- Thread starter
- #21
My cig lighter is 24VC also. It seems just about everyting it. When I wire up that converter I am thinking about rewiring it to 12 thought so I can just my phone charger etc.
HELP Mounting Aftermarket Stereo (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter VTCruiser
- Start date
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Everything except the headlights on VT's Cdn spec HJ60 will be 24V. Everything on Cdn spec 24V Cruisers is 24V except the headlights (unless they have been PO'd).
If you look on your cellphone charger you may see that it is good up to 30V's or so. Mine is.
That said, when Stone installed my Solar Converter on my BJ74 he switched the cig lighter to 12V.
gb
If you look on your cellphone charger you may see that it is good up to 30V's or so. Mine is.
That said, when Stone installed my Solar Converter on my BJ74 he switched the cig lighter to 12V.
gb
Boy I remember going through this. I had an Alpine stereo and used the 24V ground and it cuased a background noise and ppor quality sound in the speakers. I remember the HJ60's wiring being odd. Back then Surepower converters were all the rage but this one was designed for a fancy stereo. So it has a 12V memory for the clock, presets etc that you hook the "yellow" wire to that comes from the stereo, a 12V ground, and a swtiched current 12V that you hook the stereo's red wire. Worked great and flawless and I also switched the cig lighter to 12V as well though I didn't need to since cell phones can take anything from 6-32V. Anywhoo...
- Thread starter
- #25
Hey moose -
I ended up wiring my solar converter in "step down" mode to a 6 gang fuse panel on the driver kick board, then wired the deck to the fuse panel.
I haven't had a chance to rewire the cig lighter, but it too will probably be wired to the fuse panel. I imagine it is not a big task. I think i am getting pretty good at this whole wiring business.
I ended up wiring my solar converter in "step down" mode to a 6 gang fuse panel on the driver kick board, then wired the deck to the fuse panel.
I haven't had a chance to rewire the cig lighter, but it too will probably be wired to the fuse panel. I imagine it is not a big task. I think i am getting pretty good at this whole wiring business.
VT: Check out the thread for tips on using a 24v relay to wire up a radio and anything else needing a switched source of 12v power: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=30647.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Greg_B said:
Now that I am elbow deep in my 24-12v conversion I am really curious about this... I noticed this little finned aluminum box in the driver side fender well as well. If its failing or has failed in all the 24v cruisers then whats happened to the stuff downstream of it? What was it meant to power? Could this be why my clock sometimes works and sometimes doesnt?
I would like to know as I would like to replace its functionality with my solar converter... which would mean removing this old box and hooking up which leads to my converter?
thanks!
dieselcruiserhead said:
Just did a Kenwood stereo install and seem to have reproduced this bug... very staticy sound (mostly in the bassy sounds) above about half volume on the stereo. You think its this grounding issue?
I am using the solar converter in convert mode presently and just hooked the stereo to the factory stereo ground.
Speaking of which I now have a factory HJ60 24v stereo with the factory tape deck all in perfect working condition if anyone doing a restoration wants it...
Zander: Staticy sound is most likely a speaker issue...especially if you are using the old factory ones made out of paper. Those speakers are prone to moisture damage especially after so long. They could also be blown.
Just to make sure that there are no issues with your speaker wiring, I would remove the speakers and check the wiring at the stereo end. Check to make sure that there is no continuity between the (+) and (-) wire of each speaker without the speaker being connected. Also check that there is no continuity between ground and any of the speaker wires. When the speaker is hooked up, check to see that there is 4 ohms between the wires. Even if you do get a 4 ohm reading on a speaker, that just means the voice coil is okay, but the paper cone may be badly damaged causing the poor sound. HTH.
Just to make sure that there are no issues with your speaker wiring, I would remove the speakers and check the wiring at the stereo end. Check to make sure that there is no continuity between the (+) and (-) wire of each speaker without the speaker being connected. Also check that there is no continuity between ground and any of the speaker wires. When the speaker is hooked up, check to see that there is 4 ohms between the wires. Even if you do get a 4 ohm reading on a speaker, that just means the voice coil is okay, but the paper cone may be badly damaged causing the poor sound. HTH.
Thanks for your help...
It was indeed the speaker grounding. (I installed new speakers as well so I knew the problem wasnt those) It was the easiet fix you can imagine, I just clipped the second ground lead coming out of the new Kenwood stereo harness. I guess it didnt like being looped back on itself. Sounds great now. I will be running independant grounds to the speakers in the future however.
The hardest part of this install was mounting the radio. I made a set of "brackets" out of plumbers tape (the perforated bendable metal strapping in the plumbing section). And bolted that to the factory radio hanger after bending its mounting taps 90 degrees. I then inserted the DIN socket into the two brackets and bent out its little wing parts until it couldnt move and then slid the stereo in. Seems very stable but leaves a little gap on either side I am going to fill later.
thanks for all your help.
It was indeed the speaker grounding. (I installed new speakers as well so I knew the problem wasnt those) It was the easiet fix you can imagine, I just clipped the second ground lead coming out of the new Kenwood stereo harness. I guess it didnt like being looped back on itself. Sounds great now. I will be running independant grounds to the speakers in the future however.
The hardest part of this install was mounting the radio. I made a set of "brackets" out of plumbers tape (the perforated bendable metal strapping in the plumbing section). And bolted that to the factory radio hanger after bending its mounting taps 90 degrees. I then inserted the DIN socket into the two brackets and bent out its little wing parts until it couldnt move and then slid the stereo in. Seems very stable but leaves a little gap on either side I am going to fill later.
thanks for all your help.
Glad you figured it out...enjoy the tunes.
