I know there's a few good posts about dashcam hardwiring but I'm not finding exact answer so hopefully someone can help. Looking for non safety related fuses (10-30amp) in the driver side fuse box one that is constant and one that is switched. I don't have a tool handy so hopefully someone can help out. Thanks!
Hardwire Dashcam
- Thread starter lcjockey
- Start date
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there is also switched power at the rear view mirror itself FYI
Click on the build link in my signature - one of the first few pages should contain photos of the fuse box and switched fuse circuit that I used for the same purpose.
This is what I run for a clean install -https://dongar.tech/
Add a fuse to the driver side fuse box.
There are USB power supplies that can detect 12V voltage level to switch on/off with the car engine or on constantly.
When you run the wire over the a-pillar, depending on how you run it, it's important to go under the airbag rather than over.
There are USB power supplies that can detect 12V voltage level to switch on/off with the car engine or on constantly.
When you run the wire over the a-pillar, depending on how you run it, it's important to go under the airbag rather than over.
- Thread starter
- #6
The cam needs both constant and switched to turn on if vehicle is hit while away. Is rearview mirror capable of handling this? Thanks
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks! Do you know which pin it is for 17’ 200? Do you know if rear view mirror has constant so cam can turn on when vehicle not powered up? Thanks
elcie200
SILVER Star
I used an add-a-fuse to power my dashcam from the passenger side fusebox (rearview mirror area, across headliner, down passenger side a-pillar). IIRC fuse 8 (7,5A TOW BK / UP – Towing) and 12 (20A SEAT-HTR – Heated seat) in the diagram here: Fuse box diagram Toyota Land Cruiser 200 and relay with assignment and location - https://fuseandrelay.com/toyota/land-cruiser-200.html#Passenger_side_box
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kcjaz
SILVER Star
Stupid question here: "Switched" just means a circuit that is only on with ignition on, right?
- Thread starter
- #10
Not stupid but yes meaning only comes on when vehicle powered up. I’ve seen other terms such as Bat+ so maybe I’m using term wrong. The hardwire kit from Miofive has 3 cables 1.ground 2. Constant always on 3. Switched so I need access to those 2 fuses between 10-30amp and a screw to ground.
- Thread starter
- #11
Not stupid but yes meaning only comes on when vehicle powered up. I’ve seen other terms such as Bat+ so maybe I’m using term wrong. The hardwire kit from Miofive has 3 cables 1.ground 2. Constant always on 3. Switched so I need access to those 2 fuses between 10-30amp and a screw to groun
- Thread starter
- #12
Yes the Miofive kit is basically an add a fuse so your setup looks like a definite option. Any issues using the 7.5amp fuse and not a 10-30amp? Thanks a ton!
You don't need to find/tap an existing fuse for #2 (always on). That can go straight to the battery (with an inline fuse that you add).
Also, you should not be using 10amp to 30amp fuses for a dash camera. That is much, MUCH more amperage/current draw than any dash camera will ever need, and a fuse of that size will not protect the wiring.
I wouldn't go higher than 5amp for a dash cam, and you can likely get away with 2amp. Best to check your dash cam's specs and figure out what it actually needs.
- Thread starter
- #14
I was going to use little adhesive barrel like cable holders to attach to edge of windshield along a pillar. Trim is too tight to wedge behind. Not entirely sure how I’m going to get the rear cam cable all the way back yet though
That trim is not too tight. That's exactly where I pushed wiring for my own dash camera, radar detector, and remote starter. Did not even need to take the trim off - just gently pry it back and push the wiring in. Those adhesive cable ties won't hold long-term.
- Thread starter
- #16
Thanks this is what I’m using and I could’ve swore somewhere it stated to use 10-30amp fuses.
Dash Cam Hardwire Kit, Miofive 11.5ft Micro USB Hard Wire Kit for Dashcam Converts 12V-24V to 5V/2.4A w/Fuse Kit and Installation Tool, Enables Parking Mode, Low Voltage Protection for Dash Cameras https://a.co/d/97Ooy3Y
- Thread starter
- #17
I was going off a dashcam/radar installer instructions for the 10-30amp fuse
How to Hardwire a Dash Cam | Installation Guide | BlackboxMyCar
Hardwiring your dash cam to the vehicle’s fuse box is one of the most common installation methods to power on your dash cam when the vehicle is off, thus offering parking mode recording (for dash cams that come with parking mode recording feature).
www.blackboxmycar.com
elcie200
SILVER Star
No problems so far. The add a fuse has 2 slots. As I understand it, you could run different size fuses as long as the underlying wiring is able to handle it. IIRC the dashcam came with 5A fuse, so I assumed it would be ok.
Why not use the fuse box on the passenger side?
I chose it because you won’t be able to put the cover of the box back on after you have tapped the fuses and the passenger side already has a larger, external panel outside of the fuse box that offers some protection.
I used the 9 and 12 location on that fuse box.
Both were unused in my LC and I think the 9 is always powered and the 12 is only powered when the engine is on. Though I may have these swapped - it would be easy to test this when you are installing. Just don’t plug one in at first and see if you are getting power.
I chose it because you won’t be able to put the cover of the box back on after you have tapped the fuses and the passenger side already has a larger, external panel outside of the fuse box that offers some protection.
I used the 9 and 12 location on that fuse box.
Both were unused in my LC and I think the 9 is always powered and the 12 is only powered when the engine is on. Though I may have these swapped - it would be easy to test this when you are installing. Just don’t plug one in at first and see if you are getting power.
- Thread starter
- #20
So the 7.5A tow fuse is the continuous fuse? Thanks again
