HELP Mounting Aftermarket Stereo (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 12, 2003
Threads
266
Messages
3,476
Location
Tacoma, WA
Hey you 24V cruiser owners, got an aftermarket (12V) stereo in your rig? HOW IS IT MOUNTED??

I just got back from the local stereo (non-chain) shop to have them look at installing my Sony CDX-M630 deck into my 86 HJ60. After a few volt tests, I left SOL. They were uncomfortable doing the install for me because everything has a 24V ground. the 12V lead isn't a problem, is getting the system isolated from the 24V ground. Now without having to find a new 12V deck, how can this be done? some one must have done this before....

I NEED MUSIC. 16hrs in a vehicle with no A/C and no radio is HELL :mad:

TIA
 
FWIW my 24v 13bt in the FJ60 runs everything off of a solarconverters 12-24 dc-dc converter. my point being that all the 12v appliances share a common ground with the 24v system. whether the solar converters does something fancy to isolate it or not is unknown but the ground wires are connected and continuous whether 12v or 24v. I've been running my 12v stereo and all internal electronics for about 4 mos now with no problems.....

personally, i'd try it with the 24v ground and a non-mission critical stereo and see what happens....

-mike
 
Hi Gen:

I assume that you have some sort of 24v-12v step-down converter or voltage equalizer (ie. Solar Converter)? If you do, then you must have already run a lead that provides 12v to some sort of fusebox or buzz bar.

Anyway, the way I have mounted all of my 12v accessories (including CD player and alarm system), is by running a Solar Converter on load balance and running a lead from the low side battery (providing 12v) to a separate fusebox inside the cab. All 12v accessories are run from that fusebox, and the ground is simply chassis ground.

It's worked for me so far. If you need a switched power source then you can use the 24v lead that goes into your cigarette lighter. I ran a 12v lead to the cigarette lighter, because I figured this would be more useful anyway. Sheldon's dad measured the resistance of the required 12v lead and doubled it with a resistor to make it compatible with a 24v supply. Hope that helps a little.
 
I have run my 12V stereos using chassis ground will no ill effect. If you are using a Solar Converter in 24V to 12V convert mode, simply ensure the ground wire of the converter is to the negative pole of the lowside battery, and the 24V wire is to the positive pole of the highside battery, then either take your 12V's right off the 12V white wire, or run the 12V white wire to a fuse strip and take your 12V needs off the fuse strip. Ground your 12V appliances to chassis or frame ground, and you will be fine.

hth's

gb
 
Last edited:
Ok, i have a solar converter but it is not installed yet, and i left it at home in VT :doh: For now I will wire it straight from the 12V battery. I was in there today with the test light and its seems to get 12V off the power feed out of the dash (dull when grounded to dash). course i don't have a volt meter so i don't know for sure...i don't know whats going on....the guy is looking into it for me, I should hear back early next week. *sigh*...
 
There should be a stock 24V to 12V converter (I believe on the left side) in the front fender skirt, accessed from the engine bay, near the firewall. Many of them have, or are failing. That may be where you are getting your voltage that is showing. Check it and see. DO NOT tap into your lowside battery for your stereo. You WILL unbalance the batteries, and start cooking the highside battery and sulphating the lowside battery. In time, when you hook up your load balancer, it will do it's job and draw both batteries down as it it tries and maintain the sulpahted one from the cooked one. Either that, or with winter coming up you will weaken your batteries, and one cold morning it will not start. Then you will be even more pissed off, having thrown away what were two good batteries.

Not the news you wanted I am sure, however save yourself a headache and take your 12V draws off a converter, or a load balancer.

gb
 
Last edited:
I definately second what Greg says. Don't tap 12v off a single battery...you'll regret it later....especially this winter...have someone send you the solarconverter....
mike
 
I use the Solar converter also, but use the factory radio harness to supply the switching current through a 24v relay, and using the 12v output of the converter as the contact power. This keeps the radio working as stock. I also have 3rd battery in a box, to have high amp accessories, that is charged by the Solar converter/charger. My 61 did not have the factory 24/12 converter for the radio as some were supposed to have.
 
As long as the body is grounded well to the frame, then yes, no problems at all.

How are you going to hook up the converter: To simply convert, or load balance? To a fuse strip?

gb
 
Last edited:
Here's what i found in my front left fender. Does it look like a factory power converter? I have my mom looking for my solar at home....
DSCF0786.JPG
 
I'd highly recommend hooking the solar converter up like this. you won't get it dumping out on you if you exceed 20A and you'll get equalization...

http://www.solarconverters.com/product_frame.html
go under the "Equalizing Battery Voltages" section and hook up as described....

-mike
 
Gehn

Your Solar Converter will have a set of instructions in the package. I will shoot you a note off line in then next week or so on the various ways to hook it up.

Yes, the picture is the factory 24V to 12V. Somewhere in the dash will be the plugin for the factory radio. Check the wires for 12V and see if it is working.

gb
 
Mike thanks for the link, my mom found the converter but can't seem to find the manual. I was able to find a PDF verison online though.

Thanks Greg! I am going to try and check the voltage (with a volt meter this time :rolleyes: ) tomorrow. I may end up plugging the stereo into that if it still works until i get my solar converter figured out, depending on how hard it will be to install.

PS - The 1HZ is running great!
 
The Solar Converter is a quick install...just 3 wires. BUT, remember to hook up (and disconnect) the three wires in the proper sequence! Otherwise you will probably blow the fuse inside the unit. Greg can correct me if I'm wrong, but in the equalize mode you will continue to get 12v for a while because you are drawing the low side battery, but the Solar Converter will not be shunting current to recharge the low side battery if the fuse is blown. If you have the series II converter, you won't know this just by glancing because the green LED will still be lit. One day, your battery will be dead and you won't be able to start your Cruiser.

If it takes too long for your converter to get to you and you are tapping off the low side battery for your stereo the whole time, you might sufficiently damage your battery to require replacement of both. You need to start out with two good batteries for the equalization to work. Remember that there's always a small drain by the car stereo in order to maintain the memory of radio channels, settings, etc. and to power the radio's clock. HTH.

<edit> Oh, I just reread your post and it looks like you're talking about trying the stock 24v-12v step down converter if it works. Sorry.
 
VTCruiser said:
I NEED MUSIC. 16hrs in a vehicle with no A/C and no radio is HELL :mad: TIA


Install a set of swampers.. that should take care of one problem :D
 
well turns out the factory converter is no good, i think. The only lead we found in the das was 24V so i'll have to wait until i get my solar installed. That should be here next week. As for teh grounding issue, i am no longer worried about grounding the deck to the dash, thanks guys....

keep an eye out for a post about solar converter installation suggestions.... :beer:
 
Im not familiar with the 24v sys but

Does the cig lighter on your truck get 12v? it seems like something must run off of 12v. I also know that auto zone has small cheap $12 thing that has a swith so you can choose 12v or 24v. or what if you had this
ps102_s.jpg


plus this
75watt_inverter_s.jpg


Im kidding dude but it would work (24v inverter=120AC+120AC to 12DC adapter), I just got my radio after 2 weeks of no tunes, so I know the feeling. just a thought alough your convert is the best option.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom