Help Needed. 1HDT into a BJ73 clearance question

Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
29
Location
Midlands UK
Hi,
I am putting a 1HDT with a manual gearbox into a Bj73, I thought it was sitting well but have noticed how close the sump is to the front diff. Any thoughts or advice?
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Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Messages
30
Location
Panama
Hi dude. I have HZHDJ75 92. I think you need to change the oil pan and little lift suspension.
Advice:
- Change rear crankshaft seal (90311-95008) Prevent future oil leaks.
- Replacement all water hose (diesel pump and turbo).
- Replacement intake manifold gasket.

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Regards.
 
Joined
Mar 11, 2007
Messages
2,252
 
 
Make sure you have the right engine mounts etc and HZJ75 sump. FYI the 1HZ was not available with the big diff front from factory, only the smaller high pinion, which might impact clearance, I do not know.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2017
Messages
157
Location
California
I just finished an hdt swap on my 70 and don't have any clearance issues with the sump. I used hzj7x series mounting arms on the block, hzj7x mounting brackets for the frame, and added a leaf on each side of the front. I was also able to use the original transmission/cross-member mounts as the reference for the engine position, but it looks like you're not using an h55f.

Another member shared this video with me before I started
It's for an fte but mounting procedure should be the same as the combo you have, he does mention a sump clearance issue in there as well. He drills new holes in the leaf mounts so he can move the axle forward.
 
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
1,356
 
 
 
 
I had an cable locker and 2" lift and still nailed the oil pan at that point. I did not breech the pan and it held during the term that the hdt ran in the truck set up that way.

In 2014 I switched the truck to a modified 2012 hzj76 frame with high pinion and never had issues after.
 
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
29
Location
Midlands UK
So far so good.
I used the 80 series mounts and re welded them onto the 73 chassis rails a lot higher. Just so the oil filler is mm off the bonnet and to my surprise the original gearbox cross member fits perfectly. I have (credit to a pal who has already done this for the pics) removed the high/low leaver and made a bracket so it sits lower and forward to use the existing 70 series hole in the cab. Will post some pics tomorrow. Thanks for the help so far!
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2003
Messages
17,612
Location
Perth Western Australia
 
 
 
The engine looks way too low to me. I suspect its the 80 series mounts or the positioning of them. I used 75 series mounts. From memory, the engine mount brackets for the 1HZ I put in my FJ73 , had the rubber bits above the height of the chassis, your mounts are sitting about level.

Try putting a string line across the engine bay at the height of the fenders with the line passing over the oil cap. I seem to remember my oil cap was about 20mm below the string.
Try comparing my pic to yours. You can see the timing cover is slightly above the fan shroud.


new cruiser 006.jpg
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2003
Messages
17,612
Location
Perth Western Australia
 
 
 
Im not sure if the brackets were actually welded here but you can see how they look up against the chassis.
The mounts on a 75 series chassis before they were removed for welding onto my chassis

robs pics 082.jpg


1HZ pics 018.jpg
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2003
Messages
17,612
Location
Perth Western Australia
 
 
 
FYI the 1HZ was not available with the big diff front from factory, only the smaller high pinion, which might impact clearance, I do not know.
It wasnt a problem for me. I had a 2 1/2 inch lift from Dobinsons but it still probably have been ok without the lift.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
29
Location
Midlands UK
Its in!! I went a lot higher and further back. turned out I could use the original trucks gear box mount so that was one less thing to have to do. Going to have to have the rear drive shaft shortened and the front one fits but I think it needs lengthening by a couple of cm. I made a side mounted bracket to bring the High/low leaver forward so it uses the original hole in the truck. Now I am just staring at the wiring, the plumbing of the power steering etc etc. A pal also reminded me of having to change a few of the engine sensors to 24v as the truck is 24 but the engine currently is 12v. Do I get new drive shafts or get mine modified? ermm.... got to stay motivated.
 
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
29
Location
Midlands UK
Hahah, I just realised I had already updated further back. Worrying times when you do not remember doing so. I always like to reply when I get help as there are so many dead end forum posts where the help is received but the folk are never updated and thanked.
 
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