Header Wrap (1 Viewer)

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(1) Could be that Downey Headers tolerated being wrapped because they are 14 gauge, most are only 16 gauge or less. Yes, a sheet metal heat shield is a far better choice.
(2) Normally when Headers crack all around the collector it is because the exhaust system was picked up/lifted up to the rear exhaust hanger, essentially using the long exhaust pipe as a leverage bar to lift the engine weight off of the front motor mounts- - -happens all the time.
 
(1) Could be that Downey Headers tolerated being wrapped because they are 14 gauge, most are only 16 gauge or less. Yes, a sheet metal heat shield is a far better choice.
(2) Normally when Headers crack all around the collector it is because the exhaust system was picked up/lifted up to the rear exhaust hanger, essentially using the long exhaust pipe as a leverage bar to lift the engine weight off of the front motor mounts- - -happens all the time.

I have no doubt your right bout how the tube got broke. Hangers were always getting broke, then it'd get wired up it was a endless cycle. Just the reason I pulled them off and unwrapped it. But when I saw what they looked like under that wrap surprised me.
 
There are a number of heat shield/reflective products available from a variety of race suppliers that will make a significant difference. We use combination of wrapped headers and reflective product and it makes a big difference in the race car.
 
@Mace would love to see how you mounted this. It is shocking how much heat is generated from the exhaust and transferred up through the floor board. Thanks!

Honestly, it's bolted to the body (with an air gap). Simple and easy.
 
Honestly, it's bolted to the body (with an air gap). Simple and easy.

Okay I may have to give this a shot. Did you shape it at all? Or is it just flat like it comes? Might be tough shaping it since it is two layers.

Thanks for sharing the "shield"... ;)
 
Mine is flat no shaping necessary
 
I also used to melt stuff lying on the floor of my 40. My cure was home made sheet metal shields with about an inch air gap between them and the floor, underneath of course. For the area behind the drivers seat the gap was far less and I used the tub flashing as mounting flanges. Headers were SBC block huggers into a single 2 1/4" pipe that ran down under the driver's side.

(me thinks some folks don't know who Jim [Downey] really is)
 
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Some do ;)
 
Also, I was told by a good friend years ago to always put a flexible joint after the collector.
Like this
ss%20flex.jpg
 

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