help timing!!

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wheeler1981

10 Year 15 Year
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May 26, 2010
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I have read up alot already and heres what I found. I replaced the head and some other parts. I have it back together and running.
Heres the problem. I beleave the chains (2) skipped a tooth in the bottom sprocket. Timing is WAY OUT about a 1/4 of the crank pulley BTDC.

The question is is there a way to fix other than pulling the head and timing cover to and resetting he whle timing.. the motor is a 22r with weber carb.
 
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Assuming you are talking about an early R engine, yes you can pull the valve cover and take the cam gear off to move the chain. It's a pain to get it back on sometimes, but it is possible. Having a cam gear with holes in it makes it easier as you can run a long screw driver through it and use it to pry the gear back up to the camshaft. :cheers:

Make sure you know exactly which way and how many teeth you want to move it and keep tension up on the chain so it doesn't turn on the crankshaft as well.
 
Well I have read every thing I could and tried to get timing chain correct. I lined the crank at tdc with the cam at 12:00, 2 shiny links meshed with cam gear at the mark show in book, then cam gear put on cam. The dowel was still @ 12:00 on cam when i put in the cam gear and motor still at tdc.

The timing is still off the charts the mark shows up around a 1/4 turn advance around the pulley and it runs like crap. Does this sound correct. Have I done something wrong? Could it be something else making the timing out this much?
 
Maybe it's just never happened to me, but I don't think 22R's just skip teeth.

I think there has to be a reason.


If it was mine I'd be wondering what lead to that point and looking closely at the tensioner, and fix the problem, rather than putting a band-aid on it... B/c the next time it happens you might just be putting a head on it rather than just resetting the chain 2 teeth.


2 teeth is a lot on a dual row chain if you ask me...
 
make sure you are not out 180* when every thing is a tdc, make sure it is on the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke! you can do that by looking at your rockers too, both intake and exhaust, rocker should be loose enough to move!
 
toy4xfun said:
make sure you are not out 180* when every thing is a tdc, make sure it is on the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke! you can do that by looking at your rockers too, both intake and exhaust, rocker should be loose enough to move!
Click to expand...



Exactly. The best way to describe it OP, is that there are two TDC's.


The same mark that is used as TDC is used for B-TDC. And both times the #1 piston will be at TDC (only at different cycles in a 4 cycle process). But, and this is important, the distributor button will be pointing on the #4 spark plug wire.


Just like 4xfun says, you can check by the rockers too. But I recommend looking in a chiltons or FSM to see the process more clearly. Look in the adjusting valves or valve lash procedure and it will be clear as day.


Ok, so as not to confuse you... Put the crank at TDC, and look at the timing mark on the cam gear.

If it's at 6:00, straight down, the distributor button should be on the #4 piston wire.

If it's at 12:00, straight up, and the button should be on the #1.

If you're 180* out, don't try and set the distributor. Remove it and get the timing gear dot back to 12:00 then re install the dist with the cap off and the button pointing at a match mark you made where the #1 wire goes.

It's vary common to get the two mixed.
 
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ok tore apart again today FOUND THE PROBLEM chain tensioner is worn slap out the chain is not tight you can turn the crank about an 1" with out the cam moving at all. My question is can you remove the timing cover without removing the head? Just did the whole top end with new gaskets and would hate to have to buy new ones again.

I have a chain tensioner on my old 22r that is relatively new but it has a single chain will it workon the double chain?
 
Yes, but use lots and lots of caution. You might will want to assist it with a razor or something.

The thing about a cover is; Pan or Head. One's got to come off.


And I wouldn't use a single chain tensioner on a dual row chain.
 
If you don't pull either the head or the pan, you will more than likely end up with a lovely oil leak as your reward... Sorry... Yes, go get the right tensioner, though it's not supposed to be full tilt boogie when the engine is not running, it has a spring in it, but it's actually operated via oil pressure as far as I know... FYI... :cheers:
 
Thanks for the help everyone. I am going to pull the pan I believe it will be easier than the head and cheaper for the gasket. I realize after thinking about it that the tensioer is prob. still good because I replaced the head and Without removing the timing cover and I believe the chain slipped off the tensioner while installing the head.

I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again
 
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