I want to rebuild this carb (yeah, I know a lot of you will suggest tossing it in the trash and replacing with a stock “clone”), but don’t know which Weber it is. Can any of you tell from these photos?
Help identifying this Weber
- Thread starter Dunham
- Start date
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They are commonly stamped on the carb base, right above the adapter plate for the intake manifold. Look immediately under the left bolt (in your image) of the throttle-cable mounting bracket. However, because the water choke and electric choke bases are often interchangeable, it could be stamped one, but be the other; I have a DGEV that is stamped 'DGAV.' Yours is likely a 32/36 DGEV (electric choke) which is consistent with the smallest diameter of the throttle bores: 27-secondary, 26-primary.
Before you order a rebuild kit, you may want to pop off the air horn and check the float and fuel filter first. The rebuild kit's price is a good chunk of a new carb; 58 dollars for the kit, and about 200 for the carb.
Before you order a rebuild kit, you may want to pop off the air horn and check the float and fuel filter first. The rebuild kit's price is a good chunk of a new carb; 58 dollars for the kit, and about 200 for the carb.
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Weber 32 / 36 DGEV stamp
- Thread starter
- #4
That’s awesome! I really would have never found mine without the help. I gave a wire going to the choke (electric choke obviously) but my model is dgav not dgev. Does the rebuild kit/gasket set care if carb is electric or manual choke?
- Thread starter
- #5
Here’s mine
The rebuild kit from a popular outfitter collectively sells a rebuild kit for the DGV, DGEV, and DGAV. The A in DGAV is water-choke; the E in DGEV is electric choke. My DGEV has a DGAV stamp-no biggie. The DGV is manual choke.
If your air horn gasket is making disassembly a challenge, be sure to lift the air horn straight up to avoid bending the float against the side of the bowl. Because the Weber has no glass for the bowl, you might want to get a sense of fuel level to ensure that your carb and fuel pump are properly working together.
How does your PCV system look?
If your air horn gasket is making disassembly a challenge, be sure to lift the air horn straight up to avoid bending the float against the side of the bowl. Because the Weber has no glass for the bowl, you might want to get a sense of fuel level to ensure that your carb and fuel pump are properly working together.
How does your PCV system look?
- Thread starter
- #7
nightmarish. it consists of a rotting, crushed hose shoved into the valve cover. then is bent over double (in two places), and then is cracked where it would slip onto the aircleaner.
Hello from Florida, hope you get it rebuilt Dunham. I will double check to see exactly which one I have; I'm pretty sure it's the 38 DGES synchronous series.
I've been having trouble starting at cold start...once started and warmed it does great (even after off for half a day or so.) Only at cold start if not running for a few days. I've been getting by with starting fluid spray at cold start up (but I know that's not really good for a motor long-term.) Now I'm wondering what the best set up is for that carb. on an F-motor FJ-40. I will contact the Weber carb site for the basic set up data on that. But, I sure would like to know what good setting are for the various jets.
I may need to install an electrical fuel pump. I just installed an after market gas tank (polyethylene) but this tank has a pick up line from up top. My stock tank had it out from side. Now I am wondering if my mechanical fuel pump will draw enough gas up. I will test that mechanical pump once I get the cruiser going. I heard that once an electric fuel pump is installed the fuel pressure may need to be adjusted. Is there a "best" place to install a fuel pressure gage?
I've been having trouble starting at cold start...once started and warmed it does great (even after off for half a day or so.) Only at cold start if not running for a few days. I've been getting by with starting fluid spray at cold start up (but I know that's not really good for a motor long-term.) Now I'm wondering what the best set up is for that carb. on an F-motor FJ-40. I will contact the Weber carb site for the basic set up data on that. But, I sure would like to know what good setting are for the various jets.
I may need to install an electrical fuel pump. I just installed an after market gas tank (polyethylene) but this tank has a pick up line from up top. My stock tank had it out from side. Now I am wondering if my mechanical fuel pump will draw enough gas up. I will test that mechanical pump once I get the cruiser going. I heard that once an electric fuel pump is installed the fuel pressure may need to be adjusted. Is there a "best" place to install a fuel pressure gage?
- Thread starter
- #9
I thought this thread had died, but I guess not. Here’s an update. I determined that my carb was indeed a 32/36 DGEV. Got a semi complete kit(no carb filter screen? No vacuum diaphragm). After seeing the excessive residue from evaporated fuel in the bowl and clinging to the filter screen, I avoided using the fuel tank.
I made a makeshift tank from a small fuel can. Connected it to a generic filter, then fuel pump. At the business end of the pump I connected new fuel line dumping into a clean, clear container. Turned the motor and nothing came out. Disconnected the fuel pump(filter still filtering from can), elevated can a bit, and hooked it straight to carb. Turned it over and got nothing.
So we took the fuel pump apart. No wonder it didn’t work. Insides are so much worse than the carb. Rubber looks/ feels really good, so just going to do a cleaning/reassembly and test again.
I made a makeshift tank from a small fuel can. Connected it to a generic filter, then fuel pump. At the business end of the pump I connected new fuel line dumping into a clean, clear container. Turned the motor and nothing came out. Disconnected the fuel pump(filter still filtering from can), elevated can a bit, and hooked it straight to carb. Turned it over and got nothing.
So we took the fuel pump apart. No wonder it didn’t work. Insides are so much worse than the carb. Rubber looks/ feels really good, so just going to do a cleaning/reassembly and test again.
I had a 34/34 progressive weber for ten years, looks quite similar to your picture, it ran ok but did not give much power at the top end. I replaced it with one (what you call a stock clone) from Trollhole it ran like crap, then I found an OEM Aisan and it runs great, very good power curve. I'm sold on using Aisan carbs on FJ40s.
- Thread starter
- #11
So, after cleaning the fuel pump (and teaching my son how to use a tap and die set-one of the brass fittingings broke and we couldn’t extract the remains) we fired her up. Misfiring a bit, but more disconcerting was what appeared to be fuel exiting the carb out the top. Neighbor thinks too much in the bowl. Any thoughts?
- Thread starter
- #12
To clarify, air/fuel vapor exiting carb through choke plates
Thru the air horn, like above the air corrector jets, or do you mean choke butterflies? Could you describe it a bit more?
Are you using the Cruiser fuel pump?
Are you using the Cruiser fuel pump?
- Thread starter
- #14
using the original mechanical fuel pump. fuel vapor seemed to be exiting through the opened choke butterflies. will have to fire it up again and pay closer attention.
