Help needed: 2H diesel cut out--random (1 Viewer)

[LCDiesel60]

I could use some 'wisdom' from those of you with more experience on the 2H engine (86' HJ60, 5-speed, Canadian version, 24V).

PROBLEM: today twice and the other day once when driving along around 50/55 mph (USA) the engine would cut out and back in for a second--exact same 'feel' as when you are driving a gas rig and turn the key off/on quickly--

I was driving evenly, I checked oil pressure and it was about 40% to 50% of gauge so that looked good--charge looked normal (28 to 30 v) headlights working fine--heater was on and running fine...

I'm guessing a fuel cut-out response (filter changed and no primary fuel bowl indicator light on)--hasn't happened during idle or low speeds 'yet' but wanting to fix before this leaves me stranded.

?--relay, sensor, EDIC-but maybe too quick for EDIC..? more likely a loose wire--?--where?

Thanks a lot for any help to avoid a break down or wasted time looking the wrong places would be GREATLY appreciated!!

LCDiesel60
Oregon, USA

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

I could use some 'wisdom' from those of you with more experience on the 2H engine (86' HJ60, 5-speed, Canadian version, 24V).

PROBLEM: today twice and the other day once when driving along around 50/55 mph (USA) the engine would cut out and back in for a second--exact same 'feel' as when you are driving a gas rig and turn the key off/on quickly--

I was driving evenly, I checked oil pressure and it was about 40% to 50% of gauge so that looked good--charge looked normal (28 to 30 v) headlights working fine--heater was on and running fine...

I'm guessing a fuel cut-out response (filter changed and no primary fuel bowl indicator light on)--hasn't happened during idle or low speeds 'yet' but wanting to fix before this leaves me stranded.

?--relay, sensor, EDIC-but maybe too quick for EDIC..? more likely a loose wire--?--where?

Thanks a lot for any help to avoid a break down or wasted time looking the wrong places would be GREATLY appreciated!!

LCDiesel60
Oregon, USA

Did you hear a clicking in the passenger side kick panel? That's where the edic relay is.
Could be a faulty oil pressure sensor or bad oil pressure (the factory gauge is not very reliable-mine would be up at 80% when cruising at 55). Also check the wires from the oil pressure sensor as well as the terminals on the sensor. if they touch they short out and kill the engine. I had this happen when driving in the rain with the wires a little frayed.
J

 

[LCDiesel60]

'J'--perfect!!
Thanks, those are the details I'm looking for-now that you mention it, yes, I hear a short/quick click in that location (passenger kick panel)--rig is noisy now with all padding/carpet out pending interior upgrade work. I will check those connections before I hit the road in a few minutes. I have those spare parts but saving till I really need them--really sounds more likely to be an intermittent short so will pursue that.
Pending is the install of the new sending unit I have 'T'd' into a mechanical oil pressure gauge all at the same time we install the turbo/intercooler (AXT) and associated gauges--engine looks and feels real solid, so I doubt it is actually 'low oil pressure'.

See you have an HJ60--great to have some feedback from a similar rig owner--!!

Take care,
MG
Oregon

 

[Tapage]

if you are sure about your oil pressure and in my esperience that won't be a random issue less inHW driving at high rpm range ..

You will have a bad ground issue of alt issue to check ..

 

[LCDiesel60]

Tapage--thank you from Panama!
I will check that as well since it appears the oil pressure sensor unit has a good connection--.

We have had the rig for about 6 months and I believe the PO parked it most of the time so as I drive it often--getting the 'bugs' worked out of it and going through everything.

Prior to buying this, the prior 1.5 years I read many of your posts--both rig details and your mud 'parties' and enjoyed those--some of your experiences have been the basis for my maintenance and improvement plans as I want the rig to be in very good condition when I start driving it daily. Right now driving it for about a month to figure out what needs to be done that I didn't find during the visual inspections.

Thanks again for the help!
LCDiesel60
Oregon,USA.

 

[lowenbrau]

I've had the same symptoms when the ground path was failing between the engine and batteries. Be sure your ground straps from the engine to frame to fender to battery negative are all good. You can troubleshoot the problem by watching your EDIC motor do the funky chicken and connecting your booster/jumper cables from the batteries to various body/frame/ engine locations until the EDIC smartens up.

 

[LCDiesel60]

Thanks Lowenbrau---

That makes sense--I've replaced all the cables except the ground cable on the batteries and sounds like I should check that cable and also the attachment to the block/body--didn't do that when I replaced all the other battery cables. P.O. kind of left a mess and have been cleaning up wiring concerns. About an hour ago the starter didn't fully engage on the first try then was fine--so possibly a low/intermittent ground problem like you said.
Will look at this weekend--been a really long Friday--

Thanks again everyone for the input--don't know and LC mudders around Portland, OR yet and diesels are really rare here--so glad for the support and help. I know how to rebuild/repair the mechanicals--but wiring is something I'm still learning on this 24V CAD rig.

Have a good weekend!
LCDiesel60
Oregon

 

[RED47]

hey mate i see everyone is talking about earth straps etc, but i had a similar problem with my 2h 40 series, went to the shops 1 day and came back out to go back home, got in turned the key and it would start and run for about 2 seconds...played around with a few things and managed to get it running and home, over the following weeks it did it randomly and shutting down at any kind of speed or engine revs, long story short it was a fuse, my hj47 runs the cylindrical glass type fuses (i think yours would be the same) there is a fuse that gives power to the motor. The solder on the end of the fuse had broken away and was giving an intermittent contact!!

I'm not saying the other guys arent right but its worth a look at the fuses
RED47

 

[LCDiesel60]

Thanks Red47--glad you found the fix.
I will check for that type of fuse--haven't run across any under the hood in the past but haven't gone through everything yet either but will do so just in case.

Thanks--winter starting here--Spring in AUS--enjoy!
LCdiesel60
Oregon

 

[FinHJ60]

Yes, EDIC is fast when it's doing the funky chicken.

The fuse RED47 is mentioning is in the dash fusebox, but I think -86 has flat fuses, not glass ones.

All above have been good things to check, also, at least here in Finland we have had several that were fixed by re-heating all solderings from that EDIC-relay.

When checking the oil pressure sensor, keep in mind that gauge has one larger, and EDIC has it's own right next to it. Easy way to test, unhook it and tape the connector from the wire, if problem goes away, change sensor.

 

[LCDiesel60]

FINHJ60--2 oil pressure sensors--? Wasn't aware of that--thanks, will check that when I take out the starter for the rebuild and replace the oil pressure by-pass repair that I've heard about--parts should be here later this week and will do the work in about 2 weeks--the EDIC is a hard place to see into.

Yes--flat blade fuses--thanks for tip on re-solder--hoping not to have to work that 'hard' at it but will see.

Thanks everyone for all the great suggestions and help!!

LCDiesel60
Oregon

 

[FinHJ60]

Yep, the sensor for gauge is larger, round one, and the one for EDIC is small, looks like a nut with wire, same as in every small toyota's oil pressure warning light. On-off type.

 

[1tontoy]

Did you recently spray with water the engine bay?

 

[LCDiesel60]

FINHJ60-must be tight under the intake or EDIC area as I hadn't seen it from the fender well/rad area so I'm guessing will find it when I take the starter out for the rebuild and replace the oil pressure sender--thanks.

1-tonToy--no, no recent engine wash or water--happened in fact during a longer than normal dry- spell around here. I like the photo in your listing-is that your rig--pretty rare!

Thanks all--so far engine hasn't faltered since I posted this 'help' request--but I'll still check these ideas out since I want this to be fully dependable, like an 'expo rig'.

Take care,
LCDiesel60
Oregon

 

[FinHJ60]

For expedition or even shorter trips, if getting funky chicken or other EDIC problems, you can pry off the EDIC shaft to get home, you just have to either stall your engine with gear or open hood and manually turn the stop-lever on the pump. It will sit freely in the RUN-position.

If I remember right, the EDIC-sensor is couple of inches forward from the gauge one, it is small and hard to see.

 

[LCDiesel60]

Hello FinHJ60--thanks; glad to know their is a field technique for continuing on--that was the main reason I wanted an older rig and diesel--no technology to leave me stranded like my newer Ford diesel truck--too many computers and sensors.

Take care,
LCDiesel60

 

[BosBok]

I've found that mine cuts out when there's a bigger than usual current draw from the alternator. In my specific case it's when I drive with the lights on and have the fan going (apart from powering the 2nd battery that's running the fridge and the vhf/uhf 2way).

To get rid of the problem (during troubleshooting) I turn off the lights and the prob goes away.
Next steps are to replace all ground wires, clean and inspect fuse/relay panel's connection and at the same time do the mod to power the lights directly from the battery and use the existing harnass just for switching the relay.

I'm convinced that is the solution to the hiccups.

 

[cruiser_guy]

I've been having similar issues with my 3B. It was NOT the sensor as it kept doing this when the sensor was disconnected. It WILL continue to run with the arm to the EDIC disconnected. If you pull the harness off the EDIC relay the truck WILL NOT start unless the arm is off the EDIC motor as well.

Mine has since started "behaving" itself but I have also noticed that my rear wiper works better now than it did so the faulty grounds sounds like a good bet to this problem.

 

[LCDiesel60]

BosBok--thanks for the input--I"ll be parking the rig in a couple of weeks to go through this and install the turbo and lockers, so will check some of the relay connections you noted. Regarding the headlight wiring mod--I don't recall reading that before--do you have a link to that to give me some tips..? Thanks!

Cruiser-guy--Hi Charles--sorry to hear you have this challenge as well--I'll be going through the ground system in a couple of weeks more closely--so far I've replaced portions of the system and inspected portions, but still have more to do--still haven't installed those parts I bought from you at Fry's a few months ago--way behind in my cruiser plans.

Take care all and thanks again!!
LCDiesel60
Oregon

 

[LCDiesel60]

Well I've tried about everyone's ideas and still have the problem with random EDIC hic-cups during cruising (never at lower RPM or idle); so far have done the following: replaced dedicated oil pressure switch for EDIC (was R/R the starter for rebuild and replaced sender just because it's so hard to get to--while there, also replaced oil pressure sender and did mod for mechanical oil pressure gauge as well), cleaned and inspected all primary grounds associated with the engine, tightened the wire plug/clip for the oil pressure sender to EDIC for tighter fit, all flat fuses style and haven't noticed anything there--removed all and contacts appeared to be good and fit snug.

The 'hic-cup' does result in the EDIC relay clicking on right side kick panel area where relay is located--checked plugs visually to EDIC relay and at EDIC by opening and did visual then back together.

Haven't done the re-solder as noted above in one input as that would be a lot of work and require wiring harness removal-.

BosBok--you mentioned headlight harness 'mod'; can you explain this more? I've read about it somewhere for 12V systems but have not run across said mod for 24V headlights. I put newer class IV style bulbs and also replaced 3-plug to each headlight with new ones for better connections--I always drive with headlights on and heater is on low speed most times. NOTE: just did the Alt rebuild with double the amps output (50amps) on 24V unit as noted in another article by Stone in BC/Canada--so plenty of output on alt.

ANY suggestions or input would be great--! I've considered replacing the EDIC relay..and will as a next step if no other ideas--it's just that this is so random I can't replicate it (shaking wires when idling, or revs for oil pressure change....or..).

Thanks all!
LCDiesel60
Oregon, USA