Harrop Stage 1- installation process/problems (1 Viewer)

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Hello,
This is fairly real time so I'll update as things progress. I received my Harrop Stage 1 kit earlier this week and started the installation on Weds night. My intention was to start with the upgraded fuel pump, the messiest part of the installation.

The Deatschwerks pump provided with the Harrop kit did not fit in the Land Cruiser pump housing. Unfortunately for me there was no way to know this prior to dropping the tank. The specific issue with the pump (which should fit) it that it was crimped with the ends incorrectly clocked so that it was impossible to align the connector cutout and the filter sock to allow the housing to be assembled.



I contacted Harrop, and they agreed from my photos that the DW pump was defective. They asked me to pay for a replacement pump because they were concerned that I wouldn't ship back the defective pump. This was a WTF moment for me, and I told them they could ship me a conforming pump, or expect the entire kit to be shipped back to them. So fair enough they shipped me another pump. Which also didn't fit. It was closer to conforming than the first pump, but still clocked enough so that the filter sock and connector opening would not align.

Here's the second DW pump showing the connector misaligned when the sock is aligned at the base.


I contacted Harrop again this morning, they are surprised to have a second pump also out of spec, and told me they have only heard of one similar issue previously. They are having DW overnight me a pump. Naturally having dropped the tank twice now I am pretty unimpressed with the situation.

I know some others on the forum have installed, or are in the process of installing these systems. Has anyone else had this issue with the pump?

Thanks,
Ken
 
I just got my kit yesterday. Is this identifiable prior to comparison with oe pump assembly? Will pics of my new pump tell if it has same issue? I bought it via ProSpeed in Houston and they give me tech support. They do lots of Tundras but have done only one 570. I can zip by there and show them this thread to see if they can offer suggestions.
 
Sucks. It is possible to get to the pump from under the middle row seats, but you have to modify the sheet metal a small bit to fit it thru the access hole. Dropping the tank probably easier if you have the tooling and setup to do that. I don’t envy you having to undo that vent clamp multiple times. What a pain.
 
I just got my kit yesterday. Is this identifiable prior to comparison with oe pump assembly? Will pics of my new pump tell if it has same issue? I bought it via ProSpeed in Houston and they give me tech support. They do lots of Tundras but have done only one 570. I can zip by there and show them this thread to see if they can offer suggestions.
Hi,
It can be checked by carefully inspecting the pump- now that I know what I’m looking at. The inlet and outlet ports on the pump needed to be oriented exactly in line with each other. I’d estimate that any more than 2-3 degrees of misalignment will prevent fitment. The first pump I received was about 15-20 degrees misaligned, the second about 8 degrees off.

Best,
Ken
 
Thanks for the reply. Looking at your extended pictures I now see exactly what to look for. I'll check mine today and will let you know if it is clocked correctly. I am waiting on my LRA 12.5 gallon aux tank to arrive before doing the install so your post is timely. I'll have a chance to get a replacement pump if mine is not correct. I wonder where the pumps are manufactured? Deatschwerks sounds obviously German and they are know for precision and quality control, excepting BMW and MB finished products :rofl:
They must have outsourced the pumps to a government owned plant in Laos under contract.
 
Thanks for the reply. Looking at your extended pictures I now see exactly what to look for. I'll check mine today and will let you know if it is clocked correctly. I am waiting on my LRA 12.5 gallon aux tank to arrive before doing the install so your post is timely. I'll have a chance to get a replacement pump if mine is not correct. I wonder where the pumps are manufactured? Deatschwerks sounds obviously German and they are know for precision and quality control, excepting BMW and MB finished products :rofl:
They must have outsourced the pumps to a government owned plant in Laos under contract.
They are located in Oklahoma... the owner's name is David Deatsch. One of his ancestors must have been "particularly" creative in finding a surname. 🤪
 
Oklahoma is good. That means I won't have to wait for one to come from Oz if mine is clocked wrong.
 
I forgot to post these pics of my fuel pump which is apparently clocked correctly. I am going to tackle dropping the main tank as my first step, to install this pump. My 12.5 LRA tank is supposed to arrive at their Seattle warehouse within a week. Then probably a week to Texas. I'd like to do the fill neck and install of the aux tank in conguntion with the new pump in the main tank. Then SC and Bull Bar followed by the Slee Formed sliders. Got a solid 2 weeks of work and probably several cases of Micro brews.
2021-11-10 12.48.59.jpg
2021-11-10 12.48.15.jpg
 
Work has gotten in the way of my install, multiple trips to the mid west plus a bachelor party trip to Thermal CA. Hope to get stuck back in on Friday/Saturday, driving with the blower installed on Sunday. Also note that the Harrop install procedures don’t give torque specs. I have been mining those from the MM.
 
Finally back into this project, hoping to wrap it up by tomorrow midday. I have received a new pump and it looks- LOOKS- to be better aligned. I'll be installing later today.

Another challenge- the Harrop installation instructions are pretty light on important details, like bolt torque specs. Fortunately the Magnusson Tundra installation instructions cover most of the same fasteners and are incredibly detailed- so I'll be referring to both as I go along, mostly so I don't need to dig up bolt torque specs from the Toyota MM.
 
Nice work! How hard was the intercooler part? I emailed Harrop to see if my Safari snorkel flows sufficiently to feed the supercharged 5.7. I also asked about the torque specs. Looking for a reply Monday.
 
Years ago I printed out a generic bolt torque spec and taped it to the inside lid of one of my toolboxes. Isn't the generic spec good for when you don't have one in the manufacturer's instructions?
 
Nice work! How hard was the intercooler part? I emailed Harrop to see if my Safari snorkel flows sufficiently to feed the supercharged 5.7. I also asked about the torque specs. Looking for a reply Monday.
Intercooler was tough for me because I have some stuff installed behind the grill. But otherwise straightforward. Note that the return line into the intercooler radiator (LHS) was kinking when I followed the Harrop instructions, so I bought a 3/4" (19mm) elbow and splice to make that corner. Also noted that the kit was short a few hose clamps as it arrived, the bracket for the intercooler pump was pretty agricultural, the oil cooler hose from the valley needed trimming to avoid kinking, as did the thermostat housing to crossover pipe. I lifted the blower in myself, which was not easy, so find a friend....
 
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The old style Safari Snorkel is a restriction to the supercharged 3UR-FE. The newer ArMax may flow enough. The stock airflow meter diameter in the airbox may be a restriction, the original TRD kit has a massive airflow meter. The stock throttle body also creates a little restriction, too.
 
Years ago I printed out a generic bolt torque spec and taped it to the inside lid of one of my toolboxes. Isn't the generic spec good for when you don't have one in the manufacturer's instructions?
We found some huge discrepancies between the generic numbers listed by Toyota and their much lower (by size/pitch) published numbers for some of the brake hardware. Until that point I’d agree with you, but something is getting out of whack with Toyota’s specs somewhere.
 
We found some huge discrepancies between the generic numbers listed by Toyota and their much lower (by size/pitch) published numbers for some of the brake hardware. Until that point I’d agree with you, but something is getting out of whack with Toyota’s specs somewhere.
Good to know! Thank you.
 

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