Help needed installing new AHC pump

[suprarx7nut]

Just in case it helps anyone else, I had to replace my pump again. Here are the steps - definitely a 1 at most:

Symptom: AHC stuck in low, OFF light flashing. DTCs of continuous current to pump motor (C1751) and abnormal oil pressure for pump (C1762).

First, decide what all you need to remove - you can take the entire assembly (bracket, pump, and reservoir) all at once, or you can just remove the pump and reservoir. I decided to take the latter route, because it looked like you'd have to pull the fender liner to get access to nuts holding the bracket to the body.

1. Bleed the accumulator (long cylindrical bit on the DS outer frame rail)
2. Use a siphon to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir
3. Use a crowfoot 10 mm wrench to remove the fluid line from the pump and unclip the plastic clip holding the fluid line in place
4. Remove the 3 electrical connectors
5. Unbolt the pump from the black bracket - there are 3 10 mm bits - two nuts and a bolt. The nuts are on the front and back of the pump - you don't need to remove them completely, just loosen them halfway. The rear one can be a PITA to get to, but can be done with a standard wrench. A ratcheting wrench would help immensely.
6. Unbolt the bolt - it's hidden as the head is underneath the pump but can be accessed by wrench
7. Remove the pump and reservoir from the bracket - it lifts straight up.
8. Swap in the new pump - I also swapped out my original reservoir with the replacement, as mine was cleaner inside. This can be done by removing the two bolts holding the reservoir to the pump.
9. Reconnect the fluid hard line, then the bolts, nuts, and electrical connections.
10. Refill with fluid well above the MAX line, start the car, and clear any codes if necessary. The pump should begin to run.
11. Raise the vehicle to N so that your fluid level can be read accurately. Fill above MAX again.
12. Turn vehicle off, flush fluid from the accumulator again to remove any air from the system.
13. Turn the vehicle back on and let it adjust - add fluid to MAX as necessary.

All in all, including spending 30 minutes chasing down an issue that ended up being an improperly seated electrical connector, this job took me 1.5 hours and cost me $100 for the pump and fluid. I hope this helps someone in the future as I've never seen a complete DIY posted on how to replace the pump.

I would love to know if the pump was the problem in the end. I assume not if you had to replace it twice, but the long term follow up here would be awesome.

During this process do you close the cap for AHC reservoir? I mean when you’re bleeding and also at the end checking air in the system. Do you close the cap or leave it open?

Doesn't matter. I like to keep the cap on so I don't lose it. The fluid rushes back with a little force when lowering, but I don't think it's enough to splash out of the reservoir.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Just in case it helps anyone else, I had to replace my pump again. Here are the steps - definitely a 1 at most:

Symptom: AHC stuck in low, OFF light flashing. DTCs of continuous current to pump motor (C1751) and abnormal oil pressure for pump (C1762).

First, decide what all you need to remove - you can take the entire assembly (bracket, pump, and reservoir) all at once, or you can just remove the pump and reservoir. I decided to take the latter route, because it looked like you'd have to pull the fender liner to get access to nuts holding the bracket to the body.

1. Bleed the accumulator (long cylindrical bit on the DS outer frame rail)
2. Use a siphon to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir
3. Use a crowfoot 10 mm wrench to remove the fluid line from the pump and unclip the plastic clip holding the fluid line in place
4. Remove the 3 electrical connectors
5. Unbolt the pump from the black bracket - there are 3 10 mm bits - two nuts and a bolt. The nuts are on the front and back of the pump - you don't need to remove them completely, just loosen them halfway. The rear one can be a PITA to get to, but can be done with a standard wrench. A ratcheting wrench would help immensely.
6. Unbolt the bolt - it's hidden as the head is underneath the pump but can be accessed by wrench
7. Remove the pump and reservoir from the bracket - it lifts straight up.
8. Swap in the new pump - I also swapped out my original reservoir with the replacement, as mine was cleaner inside. This can be done by removing the two bolts holding the reservoir to the pump.
9. Reconnect the fluid hard line, then the bolts, nuts, and electrical connections.
10. Refill with fluid well above the MAX line, start the car, and clear any codes if necessary. The pump should begin to run.
11. Raise the vehicle to N so that your fluid level can be read accurately. Fill above MAX again.
12. Turn vehicle off, flush fluid from the accumulator again to remove any air from the system.
13. Turn the vehicle back on and let it adjust - add fluid to MAX as necessary.

All in all, including spending 30 minutes chasing down an issue that ended up being an improperly seated electrical connector, this job took me 1.5 hours and cost me $100 for the pump and fluid. I hope this helps someone in the future as I've never seen a complete DIY posted on how to replace the pump.

Replaced my AHC pump today. Thought I'd add some pics to go with these instructions

First:I strongly recommend taking the whole assembly out. It is ridiculously easy, just turn the wheels to the left and take three n
12 mm nuts off. Then take off one 12 mm bolt off front the top side. Take off the fluid line and plugs and pull the whole assembly out. Barely takes 15 min!!

underside of the bracket, note the three threaded posts where the 12 mm nuts go

10 mm nut to remove the pump assembly from the bracket. There is another one like that on the other side

2 10 mm bolts to take off the reservoir

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Three 10mm bolts to remove the pump cover

Pump's orientation

Pump gasket. Also new vs old pump. Note: only two 4mm Allen bolts need to be removed.

Be very careful when putting the pump cover back on. The gasket must remain in the groove. Don't over tighten the three 10 mm bolts.

 

[Jcreme]

During this process do you close the cap for AHC reservoir? I mean when you’re bleeding and also at the end checking air in the system. Do you close the cap or leave it open?

I'm certain you've moved on, but for future reference for anyone else that lands on this thread, it does not matter if the cap is on or off. I usually leave it off until I am finished doing everything.