- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
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The main charge power from the alternator goes to the right hand battery if I'm remembering things correctly.
You should do a few things: 1) the batteries need to be the same size, make, vintage etc. You cannot successfully, in the long term, live with mixed battery types. 2) if you have the Japanese batteries in there still, do yourself a favour and replace them immediately. 3) when replacing the Japanese batteries, see 1) above. 4) check your fusible links and the integrity of your battery connections, starter connections, and the changeover solenoid connections.
You then need to determine if you have a parasitic draw - best done after the batteries have been replaced. If you have a low amps probe, it may give you the simplest solution for finding what the draw is.
Changing to a 12V starter is not especially difficult, and I did one just a few days ago. There is a lot more to the 24V/12V switchover than just the one solenoid. There is also a control box inside the vehicle that coordinates the changeover with other systems in the vehicle to prevent 24V from getting to the rest of the system. I have not heard of a problem (yet) with this control unit, but it is possible. I doubt the control box is the source of any draw.
A common source of trouble in the longer term could the alternator regulator or diodes. If you're getting voltage over about 14.5V then I would look at the regulator or alternator/battery connections. If you're getting a parasitic draw, or poor charging, I would look at the diodes. If you have aftermarket wiring in the vehicle - eg: trailer wiring or a stereo wiring - we find about 90% of our problems right there. A shop with a good alternator tester can tell you if the diodes are going or are gone.
While you're in there, you should consider changing your starter contacts and the solenoid plunger. It's a common source of click, click, click, crank... followed by a slow decline in to nothingness from the starter motor. These parts are readily available and not too hard to change yourself.
~John
You should do a few things: 1) the batteries need to be the same size, make, vintage etc. You cannot successfully, in the long term, live with mixed battery types. 2) if you have the Japanese batteries in there still, do yourself a favour and replace them immediately. 3) when replacing the Japanese batteries, see 1) above. 4) check your fusible links and the integrity of your battery connections, starter connections, and the changeover solenoid connections.
You then need to determine if you have a parasitic draw - best done after the batteries have been replaced. If you have a low amps probe, it may give you the simplest solution for finding what the draw is.
Changing to a 12V starter is not especially difficult, and I did one just a few days ago. There is a lot more to the 24V/12V switchover than just the one solenoid. There is also a control box inside the vehicle that coordinates the changeover with other systems in the vehicle to prevent 24V from getting to the rest of the system. I have not heard of a problem (yet) with this control unit, but it is possible. I doubt the control box is the source of any draw.
A common source of trouble in the longer term could the alternator regulator or diodes. If you're getting voltage over about 14.5V then I would look at the regulator or alternator/battery connections. If you're getting a parasitic draw, or poor charging, I would look at the diodes. If you have aftermarket wiring in the vehicle - eg: trailer wiring or a stereo wiring - we find about 90% of our problems right there. A shop with a good alternator tester can tell you if the diodes are going or are gone.
While you're in there, you should consider changing your starter contacts and the solenoid plunger. It's a common source of click, click, click, crank... followed by a slow decline in to nothingness from the starter motor. These parts are readily available and not too hard to change yourself.
~John
