Headlight wiring help (H4 plug for relay to h13 bulb) (2 Viewers)

[montegofd3s]

Hey mud,

Hoping someone can help me answer this question... I received my new projector installed headlights, and the relay harness they supplied has a H4(?) plug on the trigger end (where it should plug into the existing bulb plug). I don't mind depinning and changing plugs, but I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for this morimoto motocontol relay (besides the supplied one that says "connect to existing headlight socket). As you can see in the picture, there are 3 wires...brown, white and blue. Obviously the stock headlights only have 2 wires at the bulb plug...red and black. Does anyone have any experience with which way the relay wires should be run to the existing bulb wiring?

Thanks in advance, and I will be sure to post pictures and a review after everything is together.

 

[montegofd3s]

Quick update, I did find a diagram that details this harness a little better. It seems bi-xenon have a high and low beam in the same projector? It would seem to me that I would need to run a trigger wire from the high beams to the "blue" wire on this harness if I wanted the high beams in the projector to come on with the regular high beams. I am keeping the normal 9005 high beams. Can anyone confirm/expand on this?

Thanks again everyone.

 

[Cruisin911]

That's what makes them bi-xenon is the shutter function. Its looking for the trigger as you identified in the second schematic. Looks like you're just adding the trigger for high beam on the shutter and running everything off of the battery for power. I'd be curious as to your new setup. Why not just use stock ballasts and wiring? You can still wire the trigger off of the high beam and save some time, money, and simplicity. I am assuming you're trying to put in 13+ headlights or did you get an original 2008-2011 set that you had modified for projectors?

 

[CharlieS]

Edited for clarity:

Seems like it would be the trigger side harness for ground, (low beam) bulb power, and (high beam) solenoid power.

If you map those to the ground, low beam and high beam on your 200 vehicle side light harness, it should work for you.

As I recall the shutter is a piece of metal that cuts off part of the beam (low beam) and flips up for the bright light (high beam).

 

[montegofd3s]

That's what makes them bi-xenon is the shutter function. Its looking for the trigger as you identified in the second schematic. Looks like you're just adding the trigger for high beam on the shutter and running everything off of the battery for power. I'd be curious as to your new setup. Why not just use stock ballasts and wiring? You can still wire the trigger off of the high beam and save some time, money, and simplicity. I am assuming you're trying to put in 13+ headlights or did you get an original 2008-2011 set that you had modified for projectors?

Hey, the company modified a new set of 2008 headlights. Honestly, I didn't buy these. The guy I bought the truck from had already ordered them when I bought the truck, but they hadn't been delivered yet. I originally planned on selling them, but when they finally made it to me I thought they looked really good.

 

[montegofd3s]

Seems like it would be ground, bulb power, and shutter solenoid power. As I recall the shutter is a piece of metal that cuts off part of the beam (low beam) and flips up for the bright light (high beam).

That's what I am thinking also. Since I am keeping the stock high beams, I would send that signal by tapping the positive side of the high beams bulb wire, essentially using that as the source that flips up the shield. Is that sort of what you are implying? Thanks.

 

[CharlieS]

I happen to have some in the shop from an old project that I ended up using a newer version of the Morimotos. I think what you might have is kind of the trigger side, where you have a ground, a + for the low beam and a + for the high beam. The stock harness acts as the trigger wire for the Morimoto relay box. There are output leads from the relay box to the high and low circuits on the bi-xenon units. One for low, and one for high beams. The low beam powers the bulb, and the high beam triggers the shutter to open.

Mine look like this - you can see a blade like piece of metal in the middle attached to the solenoid, that is the shutter:

 

[montegofd3s]

Update.. so headlights are in. Wired off existing low beam plug, and tapped the high beam positive as the trigger for the bi-xenon cutoff shields (as mentioned above). I figured the shields would be up anytime the headlights were off because the daytime running lights are through the high beams. That wasn't a big deal because I didn't think the daytime running lights had power when the low beams turned on. It seems my assumption was incorrect. The high beam positive signal seems constant so the bi-xenon shields are always up. Maybe the high beams are triggered by the negative wire? Any who, lights look great, I will just have more to play with before they are functioning properly.

May try to plastidip the chrome on the outside of the grille to a body color match. We will see.

 

[CharlieS]

At least on my test morimotos, the rest position of the bi-xenon is shield down. The shield is only lifted (solenoid activated, aka high beam) only when 12v+ is applied.

I wonder, if as you say, it is ground switched, if you need a relay in the middle to trigger off the ground wire in the highbeam harness. This was definitely not the case in the 100 series that I installed bi-xenons in...

 

[Cruisin911]

The high beam positive signal seems constant so the bi-xenon shields are always up.

Totally forgot about that. Go into the vehicle settings on the nav menu and turn off the daytime running lights. Should solve that problem.

 

[montegofd3s]

Totally forgot about that. Go into the vehicle settings on the nav menu and turn off the daytime running lights. Should solve that problem.

Edit: I have a 2008 so I can't do it though the nev screen, but I do have a techstream cable on order. Thanks for that suggestion, it will save me a few headaches.

 

[Cruisin911]

Then I'd just disconnect the trigger until you get it sorted. It'll solve the cutoff issue. Shutter remains engaged when unpowered.

 

[CharlieS]

If the high beams are ground triggered, you could use the high beam ground circuit to trigger a simple relay that energizes your high beam trigger wire. You can test your ground switching theory with a multimeter. It'd only take a few minutes to wire up a relay.

Good writeup on wiring ground triggered circuits here: http://www.ironman4x4.com/system/re...X2xpZ2h0c19pbS5wZGYiXV0/driving_lights_im.pdf

 

[montegofd3s]

Then I'd just disconnect the trigger until you get it sorted. It'll solve the cutoff issue. Shutter remains engaged when unpowered.

Yeah, that is how I have it now. I'm just trying to come up with a future game plan.