Help please,..sump removal, engine in situ,....not happening

[Ptrott]

Tried to get my sump off my '93 80 series (1HZ manual) today to replace the big end bearings and fit a turbo drain, but it is not going as per all the tec write-ups I read prior to starting the project. (surprise surprise)

The sump has bee cut loose, and is free, but there is no way it can be removed as it is.

There are 2 long studs at the rear of the block (sump studs) so the sump can only move in one direction, i.e. down.

Problem is that the rear lip of the sump has a section in the middle, about 100mm long, where is protrudes back about 10mm further than the lip either side of it.

There is a corresponding indentation in the cover plate that covers the bottom half of the bell housing, BUT, the indentation does not go far enough down for the sump lip to clear the two studs, so it is trapped by the lip in the indentation.

I have removed the brackets at either the side of the bell housing, (bell housing to engine block) but the cover plate is still not able to be removed.

There is no mention of this problem, that I have been able to find anywhere, so can someone who has done this job on a diesel 80 please enlighten me as to what I hove done wrong?

Thanks.
PhillT.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

Not familiar with your exact situation, but can you double nut the studs that are in the way and then back them out?

 

[Ptrott]

I wish
They are between the sump and the bell housing cover plate, so not exactly accessible.

Once the sump is off, they will be turned into short locating dowels, which is what they should have been to begin with.

 

[Doghouse]

Got a photo? I had the sump off my '94 1HDT a couple of months back with no such issues. Maybe these longer studs were fitted at previous "engine out" rebuild? Can you cut them or break them and replace once the sump is removed?

 

[B Point]

Same as Doghouse....BEB's done on 1HDT last year and I don't remember anything like you are describing. Indeed, I'd like to see a picture..

 

[Ptrott]

I got it off with brute force. I got a drum-brake adjusting tool up there & forced the sump down. It eventually popped out of the recess and came down the studs, wrecking the threads as it did so, but at least I can get them out now.

I will replace them, but to make it easier to get on & off if it ever has to, I'll elongate the two stud holes in the sump lip. It only needs 3 mm to allow it to drop down. I will also cut them shorter,...they are far longer than necessary.
There was at least 12mm of thread sticking out past the nuts when they were on,..in fact I thought I would have a problem getting a socket on there, but it was just deep enough.

 

[Ptrott]

For future reference to anyone having this problem:

I elongated the two holes rearward, by about 25-30% of their diameter (2.5-3mm) and gave it a dry run.
It slipped straight in without any fouling whatsoever.

 

[Kernal]

Can you post up a couple of photos showing the fix?

 

[Ptrott]

Of what exactly? The elongated holes? Not much to see actually, I just got a chainsaw sharpening file & elongated them.

 

[Kernal]

In the US we don't see many diesels so not many reference points to know the area you're working on.

 

[Ptrott]

At the back end of the sump, Directly below the rear main crankshaft bearing, there are two studs, which along with about 30 bolts, hold the sump on, the studs were my problem.
Anyone with a 1HZ or HD-T who has this problem will work out the fix from the above posts I'm certain,...but there is alway a P.M. available if they need any more detail.

 

[Ptrott]

I managed to get a pic of the recess in the bell housing cover plate.
It is a crappy pic, but the recess is just below the stud. Th

e other pic shows clearly the protrusion that sits in the recess, and caused my issue.