Help me understand the notion of lifting my cruiser

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I have been doing a lot of reading on the subject of lifting my cruiser and I still seem to be confused.

When one talks of lifting ones cruiser do they mean a body lift which I understand to be the process of inserting spacers between the body and where it bolts to the chassis. I understand this can be any thing up to about 50mm but cant for the life of me work out whey you would want to lift the body from the chassis as one does not gain any further ground clearance but only increases the centre of gravity.

OR

Is it the process of installing longer shocks and springs?

If it is the latter then do the longer shocks increase both up and down travel or is it only up travel which I assume is still governed by ones upper control arms and so does this mean you have to change them as well and when do you need to have straps installed?

Does one need to change both shocks and springs if raising my car 1.5” or 2.5” or are the springs all a constant length but differ in load rating and spring rate or is the rate the spring rebounds governed by the shock you install?

Lastly when one talks about raising ones car 1.5” or 2.5” from what height are we measuring? All the questions are in relation to my stock standard 2003 100 series still with automatic height control. Is the distance I raise my car measured from when the car is in low or normal or high because if I was to raise my car 2.5” from the high setting I may need a stepladder to get in.

Is it only possible to raise ones car either 1.5” or 2.5” or could I raise it 2” if I wanted and at what point do I need to start worrying about diff drops and increased wear on my CV joints as well as caster correction bushes.

At what stage do I need to think about changing my front torsion bars or are they not related to the suspension but rather the weight of the vehicle?

Sorry for all the questions but it would give me a good idea of how it all works.
 
Body lift is to increase tire clearance only, in order to fit bigger tires without rubbing at full lock, droop or compression.
 
There is a big defference between BL and lift kit.

BL only raises the body for larger tires. same springs, bars and shocks. This will leave you with the same stock ride though.

Lift= new T bars shocks and springs. or you could just do T bars and springs for $500 and have no down travel in the front. this is cuz yo lifted the front A arms and there is no more room to go up. Up travel is increased and down travel decreased.
 
There is a big defference between BL and lift kit.

BL only raises the body for larger tires. same springs, bars and shocks. This will leave you with the same stock ride though.

Lift= new T bars shocks and springs. or you could just do T bars and springs for $500 and have no down travel in the front. this is cuz yo lifted the front A arms and there is no more room to go up. Up travel is increased and down travel decreased.


To clarify: You don't need different torsion bars to change the front suspension height...you just need to adjust the pre-load, which is easily adjusted on our 100-Series trucks to alter the front ride height.

Down travel is a function of the front lift height. Just because you change torsion bars doesn't necessarily mean you will "have no down travel in front".
 
Spresso put it into better words ( i hate typing). Spresso check my post and see if you can help me too.
 
Cheap lift is the way I am going for now, spacers on top of the rear springs and reindex the torsion bars...after I fix the cv axel. I have a call into someone at Bilstein to see if any of the 5100 or higher series will work on the Cruiser. I plan on going with new springs and torsion bars but want better quality shocks than come with the two different available kits but I just dont want to pay close to $300 for each one of them.
 

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