Help me decide (1 Viewer)

Joined
Oct 16, 2007
Messages
208
Location
Topton Pa
Between 3 tires. I'm 99% sure I'm going w/ 285/75R16 sizing (unless someone talks me into 255/85R16). The truck is a 93 LC, no lift. Regarding useage, realistically, 80% road/gravel 20% off road (no rock crawling or deep mud). I wish it was more like 40% road and 60% off road BUT ya know....:rolleyes:

Whadya say people?!

Cooper (Telestar) Trailcutter R/T
http://simpletire.com/telstar-lt285-75r16-1251536-tires $193 installed @ local shop (ran these on my 94 4rnr and liked them)

Goodyear Duratrac
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...idewall=Blackwall&partnum=875PR6WDT&tab=Sizes $239 installed at local shop

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...6GEOMTPL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes $unknown via local shop.
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
38
I have been looking to replace mine as well and have done a lot of reading. Some thoughts -

Do you want a D or an E load range tire?
Do you want a 2 ply or a 3 ply side wall? (comfort v durability)
What level of sipping is important to you based on where you live and drive?
Compare the tire heights by looking at the revs / mile

Based on what you have identified, the DTs seem to have near universal positive reviews. I like the block spacing and the sipping. They are a 2 ply sidewall - and I am willing to bet all 3 that you have identified are as well. You might want to research the noise level associated with the DTs based on what is acceptable to you, but from what I have read, and for me - there would be no question - between the three identified choices, I would take the DTs.

In the same category, you might want to look at the Toyo AT2s - they have a little less sipping, and the block spacing is a little tighter, but they have a 50k mile warranty, and little higher speed rating (R instead of P for the DTs), both the DTs and the AT2s are 10 ply E rated tires with 2 ply sidewalls, both weigh in at @ 54# per corner.

As for 255/85/16s - unless you want an MT (which from what I have read is not so much for the vast majority of uses) you are looking at a Toyo M55. M55s are going to be $300 (or slightly more) per corner mounted and installed. They are a 10 ply E rated, 3 ply sidewall tire that weighs in @ 56#. They are going to be slightly taller than any 285/75 as well.

For me it is down to the M55 / DTs / AT2s. The DTs look like the best all around solution but they do not come with a milage warranty (but most everyone seems to be getting 30k+ with some reporting closing to 50k). The AT2s are likely the most quite and would likely yield the most miles. Of the 3 they are probably the more mild off road tire. The M55s are expensive brutes with a stiff sidewall and a reputation for great traction in most any condition (except deep sticky mud) and long life.

Good luck
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
38
One other thing that I have been mulling around - weight. I have been reading elsewhere about trying to figure out how much rotating weight zaps your horsepower. Sounds like it isn't a linear formula, but it also sounds like it is reasonable (conservative estimate) to say that 1# of rotating weight at the furthest point away from center is worth @ 0.75 HP.

Stock MY2k rig - 230 HP (at the crank I would assume)

OEM tire weight @ 39# (Michelin LTX M/S2)

Roughly speaking a 54# DT in 285/75/16 means a total additional rotating weight of 60#s. 60#* 0.75HP / 230HP = 19.5% more HP to accomplish the same task as with the lesser weight tire. Same / same on the binders.

Point being I see lots of discussion on tire construction, tread design, width and aspect ratio, but not a lot on weight. Part of getting the 'best' tire is about figuring out what tire will do all that you want it to do, and weigh less than any other option.



Good luck
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 16, 2007
Messages
208
Location
Topton Pa
Weight is something I've vaguely thought about but haven't seriously given it much thought. I've taken it into consideration when picking tires for my BMW but not for a truck. Thanks for making it more difficult ;)
 
Joined
Aug 15, 2012
Messages
133
Location
Bloomington, IL
Another vote for Duratracs! Had them in 285s and now have them in 315s. Aggressive, quiet, and the best I've seen for wet roads or snow and ice.
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2013
Messages
1,371
Location
Williston, ND
Duratracs


Have them on both of my rigs...

image-416999048.jpg


image-1284248007.jpg
 
Joined
May 15, 2005
Messages
8,961
Location
Ladysmith
One other thing that I have been mulling around - weight. I have been reading elsewhere about trying to figure out how much rotating weight zaps your horsepower. Sounds like it isn't a linear formula, but it also sounds like it is reasonable (conservative estimate) to say that 1# of rotating weight at the furthest point away from center is worth @ 0.75 HP.

Stock MY2k rig - 230 HP (at the crank I would assume)

OEM tire weight @ 39# (Michelin LTX M/S2)

Roughly speaking a 54# DT in 285/75/16 means a total additional rotating weight of 60#s. 60#* 0.75HP / 230HP = 19.5% more HP to accomplish the same task as with the lesser weight tire. Same / same on the binders.

Point being I see lots of discussion on tire construction, tread design, width and aspect ratio, but not a lot on weight. Part of getting the 'best' tire is about figuring out what tire will do all that you want it to do, and weigh less than any other option.




Good luck


Mr GJ - I'm impressed with your information. I run 285/75R17 Toyo MT's on my 12HT 60 series. They are heavy, and do take away HP to roll. I have to drive very conservatively to get the mileage that I do. If you got this information from somewhere please post it up. In hindsight, I would look at a D rated tire, and save about 30 lbs of unsprung weight per tire. Going to an E rated tire is a sacrifice, but I do have nasty blast rock logging roads and a heavy diesel. J
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom