is the fact that somewhere in the front axle something is broken and therefore all 4 wheels aren't locked together and therefore there is give in the system.

You probably stripped a drive flange or broke a birf or axle shaft. Very unlikely that you did any damage to the differential itself or the housing. I would say tear it apart and figure out what broke. Either way, Longfield will have what you need, be it shafts or a drive flange.

 

[Beyondstock]

If I'm already there I would like to go ahead and regear this thing.Like I said I'm going with 38s and 6". I read on this for two days and came up with the same answers indirectly that you've told me. I'm sure I've broke something more than a drive flange, as my tech did find a spring while draining the fluid. I'm praying I didnt distroy the E-locker. we are on the way of tearing it apart now.

 

[Beyondstock]

well looks like longfield has a master set of axles for 610$ for 27 spline and 765$ for 30... I've heard that the 30 spline limits my turning. Would it be worth compromising my steering for the extra strength?

Also would I need a master axle rebuild kit or anything?

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

You're going to 38's remember? You're already going to be pushing the limits of the 30-spline longfields under the weight of an 80.

Until you tear it apart you won't know what you need, but when doing a regear you'll at least need a minor install kit but I'd go ahead and order new bearings anyway.

 

[Beyondstock]

I actually contacted East Coast Gearing Supply. They seem to be really on point on what they are talking about. I stopped my tech on dissasembly as I'm leaning torwards having ECGS rebuild my third members and replace with longfields. It seems that the labor they are charging me would be cheaping to just take my whole fj80 to them so they can go through and replace whats needed.

 

[wakesetter]

unless you have a better than average dealership, you will be spending an aweful lot of money with them quite possibly for something you don't need. It sounds like you might have found a reputable aftermarket shop. Work with them or find a Mudder in your area that knows what he's doing and would maybe be interested in doing the work.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

I don't know your intentions with the truck, but anything over 4" is asking for trouble if you want to actually drive it. You'll have to sink a lot of time (and/or money) to get a 6" lift that's actually usable anywhere other than offroad.

IMO, anything above 4" and 37" tires on these trucks takes it to a whole 'nother level when it comes to modifications - a rather big step.

Just sayin', since you don't sound like you've done a whole lot of research just yet.

 

[GCRad1]

Sounds like your have stripped/broken the teeth on the outer flange. It's a rare item but I have done it and drove home by locking the center diff.
See my post #223 on this page of my thread and you can see the flange and axle:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/233037-gcrad1s-1992-adv-fj80-land-cruiser-12.html

 

[TexasJack]

I don't know your intentions with the truck, but anything over 4" is asking for trouble if you want to actually drive it. You'll have to sink a lot of time (and/or money) to get a 6" lift that's actually usable anywhere other than offroad.

IMO, anything above 4" and 37" tires on these trucks takes it to a whole 'nother level when it comes to modifications - a rather big step.

Just sayin', since you don't sound like you've done a whole lot of research just yet.

Amen to that! A Mud member here in Dallas tried to tell me that when I was first doing modifications to my 80 series. His suggestion was a 2.5 inch lift because it requires no regearing and only requires a fraction of the equipment replacement required for a 4 inch lift. I was hell bent on a 4 inch lift and I wound up paying for every single think he said I would pay for. Take that to the bank. It just becomes necessary for your truck to operate the way it should. Read Slees lift write-up here if you want to really understand what you are planning to do:

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm

And look at the equipment required for a 4 inch lift vs. a 2.5 inch lift:
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/80_suspension_ome.htm
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/80_suspension.htm

Many here on Mud will tell you that you won't need all of this equipment for a 4 or 6 inch lift but my personal experience has taught me that you will if you want to maximize the performance of your rig.

Am I sorry that I eventually went with Slee's 4 inch lift.....not a chance. It is a terrific lift that allows me to run true 35 inch tires with absolutely no rubbing. I did all of the red trails around Ouray / Silverton / Telluride this summer and never touched the bottom of the vehicle on any rocks.

But....you will spend a bunch of money to get there so be prepared.

I am sure to get flamed here on Mud but I would seriously question why you would want to run 37 inch tires. The 80 series is a HUGE vehicle to take rock climbing. It is great on 35 inch tires for almost anything you want to do with the vehicle unless your specific mission is to figure out what it won't do. If you go that route, you will likely tear the hell out of it as many on Mud have done. If your plan is to seriously tear it up, don't spend the money on sliders, a skid plate and heavy metal bumpers because they only help you avoid damage if you let them.

I am certainly not stating that my approach to wheeling is superior to anyone else's. It is up to the individual what he does with his vehicle and the greater chances you take, the more adrenaline you will generate....which I admit is loads of fun. Just keep in mind that those risks can equate to real money.

In any case, commit yourself to doing your homework before you dive into this big of a commitment.

 

[js93cruiser]

38's are approaching the limit for the factory lockers especially if your going to flog on it, I wheel my rig hard on 37's and have never had a problem with the old 27 spline longs.

 

[itbrokeagain]

I'm on 4 inches and 37s. I wheel it hard and dont have problems. 38s fit but it is tight. I say fix it and wheel stock for a while so you learn what it will do and learn the truck