When I'm doing this I tend to cover the front cover/timing chain area with a cloth of plastic bag, because a variety of things like to fall in there.
Headgasket project about to launch
- Thread starter LoneRanger
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
throttle body successfully removed. Just need to remember where all those hoses and plugs go when I put I back : 0
- Thread starter
- #23
First small snag
everthing has gone smoothly so far. No broken or stripped bolts.
This evening I removed all the intake manifold bolts. There are 8, right?
The manual says to rock the manifold up and down to break the seal. I have done this a bunch and it is stuck like its ONE with the head.
Any suggestions on breaking the seal?
TIA
everthing has gone smoothly so far. No broken or stripped bolts.
This evening I removed all the intake manifold bolts. There are 8, right?
The manual says to rock the manifold up and down to break the seal. I have done this a bunch and it is stuck like its ONE with the head.
Any suggestions on breaking the seal?
TIA
There is an allen bolt as well. It is closer to the front of the intake and hard to find. I think it is an 8mm head.
- Thread starter
- #25
I did find a 9th bolt below the Tstat housing but it was not an allen bolt. Manifold still quite stuck.
There are 10 bolts. One is a long socket head cap screw, should be about 3" long, I believe it is just forward of the thermostat.
This is why it's sooo much easier if you just pull the harness out of the firewall, pull the intake with the head. Once it's on the bench, then it's much easier to deal with all the intake and wiring. I actually have a jig I made that clamps into a Workmate that I can drop the head on, with both manifolds still installed. I've used that thing many times, works so nice.
This is why it's sooo much easier if you just pull the harness out of the firewall, pull the intake with the head. Once it's on the bench, then it's much easier to deal with all the intake and wiring. I actually have a jig I made that clamps into a Workmate that I can drop the head on, with both manifolds still installed. I've used that thing many times, works so nice.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #27
There are 10 bolts. One is a long socket head cap screw, should be about 3" long, I believe it is just forward of the thermostat.
This is why it's sooo much easier if you just pull the harness out of the firewall, pull the intake with the head. Once it's on the bench, then it's much easier to deal with all the intake and wiring. I actually have a jig I made that clamps into a Workmate that I can drop the head on, with both manifolds still installed. I've used that thing many times, works so nice.
thanks. thats a nice set up. I am nearly to the point of pulling the head to get a better view. A little confused. I have pulled 9 bolts, all 1". I don't see any more near the tstat. Any chance of getting a clear photo of that 3" bolt and where it goes?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #30
Manifold free.
It took me about 24 hours to find that thing the first time I did it. Super frustrating. Nice jig that KLF has. I will keep that for future reference.
- Thread starter
- #32
This afternoon I turned all the head bolts except #8 which is brutally stuck. Not wanting to force it, I am considering loosening all the rest in hopes of easing the pressure on #8. I have only turned the other a notch or so but I know they will keep turning with ease.
Suggestions?
Suggestions?
Last edited:
Loosening all the other bolts will likely INCREASE the tension on the remaining bolt. Plus, you want to loosen them evenly, otherwise you risk warping the head. Same thing when you tighten them.
Did you try an impact gun? Unfortunately there's no way to get any type of solvent or thread loosening fluid in there. It's always the ones that are between the exhaust ports, then get baked in.
Did you try an impact gun? Unfortunately there's no way to get any type of solvent or thread loosening fluid in there. It's always the ones that are between the exhaust ports, then get baked in.
- Thread starter
- #34
Some heat might help, although you really can't put a lot on it or it will damage the head.
BTW, the impact gun is not so much about leverage/torque, it's more about lots of small hits on it to induce vibration to break it loose. It's not the threads that are stuck in the block, it's the section just below the head that gets all cooked with burnt oil and carbon. If you hit it with a big wrench and one big tug, it will likely snap the head off as head bolts are very brittle.
BTW, the impact gun is not so much about leverage/torque, it's more about lots of small hits on it to induce vibration to break it loose. It's not the threads that are stuck in the block, it's the section just below the head that gets all cooked with burnt oil and carbon. If you hit it with a big wrench and one big tug, it will likely snap the head off as head bolts are very brittle.
Do you have the FSM? It is very useful for the headbolt loosening and tightening sequence. It also has the 8mm cap screw location and various other pieces of info. I did not get mine until after the first time I took the head off, so I spent a lot of extra time "researching". I use the old school paper version, but there should be links on here to an electronic one. Definitely try an impact over brute force, as it will be hell if you break the head bolt off.
- Thread starter
- #38
Head is off. The bolt on the left is the one which was badly stuck. It took five or 6 hits of over 30 seconds with am impact wrench to get it free. Note how it is indented on one side. Burned away with corrosion from hot exhaust gases.
