Ok here is some ABS101, take it from me, I swapped FZJ80 axles under my LR Discovery2, which is a truck that takes alot of info from wheelspeed sensors.
First off, almost all (except optical sensors on high end euro cars) WSS's are made up of notched rings on a hub body, and a magnetic sensor/probe. The probe reads the RPM of the ring through the tick marks. This then sends an AC sine wave back to the computer, the computer then translates it into a speed signal. So basically this means you could take your FJC and plug in the WSS from an FZJ80, a Dodge 3500, a Ford Focus, or a Land Rover, and you will get a reading from the sensor. Problem is, you probably will not get an accurate reading. It will be off by a certain percentage, like my truck with FZJ80 wheel speed sensors hookd up to Rover computer, I have to multiply the speed i see on the speedo by 1.6 to get my actual speed. This can be fixed (i am working on it) there is a company in michigan who sells an AC sine wave progressive converter to fix this problem, however you would need one per wheelspeed sensor, and these boxes are about $200 each. The WSS itself does not care what tire you have on it, but the computer does, your speedo will run slow because of it.
Next big thing i dont think anyone has mentioned, ABS computers are very picky with speed signals. If you have a Dana 60 from a ford it is going to most likely output a slower speed signal than youre rear OEM wheelspeed sensors. This will either cause ABS to kick in and try to correct the difference it sees between front and rear wheels, or it will just fault the system and turn it off and turn on your ABS light. To correct this problem you would then need to go buy $400 of AC sine wave correction boxes, and even then its a hit or miss.
Now if you were getting a pair of axles from a stuporduty or ram this would work. All 4 wheelspeed sensors would be the same and output the same signal. The signal would probably be off, as in reads slow on the speedo, but the ABS computer sees that all wheels are rotating at the same speed when going straight so the computer does not care that its recieveing a slow signal because the system is designed to function at any speed so it will work.
Honestly, no matter how good the ABS controlled traction system is, it wont beat locking diffs. I hate ABS on the road, and pulled all of the fuses on my discovery once the locked 80 axles went in. I only have the 2 rear sensors hooked up, and almost all ABS computers that control speedometer are designed to be able to run a signal to the speedometer from just one sensor, if for some reason the other 3 fail. Having said this, your best bet would be to get your Dana 60 front and not run sensors, keep your rear sensors attached, and just unplug your abs fuse. If you have a lifted truck on 35s or 37s ABS is not going to do much for you in terms of preventing a rollover anyways. Just my $.02
First off, almost all (except optical sensors on high end euro cars) WSS's are made up of notched rings on a hub body, and a magnetic sensor/probe. The probe reads the RPM of the ring through the tick marks. This then sends an AC sine wave back to the computer, the computer then translates it into a speed signal. So basically this means you could take your FJC and plug in the WSS from an FZJ80, a Dodge 3500, a Ford Focus, or a Land Rover, and you will get a reading from the sensor. Problem is, you probably will not get an accurate reading. It will be off by a certain percentage, like my truck with FZJ80 wheel speed sensors hookd up to Rover computer, I have to multiply the speed i see on the speedo by 1.6 to get my actual speed. This can be fixed (i am working on it) there is a company in michigan who sells an AC sine wave progressive converter to fix this problem, however you would need one per wheelspeed sensor, and these boxes are about $200 each. The WSS itself does not care what tire you have on it, but the computer does, your speedo will run slow because of it.
Next big thing i dont think anyone has mentioned, ABS computers are very picky with speed signals. If you have a Dana 60 from a ford it is going to most likely output a slower speed signal than youre rear OEM wheelspeed sensors. This will either cause ABS to kick in and try to correct the difference it sees between front and rear wheels, or it will just fault the system and turn it off and turn on your ABS light. To correct this problem you would then need to go buy $400 of AC sine wave correction boxes, and even then its a hit or miss.
Now if you were getting a pair of axles from a stuporduty or ram this would work. All 4 wheelspeed sensors would be the same and output the same signal. The signal would probably be off, as in reads slow on the speedo, but the ABS computer sees that all wheels are rotating at the same speed when going straight so the computer does not care that its recieveing a slow signal because the system is designed to function at any speed so it will work.
Honestly, no matter how good the ABS controlled traction system is, it wont beat locking diffs. I hate ABS on the road, and pulled all of the fuses on my discovery once the locked 80 axles went in. I only have the 2 rear sensors hooked up, and almost all ABS computers that control speedometer are designed to be able to run a signal to the speedometer from just one sensor, if for some reason the other 3 fail. Having said this, your best bet would be to get your Dana 60 front and not run sensors, keep your rear sensors attached, and just unplug your abs fuse. If you have a lifted truck on 35s or 37s ABS is not going to do much for you in terms of preventing a rollover anyways. Just my $.02
